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HeliProz . ZoomsHobbies . HeliHobby

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Because......

you got yours from Ricks, and those kits have 115 MM rotortech tail blades in them. No grinding on 115 and 120 MM rotortechs.
04-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
JKos
Elite Veteran
Location: Town of California in the state of Maryland

I thought it may be appropriate to put a link to another thread concerning a change to the PG kits: http://runryder.com/helicopter/t171210p1/

Bottom line from this thread is that the cupped thrust bearing spacer has been replaced by shims.

- John

Protos -- Logo 14 -- Logo 10
04-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
gamegeek
Senior Heliman
Location: Richmond, Kentucky

Woohoo, no grinding!!!

I have the 115s!! It was going to break my heart to put a grinder to those purty blades.


Chris

Predator Gasser SE
Zenoah 231
Futaba 9c Super
Realflight G3
04-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
jetpilot
Heliman
Location: Montreal,Canada

Carbon extreme

Hello


Did anyone try the upgrade carbon kit from carbon extreme? look nice!
05-29-2005 Over year old.
 
 
blade77
Heliman
Location: out there

Radio set up

Hi Guys,
Can any one see any problems with this proposed set up in a carbon gaser:-
Futaba 9c super with 149dp rx.
Futaba GV-1 with stator gator sensor.
GY601 with S9251 servo.
jr 8311s X 3 on cyclic.
jr 8417 on throttle.
and any advice on other equipment required - battery , switch etc is appreciated.

Thought I would ask before I buy
07-21-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Looks good !

Airtronics large servo wheels for the 8311's

MINIMUM 2200 Li-ion pack....remember, 30 minutes is easily done with a tank of fuel....when shooting auto's, it CAN go as long as an hour....I run a pair of 2200 li-ions on a custom duralite 5.1V regulator myself...if 1 pack fails, the other can handle it.

tail servo relocation kit.

Whip antenna...I prefer revolution myself.

you will want 720 MM mains on your gasser. I suggest you email Ricks (ron@ronlund.com) and ask for the AGRAV8 special package they have.

231 engine is a great choice. Oh, and the new style torpedo mufflers are in stock @ Ricks as well.

Any other ???'s feel free to shoot me a PM.

James
07-22-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Hi all,

I am new to helis. So new, I haven’t even flown one yet but my first choice is the Predator gasser! That being said, there are probably a lot of you that don’t want to hear what I am going to say about mating the fan to the engine shaft. James, please don’t take offense at this.

First of all the purpose of a tapered hub connection is to force concentricity of the two parts and remove any play between a shaft and it’s mating hub regardless of what that hub is used for. That means that you cannot influence the “machined in” concentricity of the mating parts with a hammer blow. There can be only two reasons why a tapered hub connection will yield an off center TIR (total indicator run out). The first is machining tolerance of the mating pieces. Unfortunately, in this case one part is made by Century and the other is made by Zenoah and it is unlikely that either will admit that their parts are out of tolerance. So if this is the case, you are pretty much burned.
So that brings us to the second reason why you could get out of spec TIR, that being assembly technique. What I recommend with any taper loc hub for any purpose is to clean both parts immaculately. This removes dirt and in some cases left over machining chips that will kick the hub off center. Next add what they call “never seize” which is a grease with either a copper, carbon, or silicone additive to the shaft or hub (super lube will also work).
Now you are going to ring the two together. This is called lapping, And what is does is remove all the high spots from the shaft or hub. In this case you can engage the pull starter and ring the fan hub on in the opposite direction. Start with light pressure and increase as you keep twisting in the same direction. Now remove the hub and clean both again immaculately. You should see a burnishing shine on both the shaft and the hub. If both tapers were exactly the same you would see the shine for the whole length of the taper and that means you got a beauty. The likely hood is it will only go half way. It doesn’t take much for this to happen. If you don’t put the hub on tight enough it is possible to cock the hub because of the unmatched tapers with a hammer blow. However, as you continue tightening it will go back to where it was.
So you are now ready to assemble for real. Use the same never seize as before (it makes it easier to remove the hub) and again ring the hub (fan) on to the shaft until you have evenly coated the surfaces with grease or oil. All that is left is tightening the screw and it must be tight. I think Century wants you to put locktite on the threads. I’ll just say this. If the screw comes loose on a taper lock draw bolt it wasn’t tight enough to begin with. On most taper lock hubs there are multiple screws and in those cases it is extremely important to tighten the screws evenly like the head bolts on a manifold, or the hub could cock and then the screws will come loose in time.

