RunRyder - Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06

lovemov
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Louis, MO

Thanks a lot AGRAV8!
This is really helpful. So looks like to online version here

http://www.centuryheli.com/support/...df?currentid=89

on page 12 is about right.

There are still 3 holes on the bung, too bad, guess I just turn an angle to prevent from leaking...

Curiously, just fit those metal pipes into the tank, doesn't leak at all? And one (the second) needs to be installed "from inside toward outside"? sounds a difficult work

09-18-2005 Over year old.

rcadd1ct
Elite Veteran
Location: Richardson, Texas

Get a 2 ft section of small diameter solid core wire.

In the middle tie a nut onto the wire.

Slide the fuel fittings on one side of the nut.

Use needle nose pliers to snake the wire (fuel fitting side) through the hole in the tank ( from the inside) making sure that the other end of the wire does not go into the tank.

Chase the wire and fitting through the hole in the tank. Install keeper nut on the fitting.

Push the wire through the fitting and remove the wire with the end that stayed outside the tank.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

09-18-2005 Over year old.

lovemov
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Louis, MO

Thanks a lot! Tank was done, looks nice (hope works nice too

)

In Step 45 Starting Shaft and Hex Coupler.

Does Starting Shaft and Hex Coupler required if I plan to pull start only? Can I just leave it without installation?
Thanks.

09-19-2005 Over year old.

AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Put it in

you never know.....I've had a rope mechanism break before......and you'll be PISSED if it ruins your day of flying !

09-19-2005 Over year old.

lovemov
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Louis, MO

OK,

Now back to the fuel tank again. I really don't understand this, I know it's stupid question...how do I fill up the tank in the future? 2 will be connected to the engine, 1 is air, cover is very tight(no way to take out by hand now)...

09-19-2005 Over year old.

flydoc
Heliman
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

Does anybody have a Century service bulletin link for the Gas Predator?

10-10-2005 Over year old.

avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

Hi Lovemov

Alot of guys just use a "T" fitting in the clunk line for fueling. It is blocked off while flying with a plug of your choice. I've seen anything from a bolt to an old ball link. There are 3 way manual valves available for the same purpose. I've also seen in line fuel filters with a tap in the side for refueling.

Hope this helps

10-18-2005 Over year old.

JKos
Elite Veteran
Location: City of California in the state of Maryland

> how do I fill up the tank in the future?

Pull the line off of the return outlet on the carb. Works like a charm. Keep your plumbing as simple as possible.

- John

Protos -- Logo 10

10-18-2005 Over year old.

1275mini
Veteran
Location: Wirral North West U.K.

11-06-2005 Over year old.

AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

QUOTE>>>

There are NO HOLES OR PIPES run thru the bung.

END QUOTE>>>

Why not James … seriously. I have done this on every gasoline plane I have ever built and one is 5 years old and still flying. What is with this drilling holes in a perfectly good tank and installing those fancy fittings that are bound to leak because the thin wall of the tank is not strong enough to support the stress of the bulk head nuts? Not to mention the yanks and tugs that occur during refueling.

Lovemov,

Notice the poor mans coupling in the return line. Cut the hose and insert a short piece of brass tubing in one end half way and cinch it with a cable tie. Then slip the other end back into the cut tube. This is way easier to separate then pulling the hose off the plastic barbs of the carb and you don’t have to worry about creating air leaks or breaking the barbs off.

javascript: view('/helicopter/gallery/30801/Mods0003.jpg')
Ace

11-09-2005 Over year old.

AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

11-09-2005 Over year old.

AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

OK, Ace

in the ORIGINAL fuel tank supplies with the gassers, the bung itself and the throat of the fuel tank was different...ie it was a glow predator tank. The stopper probably would not have lasted long had the fuel tubes been inserted in it. Also note that all the gassers I have owned over the years had fittings thru the tank walls, not run thru the bung. The one exception to that didn't hold up very well at all, on an old xcell gasser (and tank manufacturer unknown).

I have not tried the new tank and bung system to see how well it works or durability. MY gassers still have the original style in them. I KNOW how long and well that seup works, and I hesitate suggesting a different way without my OWN empirical testing supporting that suggestion.

Keep us informed on how well it holds up. I'm at 19 months pn mine.

11-10-2005 Over year old.

AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

QUOTE>>>

OK, Ace
in the ORIGINAL fuel tank supplies with the gassers, the bung itself and the throat of the fuel tank was different...ie it was a glow predator tank. The stopper probably would not have lasted long had the fuel tubes been inserted in it. Also note that all the gassers I have owned over the years had fittings thru the tank walls, not run thru the bung. The one exception to that didn't hold up very well at all, on an old xcell gasser (and tank manufacturer unknown).

I have not tried the new tank and bung system to see how well it works or durability. MY gassers still have the original style in them. I KNOW how long and well that seup works, and I hesitate suggesting a different way without my OWN empirical testing supporting that suggestion.

Keep us informed on how well it holds up. I'm at 19 months pn mine.

END QUOTE>>>

The blow molded polypropylene tanks are not an issue. They will stand up to gas or glow equally well. The bung must be silicone for glow and neoprene for gas. To the best of my knowledge these two options have always been available. There used to be an issue with one tank manufacturer with the bung hole splitting at the seam or poor molding in general around the neck, but I haven’t seen that in a long while.

There is no doubt James, you are a well seasoned veteran when it comes to helicopter building and piloting. I don’t suspect you would ever have a problem with your fuel tank. What concerns me is the learning curve for the greenhorn. Someone who has never drilled a polypropylene tank before is bound to screw it up, at least one out of three holes. He is going to find it difficult to assemble the fittings into the tank and more than likely will over-tighten the bulkhead nuts which will cause a leak and have no good way to repair it. Now the kicker is those little tiny hairs from drilling poly which are bound to be un-noticed inside the tank. They turn invisible when wetted with fuel. Three to six months down the road they wreak havoc in the carburetor. And there starts a hair pulling, needle twisting, part swapping endeavor before the problem gets solved or the person gives up and shelves the engine. This will never happen to you.

In my opinion as a seasoned Newbie using the tank bung to enter and exit the tank is the safest way to proceed. The bung hole is by far the strongest section of the tank and the parts are easily replaced if a leak does occur. Typically leaks occur from stripping out the plastic nut which expands the bung. What is the hardest part? … bending the tubing. So instead of supplying those fancy bent, threaded and chrome plated tubes the kit suppliers could just supply the standard brass pre-bent tubes and save some money.

If anyone needs a very simple technique on how to bend brass tubing without putting a kink in it let me know? I will take some pics and talk you through it. All that is required is a vice and a couple of pieces of plywood.

Ace

11-10-2005 Over year old.

AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Agreed

one of the reasons for not using the bung......it would split the tank mouth when tightened too firmly in the original tank design. That weakness was discovered later on, and the tank esign/vendor was changed. Note: there was NO difference between the glow and gasser fuel tank/bung. It was black. NOW, the black is for glow fuwl use, and the white is for gasser use.

Maybe I need to change over to a new fuel tank.....get out of the "dark ages" and keep current on the latest stuff..........hmmmmmmm Christmas IS coming soon (yes, even in Texas)

11-11-2005 Over year old.

Mr.Burns
Heliman
Location: Regina , Sask. Canada

Video?

Been doing lots of research lately on the CF Predator SE. Ever since I started gasser in plankers, the gas chopper idea has been burning the back of my brain.

One thing I have not come accross, is videos fo someone tearing up, or even midly cranking on their Predator.

Either I just missed them, or my search skills are lacking

I would be greatful if someone could point me towards where I might find such videos!

Thanx in advance....

Burns

12-18-2005 Over year old.

victor55ca
Senior Heliman
Location: Vancouver BC

Main Gear to Inner Gear play (Pred Carbon Gasser)

Should there be any play between the Main and Inner Gear. I have a package of 3 (0.2 x 15ID x 18OD) shims. Should I add these shims until the play is at a minimum? My up and down play is about 0.8mm.

Thanks
Vince

02-15-2006 Over year old.

AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

yes

it NEEDS to float so the sprague bearing can function properly. Your .8mm is fine.

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

02-15-2006 Over year old.

AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

UPDATE Feb '06

Some NEEDED insights for old AND new builders...a few tips, tricks, and product updates for you guys N gals.....first some TIPS !

Ever had HELL getting those doubled frame spacers that go from the lower rear frames to the upper to stay inline or in position whilst putting the bolt thru?? Geez, if I had a buck for every drop (and not ALWAYS on the floor)

in the last two years....especially arount the rear X brace....

