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Next D . Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
 
 
bernie
Heliman
Location: Haltwhistle, UK

The original plastic elvator "A" arm had a problem and several failed. Century redesigned the "A" arm, made it stronger, and did testing to prove it was stronger, but once ideas get into modelers heads, they stay there. And, yes I have the aluminum "A" arms on my two Predators. It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling.

Now i feel much better, thanks guys

Bernie
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

I have both. The plastic one is on my original Predator that survived a heck of a beating and a metal one on another Predator I bought second hand. I am not convinced the metal one is any better because the actual link on the metal one looks like a standard plastic control link where the "A" shape starts much lower (weaker) then the all plastic "A".

A simple torque load to failure on the swash ring would prove which one is better and how they would fail.

anybody want to fund the test?

Ace
What could be more fun?
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Jon the Rooster
Elite Veteran
Location: Johns Island, Charleston, SC

Quote 
And, yes I have the aluminum "A" arms on my two Predators. It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling.
I Agree!!



and one more thing "DON'T BE AFRAID!"
05-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
FAA
Senior Heliman
Location: MIlford CT

Any updates here folks.

Lets keep this thread alive !
05-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
ppp0
Heliman
Location: Spain

Only one doubt:

On page 5 of the manual, step 4, says that the outer hole of the mixing arms is for 3D style and the inner for FAI. Is this correct? (as I can understand more throw more movility). Also, my mixing arms has two holes on the right side that does not appears reflectec on the manual.

I'm building my predator for AP purpouses and need to get the most stable hover. Please could you tell me how to adjust the mixing arms for that flying style ?



thanks
05-30-2007 Over year old.
 
 
carcraze
Heliman
Location: Ontario Canada

PPP0

Check out this detail it should point you in the direction so you can determine your best settings.

http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3682

Mat
05-30-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

You could flip the link around and put the swash link in the furthermost hole (3 patern) and then the bell mixer in the inner most hole (two patern)but you may not get allot of pitch throw that way.

Ace
What could be more fun?
05-30-2007 Over year old.
 
 
avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

PPPO,

Carcraze's link tells it all. Any of the 1:1 ratio's will give you a smooth stabile ship. I would stay away from ace's tip, he doesn't fly and really doesn't know what he is talking about.

Hey ace, pattern has 2 "T's" and alot has one "L". Come on, you can't work spell check, but your an expert on RC heli's? Give it up will ya.
05-30-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

PPPO

If you look at the options, photography is not one of them. My suggestion will soften the pilot control and give it to the flybar.

Ala, (no matter how you spell it) more stable.

Ace
What could be more fun?
05-30-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Mutt
Veteran
Location: t ca usa

This is a bit off subject but I have to ask. AceBird are you the one and same that had a website that showed how to build cardboard planes??
05-31-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Yep!

Click <homepage>

Ace
What could be more fun?
05-31-2007 Over year old.
 
 
avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

Quote 
If you look at the options, photography is not one of them. My suggestion will soften the pilot control and give it to the flybar.

Right, like it would really say Photography.

Use this setting for FAI...
Use this setting for 3D....
Use this setting for Photography...
Use this setting for hovering with whiffle ball bats...

Quote 
My suggestion will soften the pilot control and give it to the flybar.

That's ace, always looking for something to fly his heli for him, be it an FMA copilot or, in this case, a flybar. Believe it or not ace, some people like their heli's to respond to pilot inputs. That is how it is really done. Not like you who is afraid that an input from you will drive it into the ground and break a bat.
06-01-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Quote 
I'm building my predator for AP purpouses and need to get the most stable hover. Please could you tell me how to adjust the mixing arms for that flying style ?

Ace
What could be more fun?
06-01-2007 Over year old.
 
 
avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

I read his post ace, he said stabile hover not less pilot control. Most people would suggest a longer flybar, heavier paddles, adding weight to the flybar. But in your ususal fashion, you go where no one else does. Just because you crave a heli that will do your flying for you doesn't mean everyone wants that.
Before you make suggestions like this to someone who may not know your act, you should learn how to fly first, maybe then you can come up with a valid suggestion. Until then you should post only about things you know about, like, whiffle ball bats.
06-01-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Neogenesis
Heliman
Location: Findlay, OH

Hey all,

I'm now the proud owner of a second hand, but never fully built or flown Carbon Predator with the Hanson G-26 and muscle pipe. I've come across a little parts snag that I'm hoping someone can help me out with. The former owner had ordered the Century JR metal servo arms, but installed Futaba s9202 servos. Century is currently out of stock on the Futaba metal arms....does anyone have a spare set they would like to part with? I'm just trying to avoid buying $20 worth of plastic arms "I don't ever use Futaba Servos" and then turn around and replace them with a $30 set of metal arms. Or does anyone possibly have some single and double Futaba plastic arms that would work with the Predator that they want to part with?


Thanks,

Neo
10-17-2007 04:48 PM
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

Its best to use the Futaba Large wheels, and rotate them till you get the setup 90 deg without using subtrim...
Bill
10-17-2007 05:12 PM
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Why Bill? One is a mechanical solution and one is an electrical (programming) solution that does exactly the same thing.

Ace
What could be more fun?
10-17-2007 05:37 PM
 
 
Neogenesis
Heliman
Location: Findlay, OH

Well.........that's still the issue. I didn't get any type of wheel or arm with the servos. They came bare with just the screws in the shafts. I just thought I would check and see if anyone had some spares laying around they didn't want. I would of course be willing to buy the Century metal arms if someone had a set they would part with. Like I sais before...just trying to avoid buying a plastic set I'll never use again and then turn around and buy a metal set when they become available.


Neo
10-17-2007 08:28 PM
 
 
rcadd1ct
Elite Veteran
Location: Richardson, Texas

I have three of the big futaba plastic wheels Bill was talking about.

PM me an address and I will get them to ya.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!
10-18-2007 03:08 AM
 
 
Neogenesis
Heliman
Location: Findlay, OH

awesome....thanks....PM sent.
10-18-2007 03:39 AM
 
 
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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
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