The second issue I have with James’s technique is the jack bolts. Although it will tend to remove the fan, Zenoah advises against this technique. The reason is it puts a concentrated load on the crank connections which are press fit! Jacking the four bolts unevenly can bend the crank and very few people will take the initiative to jack two of the opposing bolts at the same time to prevent this from happening. For obvious reasons, a wheel puller is recommended but in a pinch you can use a impact tool similar to a dent puller that will thread into the draw screw hole to tap on the end of the crank shaft while supporting the fan hub all around. Some people would just pound on the head of the loosened screw with a brass drift. It does the same thing, but if you are over zealous with either method you will destroy the fan.

James, please accept my apologies if I have offended you. Your build thread was excellent except for the two issues I have just stated. I wished I had seen earlier that RunRyder had a separate topic for Century. The other forum I browse is not to active on the Century topic.

For all those that are thinking of building a Predator Gasser, don’t hesitate, it is an awesome machine. Someday I hope to be able to fly it.

Ace
08-19-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

I like what you had to say myself Ace...This is a true machinest way to do it
Bill
08-19-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

I see your points....

and, with having access to some equipment and technique I'm sure that the majority of guys that have used this thread for fan install/runout checks would have been inclined to do it that way.....

I certainly do NOT take any offense......and there are good machinist practices in your suggestion. I will bring to light the "reality" of the issue, though......most of the folks that have built up do not have the tools, tecniques, or experience to do it that way.....for most, they had to buy or borrow a dial indicator. Quite a few of them I actually coached with PM's and phone calls on how to read a dial. I tried to make it as simple and effective for the mass hobbiest to get a result that would enable them to move on with the build and have success with their heli when completed.

Actually, I'm very appreciative of your taking the time to read this thread and make positive, constructive suggestions. I'm not sure what other forums you surf.......but with people like Billme, Jkos, Steve H and a host of others, I think you will find the best support group for the P-gassers here on RR.

Glad you found us. Let me know if there are any other ???'s I can help you with on your build/setup.

James

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0
08-20-2005 Over year old.
 
 
woodscra
Senior Heliman
Location: Texas

tail servo

Agrav:
Why do you recommend the tail servo relocation kit and what is the part #?

Are there any issues/mods needed if using a Hanson 3D 26?

Thanks

Craig
09-10-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

here ya go

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/me...t_Code=CNHC6002

protects tail servo from impact damage

easier (to me) to set up.
09-10-2005 Over year old.
 
 
woodscra
Senior Heliman
Location: Texas

Thanks Agrav

Craig
09-10-2005 Over year old.
 
 
crazzyjoe
Senior Heliman
Location: NewLowell, Ontario, Canada

Hi, I have a gasser se and i was just woundering how is the servo protected better up front? I'm not sure what to think who says up front and who says leave it on the boom.
09-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

up front

you have frames with solid spacers immediately in the area of the servo location up front. The servo is exposed to potential impact on the tailboom. Also, the linkage at the rear of the frames adds in ratio's to get that tail control just the way you like it...
09-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
waterskier
Senior Heliman
Location: Crosby, Texas

Overhaul time?

Hello all-
I have a Predator Gasser with Hansen g-26 that I use for aerial photos. my question is the life of the bearings, gears, and other wareable parts. My chopper has 17.2 hr. but has only been used for AP (acro or hard flying) but is has been used quite a bit in salt air environment. I have been thinking about a tear down and overhaul, but don't exactly know what part watch, and how to estimate the remaining useful life. As a photo ship, I would much rather do preventive maintenance that crash repair!!!

