RunRyder - Finally dorked my R30

rrTV-PHOTO

New HD TV

HOME rrTV-PHOTO GALLERIES MY GALLERY HELP-FAQ

myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 398 ONLINE 46 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER START HERE

1 page

570 views

POST REPLY

JR-Spektrum	.	Gyro Hobbies	.	E-flite
	.		.

Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Finally dorked my R30 - need help!!

bsrchas
Heliman
Location: Upstate NY

After 7 months of learning to fly my R30, I finally had a bad one. Just when I was feeling like I was getting good, I lost it after getting disoriented when it was quite a distance away from me. It hit real hard. Not enough rotating parts left to do the "chicken dance" I have heard about.

BOY, AM I IMPRESSED. After seeing it hit and watching big parts become little & fly away, I thought it would be totalled. After doing a post mortem, the only real damage, aside from the blades obviously, were the skids, a frame stiffening plate, the tailboom and one support, the flybar and the feathering spindle. I checked the main shaft and it wasn't bent. If I had crashed an airplane like I did the R30, it would have taken weeks to repair if it was repairable at all. I had no idea that the R30 was that tough, simple to repair, and inexpensive to repair. I used a $50 crash kit to repair almost everything. It took about 1 1/2 hrs to repair the major rotating part damage.

Here is where I need help though:

1) I bought an ARF so I have never assembled a flybar before. How do you make sure everything is centered on the flybar and how do you balance it?

2) I have heard there are better after-market skid assemblies available. Which one and who has it??

04-01-2002 Over year old.

Jon
Heliman
Location: Huntsville, AL

On the raptor flybar, it has a little notch on it where the setscrews go. There are some other aftermarket skids but you have to drill them, Look at the ones that Quick heli makes and the tuff stut gear I think it is called.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

Twobeers
Key Veteran
Location: Toronto, Canada

Your help

Don't bother balancing the flybar, just make certain that the wire in even between the two sides to within a millimeter. But the paddles on & do the same with them.
I have found that the black tuff struts are virtually indestructable. They flex quite a bit, but don't let that alarm you. They absorb a very hard landing really nicely.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

bsrchas
Heliman
Location: Upstate NY

Jon,

Thanks for the reply. I saw the notches in the flybar but they still don't exactly center the bar in the middle. You can still move the bar a slight amount either way before tightening the set screws. Also, I measured the distance between the paddles and the center bar and got them as close as possible. It still seems that the whole flybar assy. should be balanced before mounting it. I can't figure out how to do that.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

Jon
Heliman
Location: Huntsville, AL

You need to get them in the notches and then pinch the 2 arms as tight as you can and then tighen them. You dont want ANY slop.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

Stet
Elite Veteran
Location: Long Beach CA

For the flybar, measure the distance from the seesaw to the end of the bar. Make both sides exactly the same length and it will be balanced. When you put the paddles on, make sure the flybar extends the same distance into the sight hole on both sides. No further balancing required.

I also recommend the Miniature Tuff Strut II, now available in a 30 size (has shorter skids). I use these on almost all my helis.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

crosby
Heliman
Location: Iowa City, Iowa

Main Shaft

Did you roll your main shaft on glass to check for a wavy bend? It may be subtle, but every time my spindle has been bent, the main shaft has a slight wave to it. Just something to check...

Remember; It always seems darkest before going totally black.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

bsrchas
Heliman
Location: Upstate NY

Crosby,

Thanks for the reply. I rolled in on a smooth formica surface that was tilted just slightly enough to allow the shaft to roll very slowly. I didn't see any evidence that it was bent.

04-01-2002 Over year old.

Bezjak
Heliman
Location: Boca Raton, FL

Bsrchas,

You might want to check your main shaft bearings, especially the top one. Check that they still turn smoothly, all of the way around.

I have had a few boomstrikes which did not ruin the bearings, but anything more severe took out the top bearing. I always replace both the top and bottom bearings as long as I have to go through the hassle of cracking the frames apart.

Later,
Greg

04-02-2002 Over year old.

dwaynet
Senior Heliman
Location: Fairfax, Virginia

the way I balanced my flybar is fairly simple. I used the above recommendation on measuring the distance form center to tip, then took the 2 screws (HMC3-8B) out that hold the flybar on. With the flybar detached, screw back in the 2 screws into the center hub (BK0004). Set up 2 drinking glasses and space them so you can rest the bolts on the rims of the glasses. This will allow you to fine tune it, if you are worried about it being even. It makes it more accurate and easier if you take the mixing arms (HMV740ZZ) off the center hub for this.

Dwayne

04-02-2002 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bsrchas
Heliman
Location: Upstate NY

Bezjak,

Thanks for the input on the bearing. I'll check it.

Dwaynet,

Your suggestion makes sense. I'll feel better balancing it rather than just measuring the distance. Thanks for the help.

04-02-2002 Over year old.

vortechZ230
Elite Veteran
Location: Michigan, U.S.A.

I have a raptor 30 arf too. Call HeliProz, and order the raptor building and setup video, it goes step by step on building this machine, also a lot of valuable hints, neat flying footage, it is two hours long, I think it was well worth the $24.00!!! Joe.

04-03-2002 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

1 page

570 views

POST REPLY

Next D	.	Fast Lad Performance	.	Ace Hobby
	.		.

Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Finally dorked my R30 - need help!!

UPDATE SCREEN PRINT TOPIC

Advertisers

Subscribe to This Topic