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Antiques or Out of Business > Looking for Kalt Enforcer info !
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

I have a new student with what appears to be a never flown but stored nearly to death Kalt Enforcer with an Enya ringed 35 SS, nearly all plastic balls on the control system and swashplate and 8mm blade flex plate type main blade holders, no mains, no manual, metal coated plastic cone starting system. He WANTS to set up and fly her. It looks like she took about 500mm or so mains. Even though I've worked on Kalts, I need advise or direction on the following:

1. Parts allocation source including manual
2. Suggestions for switching out blade grips or head to allow more standard blades and insulate my client from Concept 30DX foamies that I believe are our only option.
3. Possible carbon fiber blades designed for electric heli with 8mm maximum root thickness.

This one is a bit too old for me to guess my way through and I would appreciate any help from the Senior Kalt fans with more time than I invested in these birds.

"I keep my feathers numbered for just such an occasion"- credit, Leghorn Foghorn, est.1946
01-15-2004 Over year old.
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MHT Magazine
Heliman
Location: waukesha county, wi

Parts source:
Copter Shop 262.534.3276 after 5 CST. Owner's name is Steve.


MHTjef
01-15-2004 Over year old.
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MJA
Key Veteran
Location: Cumbria-UK

I think you should be able to use 53cm blades with what you have now
but i could be wrong about that.I'm sure i used to have an older version of the Enforcer with shorter boom and flapping grip head and used 53cm NHP's

To use 55cm blades you'd need to either change the boom , tail drive for the slightly longer version used for the Enfrocer "S" or Baron30
Also the tail pitch wire would have to be longer too if it is std setup and isn't a rear servo kit

Or change the rotorhead for a single blade axle type head from the Baron30.The 2 fixed length links from the old flapping grip head will be no good for Baron30 head,the others should be able to adjust up
but ideally the set from the Baron30 would be better.

The earlier (non S) heads also had 2 piece (shell halves) type blade grips with a narrower possible blade root thickness.The one piece grips from the S or Baron30's will fit as a direct replacement but i think the outside diameters of the bearings in the blade grips may be different.



Martin
01-16-2004 Over year old.
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

Thanks Footaba

That is the kind of data that I need to get around this problem. I gotta tell you though that this boom is really short and I doubt if I can even get away with even 515mm blades let alone 530mm or 550mm without a substantial increase in boom length. Just 500mm is already well into the the first 1/2 of the tail disc radius! Even though I despise NHP blades because of their historical incompleteness, I will be looking into their availability as an alternative to the foamies from Kyosho. However, presently I'm looking for manual for any of the Enforcer or Baron series to verify your theories on blade grip and boom changes. I believe that getting a set of Baron single piece blade grips will be relatively easy and if they will accept at least 12mm root thiickness, then Helimax 515mm woodies perhaps trimmed at the ends will be an economical choice for now until a boom is needed. I'm checking Ricks' right now for manuals. If I'm lucky I'll find both the Enforcer and a Baron and be able to verify your assertions on bearing similarity or lack thereof.

"I keep my feathers numbered for just such an occasion"- credit, Leghorn Foghorn, est.1946
01-16-2004 Over year old.
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MJA
Key Veteran
Location: Cumbria-UK

It's definately an Enforcer is it and not an MX20 (horrible wooden front tray,very agricultural looking) ,i think they also did a Baron (Space Baron),the European name for the Enforcer in a 20 version but i'm not too sure.Used an OS 20 or later the then powerful OS32SFH :-)

I seem to remember that i could use 53cm blades with the non S (had shorter boom) version of the Space Baron.But it could be that i was using a Genesis rotorhead.The Genesis was an all metal version of the what came to be cheaper version used on a Baron 30 known as an "Alpha 30" head.

All these later rotorheads used the one piece grips as std and were narrower diameter to the blade bolt holes so you could use longer blades.But there was also a later version of the flapping head fitted with one piece grips,this was one of the changes to the Enforcer to make it an "S" version .