Greg

Greg
09-16-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

I spent a couple of hours last night trying to install the fan on my Pred and get the run out to specs. No matter what I tried, as I tightened the bolt that holds the fan it would return to about .004" run out. (unacceptable)
I tried both methods described by Agrav8 and AceBird without success. I lapped the fan to the tapered shaft as AceBird suggested. The tapers were good, no high spots, good contact all around. Still .004 . I tried turning the fan to different points, no good. I tried tapping with a wooden persuader, no good, still .004 .
I couldn't understand it. While doing all of this I did notice that when spinning the fan on the crankshaft, there was no runout. It seems the fan was machined perfectly, way to go Century. Then I decided to check the taper of the crankshaft on the 231, ureka!, here is where the problem was. The widest part on the crank taper had .001 runout and the top or narrowest part of the taper had .002 runout. Both high spots were on the same side of the taper.
Now my question is, did I get a crank that was out of tolerance or is this the norm for Zenoah?
I put a small .001 plastic shim on the low side and was able to get the runout at the top of the fan to slightly more than .001. I'm not sure if I am going to run it this way, I don't know what problems may develope.
Any input would be appreciated.
09-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

tolerances

yes, it is quite possible the crank has that much in it. Your shim will be OK, if there were to become a problem, the fan would be slipping.....and I'm sure you know how to tell when that is happening.

Install the clutch itself, and work out the runout with the clutch location (4 holes gives you 4 potential places to bolt up to....)

Indicate on the SOLID part of the clutch OD, not the shoe area.

Continue with your buildup. Your OK from there. .002 is fine. Zero is the goal, but you understand what we are looking for.
09-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
avator
Veteran
Location: New Jersey

AGRAV8

Thanks for the help.
I was concerned that the heat from the crank might affect the plastic shim I used. I didn't have any .001 metal shim material so I used plastic. I was also concerned that the metal shim on a tapered shaft connection might create some undesireable stresses or other problems.
What do ya think?
09-17-2005 Over year old.
 
 
lovemov
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Louis, MO

Wow, this is a great thread, just saw it...

I'm now having problem setup the fuel tank. I think I have more components than I need (such as 2 copper pipe?). The bad thing is, the manual wiyh the kit is different from the one found on the web, and both are unclear for installing it.

Did a search, and no luck, looks like noboay have problem setting up the tank. Any instruction or photos will be greatly help. Thanks!
09-18-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AGRAV8
rrProfessor
Location: Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

Well, ain't you lucky......

Fuel fitings:

Your kit now comes with a fitting set that has the two copper pipes as you noted. THEY ARE NOT USED FOR GASSERS, only glow machines. The tank is common to both types of machines. You use the BUNG (stopper) and the screw assembly. There are NO HOLES OR PIPES run thru the bung.

You should have additional fittings in your kit. One is a flat based (blind) fitting, it requires a hole be drilled in the top of the fuel tank, towards the rear. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered, but plan ahead....you don't want it hitting servo's either. That is the VENT or atmosphere line....it should have small diameter tygon attached to it and this should make several loops around frame standoffs, etc.ABOVE the level of the fuel tank. (anti-siphon)

Another has a fuel "tit" on each end, with threads in the middle. This is the clunk line....drill a hole thru the side of the fuel tank ABOVE the center seam towards the front 1/3 on the bung side of the tank. This has the pickup line inside the tank attached on the inside, and the outside is attached to the FUEL IN nipple of the carb. I suggest a STENS type fuel clunk (Ricks has them) inside the tank.

Final fitting looks like the first one we talked about...a blind fitting. It needs a hole drilled on the BACK 1/3 of the tank side that the bung is on....this line connects to the RETURN FROM CARB fitting on the carb itself (the CLOSEST FITTING TO THE PRIMER BULB).

Use TYGON fuel line. Ricks has both sizes you need. The SMALLEST size attaches to the CLUNK AND ITS FITTING inside the tank, and is also used for the VENT line. The MEDUIM line runs from the tank to both nipples on the carb. EXCEPTION: When runing a G-26, the medium size line is used on the clunk to tank wall.

Use a drill bit that is a LITTLE too small for the threads on the fittings to pass thru....in other words, make the fittings thread in to the tank wall.

TIP:

I use the smallest tygon as a "pull line" to bring the fittings thru the tank and to the wall. You'll soon see what I mean.

Hope this helps.

James
09-18-2005 Over year old.
 
 
14 pages [ <<    <     8      9     ( 10 )     11      12     NEXT    >> ]57906 viewsPOST REPLY
Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Century Gasser Buildup-UPDATED Feb '06
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