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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Real Raptors

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
 
 
velcomrob
Heliman
Location: Toronto, Ontario

time to take everythying apart and measure the runout :P

I didnt know this was the same for nitro engines to. My Caliber 30 didnt mention anything about checking runouts.
07-02-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

i'm finally ready to take my gasser out. any advice for the first flight? should i leave the TJ off for the first gallon or so of gas?
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Foxden
Key Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA

spongebob1871

I should be putting my gasser SE up this weekend as well, I've talked to AGRAV8 and he said to set the governor at 1800 for the first 2 gallons during the breakin, so I'm going to set my TJ Pro for 1800 and go burn some camp fuel and cook some hotdogs.

Clyde
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
JKos
Elite Veteran
Location: Town of California in the state of Maryland

spongebob1871,
Are you going to follow Bill's recommended breakin procedure? If so, have you done your 8-oz idle and full tank at speed with no load (zero pitch) runs?

> I've talked to AGRAV8 and he said to set the governor at 1800 for
> the first 2 gallons during the breakin,

Interesting, I thought Bill recommended no governor for the first gallon.

- John
07-09-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

I do say that jkos, but if there is no hesitating going on, and the engine running good, you can do it...The gov can make the hesitating a bad thing, because its looking at just rpm...The natural reaction is to pull the power back when it does this, unlike the gov, it wants to add more throttle making the situation worse in some cases...I personally don't run one for the first couple of gallons, but some guys are doing it with no problems..
Bill
07-09-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

Another reason, and the most important is sometimes the gasser will need richening during the process of breakend.. running a gov, you want notice that unless it gets to a point of shakes, and such..Its best to catch as quick as you can..
Gosh, I'm losing it as I get older. Thanks John Garsh for reminding me of that on one of your post....

Regards,
Bill
07-09-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Foxden
Key Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA

JKos

I'm just now putting my servo's in and I'm waiting on a few missing parts for the tail bellcrank that should be here tomorrow.

I've read AGRAV8's build and still need to read Bills break in setup, I'm hoping to be ready to start this bird on Saturday if everything shows up tomorrow so I can install the landing gear and tail.

Clyde
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
hrpull
Heliman
Location: St. Louis, Missouri

I'm debating breaking my 231 in with the stock muffler vs. the torpedo. I'm about a week behind the rest of you on my build but I hope to start my break in soon. Anybody using the stock for break-in (to avoid excess break-in heat and blemishes) or just going for it with the torpedo? Is the motor performance much different with the torpedo, especially at break-in?

Thanks,

Heino
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

i'm almost there. just doing some last minute checks before starting it up. can someone please send the ccpm settings for a futaba (9c) radio. i can't seem to get the swash to move as it should. plus should digital servos run all of the time? i can hear the motor running even when i'm not giving any inputs.

jason
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Notes......

Just to clarify a couple of things.....

Governor use during breakin of engine.....

I have stated the headspeed you are wanting to run for the first two gallons is 1800 RPM....this to keep from lugging the engine and building up more heat than you will already have. I have also mentioned that I set my GV-1 for 1800 headspeed.....and toggled between it and the throttle curve to get my points dialed in. I don;t have an optical tachometer to check my headspeeds all the time, so I use the governor to "sing" the desired headspeed and then turn it off and adjust the throttle curve to get it set. I agree with Bill, that the governor should NOT be used full time, as it can mask engine tuning problems and exaggerate a minor problem into a major one. Use it as a guide, but you will be working your throttle / pitch curves during the first gallon or two anyway. I have also stated MY gv-1 is set for 1800, 1900, 2000 headspeeds. THIS IS WITH CARBON MAIN BLADES, do NOT use these numbers with fiberglass or woodies.

Jason: I'm sending you a PM to help with the 9C radio install.

Heino: some guys are using the box muffler for breakin, and then switching to the torpedo. Yes, there is a power difference even at breakin, BUT....you shouldn't be tapping on it before the end of the 2nd gallon.....the 231 will give best power after the 3 gallon mark or so.

OK, hope I cleared up some things.....been saving # 3,000 for a special occaision.......and helping you guys "get 'er done" is special enough !

James
07-09-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Foxden
Key Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA

James, Bill

Thanks for all the help.... the guys I fly with are chomping at the bit to see the gasser, in fact one of the guys already bought the Gasser SE with the Hansen G26 and we start his build on Monday.

James my "custom" engine mount, dial indicator setup will be traveling to his house on Monday to get him started....maybe I should put the picture up in here so others that don't have alot of machine shop goodies can make it happen with just what's available to them at home... Let me see if I remember how to upload to my gallery.