The distance between the blade bolt holes on the Baron 30 head is
148mm
The one piece grips use 5x13x4mm grip bearings and a spindle outer
alloy collar
13x10x6mm between the bearings.Also an inner brass collar
8x5x6mm

If thrust races are fitted the two distance collars are ommited and the thrust races take their place.

Martin



Martin
01-16-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Clearance
Veteran
Location: Left Coast Canada

The original Kalt Enforcer suffered from many deficiencies. I have been flying helis for over two decades and I am still flying the Enforcer (ZR) as my main heli. The original Enforcer is not a good choice for the beginner (although it was my first 30 size heli). It can be upgraded to the ZR version (a conversion kit was available) that is more reliable. The original heli suffered from too many problems (I don't want to list them all):- boom strikes, main blades leaving the two part blade grips; excess wear of plastic balls, etc.
You can try to get it airborne, not impossible. I would strongly recommend starting with a Raptor or a Hirobo Evolution if you want to be successful.
Sorry to be so negative. It's just my experience. However, I do have six new kits, two helis that I fly, and 6 tons of parts to keep the fleet going :=)

Good Luck,

Ken
01-16-2004 Over year old.
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

Thanks Ken and Martin

Guys I have never seen a weaker clutch shoe in my life! This bird has a nice heavey metal clutch bell with dual bearings with the only apparent weakness being that they used open bearings instead of sealed ones. Then Kalt desides to cheap out and bolt 2 strips of 1" long x 3/16" spring steel with some weird clutch material lumped on the ends. in is obvious that it ought to work but the shoes are far narrower than the liner and a terrible mismatch for a relatively high quality metal clutch bell. It is further obvious that some sort of wasther must be placed between the clutch shoe / fan hub to isolate ith from the inner bearing race on the clutch bell and to get the shoes to ride in line with the bell.

Clearance, I have a Helimax jig that can be used to change out most of the plastic balls once they start to wear and a composite swashplate for him when he is ready so those items have been addressed. The gent has been advised against putting the money necessary into her to get her flightworthy but he insists on getting her airborn probably because the kit was quite pricy back in the day. This thing about main blades leaving the 2 part main blade grips is truly scary and worth of discussion before I go any further. How were main blades exiting the grips? How did you prevent this? Was it that the fasteners were vibrating loose or what? Do you have 1 piece main blade grips that witll interchange with little or no trouble that you are willing to part with? BTW, she is definitely not an MX20 or an Enforcer S and is equipped with plastic balls galore and a Enya 35SS. I have noted a considerable amount of runout on the starter cone. In fact it is so much that it is disturbing!

"I keep my feathers numbered for just such an occasion"- credit, Leghorn Foghorn, est.1946
01-17-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MJA
Key Veteran
Location: Cumbria-UK

<<

It is further obvious that some sort of wasther must be placed between the clutch shoe / fan hub to isolate ith from the inner bearing race on the clutch bell and to get the shoes to ride in line with the bell.

>>

I used to use a glow plug washer on the crank threads then screw the clutch and hub on,worked well and easy to find.

The clutches were prone to fail,especially if you didn't change the liner regularly and quite expensive for what they were/are
.You have to remember though those machines were first designed by Taya when an OS32SFH was all there was,mainstream 30 motors over 1HP hadn't been invenetd so the clutches usually lasted a bit longer:-)

RE the starter cone,there was an upgrade we could get over here called
a Truspin fan case+hub from Midland Helis.You could buy them with either a hex insert or start rubber adaptor cup to bolt
in the end.

If you front end crashed one of these heli's ,the two upper radio tray supports would often collapse.I think they were designed to be
deliberately weak
The radio tray would come back at the top and rev the engine near flat out,the tray would crunch into the fan shroud and break it and often smash all the fan blades off as well if you were particularly unlucky
It was a heli that used to break a lot of bits,sometimes in only fairly minor arrivals or crashes.
.If you don't replace the cross braces between the 4 U/C legs with alloy pillars, a hard arrival would nearly always break a side frame near the leg attachment,but with the upgrade alloy tie pillars would nearly always break one of the legs (which you had to buy in sets of 4)
The S (ZR) didn't have these alloy tie braces either ,it was an aftermarket upgrade.