THICK SUPER GLUE and CA accelerant (zip kicker) !

heres the trick......
MAKE SURE you have the correct spacers together...and push the bolt thru them while outside the machine...a dab of glue on the "joint" between them and hit it with the zip kicker. WELLA !!! they STAY together while assembling. Remove the bolt, a touch of blue locktite 242 on the tip of the bolt threads...and put 'em in.

I'm sure I have mentioned it before....I cut the "bar" on the front X brace (it is the horizontal bar JUST UNDER the front of the engine fan shroud). Makes it REALLY easy to seperate the upper/lower frames from the engine/clutch/landing gear plate. This makes sense when you take it apart (as I just did last night) to install the HD clutch setup. No BUSINESS completely taking your machine apart any further than needed. Here is what I did:

Remove tail boom (optional, I've done it attached too)
To remove the rear lower frames from the upper frames, I pull the spark plug OUT, take out the 6 bolts on top (long ones), then I "rotate back" the rear X brace about 45 degrees. I feed the spark plug wire thru the X brace and left lower so it stays on the engine.

remove the fuel lines to the carb.
disconnect stator gator sensor wires from the engine.
remove the 4 bolts holding the rear lowers to the baseplate (landing gear plate). It comes off as a three piece unit (the X brace still has 2 bolts left in, remember?) Set that aside.

Remove the LARGE bolts (1 each side) from front lower frame that connects to the engine side.
Remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) that connect the lower front frames to the base plate.

NOW, IF YOU HAVE MODIFIED YOUR FRONT X ALREADY........LIFT UP 3/4 INCHES (to clear the clutch), slide it forward...it ALL COMES OFF, and you DON'T LOSE the gear mesh/frame alignment either !

If you have NOT modified it....(YET) then remove the mainshaft, autohub etc...the bolts that hold the clutch stack in position, AND the bolts that hold the lower mainshaft bearing block (don't forget the two from the underside). Remove the bolts that go thru the servo frames/spacers (2 each side) that hold the upper frames to the servo frames. The upper frames now come off. Don't forget to unplug the tail servo and elevator servo. Now remove the lower frames from the baseplate. See, you WISH you had done the mod, huh !

WHAT DOES THAT LEAVE?? the engine INTACT, the baseplate, AND the landing gear. Muffler included !
IF it is a torpedo, not the "box" then you don't need to remove it for this next step.....NOR the carberator, etc.

I installed the new HD clutch system.....with the muffler, carb and baseplate still attached. The landing gear sat on the workbench and watched me pull the clutch (4 bolts), fan shroud (3 bolts), the bolt that holds the fan hub onto the engine crankshaft, remove the fan (a fan puller was used)and take the fan off of the clutch riser.

Following the very detailed instructions provided with the HD clutch upgrade kit (BAAAAAAA ! There wern't any, but...well...I didn't NEED no instructions....these are for YOU guys) I reassembled the fan, put a THIN dab of grease onto the crankshaft, re-installed the fan onto the engine and started "dialing for LOVE" on fan runout.
FOLKS, you HAVE TO, GOT TO, ABSOLUTELY MUST DO THIS down to .001 runout. Don't bullschit yourself into thinking I didn't HAVE to last time and it did OK....this clutch/clutch liner is TIGHT tolerance. I mean to tell you..........GET THIS RIGHT now, or you WILL be doing it again BEFORE you fly. Promise.
After the fan rounout is CORRECT, put the clutch on and DO IT AGAIN. Note you can only indicate the SOLID SECTION across the clutch. GOT to be dead nuts on.....I would up at LESS than .001 on the clutch.

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

02-16-2006 Over year old.

rcadd1ct
Elite Veteran
Location: Richardson, Texas

I use hemostats to hold the spacer while I put the screws in.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

02-16-2006 Over year old.

modifyit15
Veteran
Location: wilmington, NC

AGRAV8
I got a problem I set all of my push rod according to the manualand I can achive a -10 degree pitch but my + pitch is way higher that I can read. At -10 there is no way I can get any cyclic movement with out binding, cause the swash is sitting on the Mast stopper

URRRGGG
Help please.

Set up
10sx
231
jr8311 cyclic
no gov. ( got GV-1 but I dont have sensor)
woodies
type of flying all kinds, then set for camera ship.

Heli DOC

03-27-2006 Over year old.

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06

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