OK that worked, what I did was run down to Home Depot and picked up a small suction mounted hobby vise and secured it to my computer desk, I found a brand new edger blade in the garage (metal) and a fender washer and secured it to the exhaust port with a 5mm bolt. Then I used Tim's (my heli mentor) magnetic dial indicator and dialed in the fan first, I tried for hours to get the required .002 run out on the fan and could only get it to .004 so I made a call to our buddy AGRAV8, we then after trying everything including giving it some LOVIN and BEATIN on it, put the clutch on and tweeked that until I was able to get the clutch at .002, I'm going to include the 2 photo's of where we indicated for that test next.

one side of the clutch.

and the other side.

sorry for the length of the post but I thought it might help some of the guys out there without big workshops and benches with super anvil vises. I've got the build to a point that I'm installing servo's and upper end, and the lower assembly is complete and loctited and I can yank on the pull starter without the clutch grabbing and everything is silky smooth.

Clyde
07-09-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

okay, i got the swash to move in the right direction. and got the pitch set up for +10 and -10. but the swash does not remain level during it's entire range of motion. at +10 it's level, and at -10 the elevator arm is about 5degrees lower than the rest of thw swash plate. is this normal?

jason
07-10-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Nope

I sent you a rather detailed PM on the questions you had concering the swash/pitch setup. Try that out and make the necessary corrections to achieve the "zero" at mid stick.

Do you have the metal A arm on your gasser?? If so, this is adjustable as well.....but we will cross that bridge when we get there.
07-10-2004 Over year old.
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

thanks so much for your help. i followed your directions, and bamm!!!! i'm ready to go now. i have zero degrees at mid-stick, even travel through-out the entire range of motion, and no binding. i have +12 and -12. which is a bit much for me right now, but i can manage. yes, i have the metal "A" arm. and the push-pull conversion. i also have the rudder servo relocation, but i need a new servo arm to make that work. but that can wait. now all that needs to be done is package the electronics. maybe not a coffin setup like yours, but enough to keep everything safe.

thanks again for all of your help. i'll send some photos once i get it airborne.

jason
07-12-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

so i have everything ready to go. gas is mixed, batteries are charged, weather is good. i get to the flying field, and fill the gas tank. then i go to prime the carburetor, and nothing. i check all of the connections, and nothing. all of the connections are tight. my only guess is there is a pressure leak inside the engine. talk about frustrating!!!!! any suggestions?
07-13-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

okay, the wait is over. thanks to everyones help, the gasser runs. at lunch today, i did the break-in run. it was a bit hard to start at first, but once it was running, it was a beast. the throttle seems to be very sensitive, but i will have to work on that. almost three months to get to this point, but now i am here. just scared to fly it now. after work i will try some hovering.

jason
07-14-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Lift
Elite Veteran
Location: Houston, TX

Quote 
I'm debating breaking my 231 in with the stock muffler vs. the torpedo. I'm about a week behind the rest of you on my build but I hope to start my break in soon. Anybody using the stock for break-in (to avoid excess break-in heat and blemishes) or just going for it with the torpedo? Is the motor performance much different with the torpedo, especially at break-in?

Thanks,

Heino

The operating temps of my Pred Gasser with 231 on the first 3 tanks was ~265F. Every tank there after lowered an now I run ~220. This is on the Ozark Camper Fuel with Amsoil "Saber Professional ATP 100:1" at 2ozs/gal(64:1).

From experience I do know that the higher the heat the more likely the Century Speed Torpedo is to bubble up the chrome. If I were to do it over I would run the stock muffler for the first gallon to be safe.
07-14-2004 Over year old.
 
 
hrpull
Heliman
Location: St. Louis, Missouri

Thanks, I think I'll run initially with the stock muffler. I didn't realize how much of a swing in temp there was during break in.

Heino
07-14-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
spongebob1871
Senior Heliman
Location: Yokota Air Base, Japan

can someone please send their pitch and throttle curves for a futaba 9c. i have the basic curve programmed, but i'm having trouble coming up with the idle up curves.

jason
07-15-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
valerko
Veteran
Location: ny,dutches county

Men,heli world suprised me.Parts came for free in 5 days,better than heliproz.

BTW:It's SOOO much work to fix mine after crash.I'm not even thinking of building one.I don't have enough time and patient to do it right.
AGRAV howmuch for having one shipped to your house and you putting it together,when I'm ready?
07-17-2004 Over year old.
 
 
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Mikado Modellhubschrauber . GrandRC . CanoMod

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
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