I agree with Ken,unless you have a lot of common spares to go at and upgrade the weak areas too, it isn't a good choice for learning with.Also they are quite a compact(small canopy and frame) ,lively machine with a lot of get up and go even in stock form.It's more likely that someone learning
would crash through disorientation in a circuit ,or the heli get away from them in the hover(though not likely with a training U/C) flying an Enforcer
than say with a Shuttle or Raptor(with controls options in detuned settings).


Martin
01-17-2004 Over year old.
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

Abosulutely Footaba!

I used exacty what you did for the clutch spacing. It took 2 of the brasslike glow plug washers to get the clutch shoes to line up in the middle of the bell and just 1 left them a bit deep and I couldn't locate a thicker variety of washer so perfectly suited as the glow washer. It puzzels me that Kalt put so much quality into the well made metal dual bearinged clutch bell and then blow it with unsealed bearings and those goofy clutch shoes! I don't think I've seen quite that poor a mismatch ever. That beautifully machined clutch bell with a set of sealed bearings could match any made today even. They might as well had gone with a decent quality Plastic clutch bell and better quality clutch shoe similar to the Century Hawk rather than half equip her!

I will be taking your advise on the hex start because the OEM cone is grossly out of round for poor manufacturing processes and the shaft appears to be 5mm and will readily accept about any hex adapter. You just know that it will vibrate like hell on start up both during cone engagement and somewhat after disengagement and really tick me off! I am trylu glad that you reminded me of that. In additon, I will measure that clutch I.D. and check for possible retrofits from my private stock and the LHS's stock. Just imagine if the metal shoe for a Kyosho Concept 30 or a Century would drop right in place or even if the entire clutch assembly would similary accept modern alternates without gear mesh problems! Wouldn't that be just great?

I don't have aclear picture of exactly what you mean by the servo tray weakness but I will review it later at the LHS and visualize. I already found that his muffler was incompatible with the long pitch arm. I'll keep you posted with my findings probably later this week.

"I keep my feathers numbered for just such an occasion"- credit, Leghorn Foghorn, est.1946
01-19-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Clearance
Veteran
Location: Left Coast Canada

Just a quick reply: (I suppose to be working).

Replace the clutch with the one piece unit (if you can find one) = bullet proof. I haven't found a replacement for it.

The two piece blade grips will separate so that the bearings, spindle and blade shed from the heli, essentially destroying the heli. It has happened to me three times; then, Kalt introduced their on piece grip. This will happen when the head speed is high (above 1800) and you do a lot of inverted flying (stress).

Yes, I made a jig to drill and tap the plasic balls after I cut them off and replace them with metal ones. The one on the tail pitch change assembly can be replaced. Use a piece of brass tubing from K&S that fits over the slider (cut off the plastic ball). Silver solder a 2 mm cap screw to the short piece of tubing; bolt on metal ball. CA this to slider.

Replace the worn swashplate with a metal one from the Raptor 30. Kalt did make a metal one. It'll last appproximately 30 to 35 hours.

I make a start cone for it. Two ways. Take the original cone and tap it to accept a half inch grub screw and CA it in and use a hex start. Or make an insert (aluminum) with the grub screw. Other commercially available start systems do work, but few are now available.

Kalt made so many changes with the Enforcer. The clutch/bell system and drive system is one of the best now. The ZR main gear is white and never wears out (over 100 hours). The head is very soft and forgiving. Adding a second flapping yoke underneath the yoke will help with reducing the number of boom strikes. Use a rear tail servo mount for a more positive and responsive system. Then again you can add a shaft drive :=)

Ken
01-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
MJA
Key Veteran
Location: Cumbria-UK

The front supports i was talking about connect the transmission case to the upper part of the servo crate,they're made from a brittle type of plastic.

The reason the ballraces aren't sealed is probably
because the I/D and O/D are too near to each other,probably don't exist as sealed with retainer,but they could have used Concept bearings which are 12x18x4 and are sealed.

Your idea to use a Concept clutch is do-able but is it worth it for someone you are helping?
,The heli's lifespan
may be short lived,different if it's yours and you have a lot of spares though,or are a Baron fanatic.

Martin
01-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
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