RunRyder - Cypher 50 EX Kit Review

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New & Emerging R/C Helicopters > Cypher 50 EX Kit Review

G.Man
rrProfessor
Location: Northants, but soon to be Nicosia, Cyprus

Dunno

I sold it

Mate at club owns it now, will ask him when I see him next...

Heres a Pic of the cypher/macro setup for 140 degree eccpm

Don't Email me as I wont reply - PM Only (spam countermeasures)

06-29-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

That was exactly what I used those screws for , mounting the cooling fan. None came with my kit aswell . And I didn't even have to ask ... Great minds think alike! I shall stick to the 120deg swash as planned .

Did you guys get the M3 x 6 capsrews with the locknuts for the bottom frame that the skids mount on . You need one set bolt and nut for each side where the rest are frame spacers . I'm also missing one frame spacer on the top frame according to the manual . but It doesn't look too critical.

06-29-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

I don't remember having any screws missing, but I did replace the 5 self tappers that hold the tail gear box together with long cap head bolts and nylocks, and I also replaced the four bolts that hold the under cart on with longer ones, because the supplied ones didn't reach the nylon in the nylocks.

07-02-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

It looks like it's time to modify the cooling system on my Cypher.I took it
for a fly yesterday to try it with the throttle jockey, which worked fine, but
every time that I dropped the head speed, the Cypher threw the belt from the fan.Previously I have always had the same headspeed in all flight modes so I had not encountered this problem, but it seems that
when the engine speed is cut rapidly then the problem occurs.

07-07-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Quote
I have 10.5 degrees positive, and full back cyclic, the ball joints on the longer side of the upper mixer arms foul on the head centre block.Does yours do the same thing?

I found exactly the same thing on my cypher when setting it up this weekend . I cannot get more than 10.5 deg. pos. pitch with the same binding problem . I do get 13 deg. negative , more than I need . I'ts actually the inverse of what I can use . Have you found a cure yet ? I'm not gonna grind anything on the plastic hub as I previously mention . You might end up weakening the hub . I am seriously considdering putting on the JR 3D rotor head upgrade on it to solve this . Allthough it's gonna be an expensive route to go , it looks like the only way to fix this poor design . Did the manufacturers not see this problem ?

07-12-2004 Over year old.

New Jedi
Heliman
Location: Chicago

Jan the Man

well...if u get 13 deg. neg pitch then u should adjust your pitch rod longer maybe a couple for triple turn outward to get 13 pos pitch and 10 neg pitch. Then u will be in business with more pos pitch for auto.

07-12-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

Quote
u should adjust your pitch rod longer maybe a couple for triple turn outward to get 13 pos pitch and 10 neg pitch

Unfortunately this is not possible because of the design.The only solution that I can see, is to make a replacement for part no.351003,
which needs to be longer between the flybar carrier and the head by
about 1 cm , or as JAN the MAN said, fit a whole new head.

07-12-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

No No , again a term difference between us , when I said I'm gonna put a 3d head on the cypher , I meant that I'm just gonna replace that part 351003 , the main rotor shaft bit . This part is an exact match for the JR Voyager 50 part and you get an upgrade part for the voyager that increases that distance between the flybar carrier and the hub by about 8 - 10 mm . I dont have the part number yet , but my part has been ordered . It should cost around $50 . I will give you the part number as soon as I get mine . I will post some pics of heli soon , it looks great so far . I did put on a different canopy that realy does the appearance good .

07-13-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

I must admit, I thought that replacing the whole head was a bit drastic.
What canopy have you fitted?

07-13-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Starting problems

Boy have I been having problems with the one-way bearing on the start shaft . I'm on the third bearing and it hasn't even started yet . As soon as torque is applied from the starter the bearing just collapses and runs free . The original bearing setup was as earlier mentioned , the start shaft doesn't go through al the way into the bearing . When I fitted the second bearing I the decided to not press it in as deep as the original one , leaving it about 3mm out before being flush . This helped me to get the shaft in deeper in the bearing . But my engine clurtch allignment was crap and on the second attempt that one went on the second compression stroke . Replaced it with bearing three this time with all the allignment correct and everything spot on ... again second stroke with a half turned out glowplug to lessen the compression .. gone again . So What Now ...

The only reason I could come up with is that the start shaft is to thin at the bearing end and upon the first torque being applied the bearing needles seats into it's final working areas and from then on the there is to much space to the start shaft that stops gripping . I stuck the back end of a 6mm drill bit into the suspect bearing and then it works fine , locks up every time , but when I stick in the original shaft ... free spin and only gripping sometimes .

07-15-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

JAN the MAN,
That sounds familiar.My first bearing failed after two starts.With the replacement bearing, I wanted to leave it sticking out of the clutch because of the short shaft, but had to press the bearing fully home as
it was a loose fit in the clutch until the last couple of millimetres.The second bearing slipped a bit right from the start, but did allow me to start the engine.My conclusion was the same as yours that the shaft was too short and too thin.I measured the supplied shaft at five thou under 6mm.I now have fitted a home made shaft which is a few millimetres longer, and dead on 6mm.This has worked so far, but I have
only had four of five starts since it has been fitted.I don't know, but I suspect that this problem must have been rectified on the later versions
i.e. the Macro and the Voodoo.It might be worth giving Adrian Law a PM, as he now works for Modelbits the U.K. importer of the Voodoo, and might be able to give you the dimentions of its shaft.
I won't fly the Cypher again until I have changed the cooling system to a conventional one, and done something with the head problem.

07-15-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Head problem

I just got the head upgrade and here is the part number ... JR part # 60200 (3D/Hi cyclic rotor hub) round about $50 .

I will fit this tonight and see if it works better . This upgrade will now let you adjust the link to the blade grip aswell as an extra picth setting . All links included and yet another Japanese instruction sheet .

I also made the link between the push-pull bellcranks and the swash adjustable , mainly because one of the supplied plastic links broke and I needed to replace it . It does sturdy up the swash and reduces the turning affect when you try to turn it by hand .

07-15-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

I think that I'll have a crack at making a taller head block, I don't want to spend too much money on what was intended to be a cheap machine.
As I've already decided to modify the cooling system, and have already
made a new starter shaft, I may even look at making a complete new
head.

07-15-2004 Over year old.

nivlek
rrProfessor
Location: Norfolk England

The more that I look at some of the machines little niggles, i.e the starting system and the cooling system, it makes me wonder if it wouldn't have been better to convert it to electric power.

07-15-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Cheap Heli

You are right , it is supposed to be a cheap heli and it's pointless spending too much cash on it . I don't have all the tools and skills unfortunately to try and manufacture my own parts so I'll stick to paying for them . But these are obvious problems that should have been seen during the design and testing of these machines by the manufacturer or did they just through a bunch of parts in a box and ship it off ... they must surely have flown it some time or other ...

But still the amount of mony I spent on the heli so far is still a lot less than what I could buy any other heli kit for locally and I'm sure I'll have a decent flying machine when I'm done with it .

07-15-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

I must say that weight wise this heli is lighter than my Voyager 50 with carbon fibre frames and all .

Electric ... now there is an Idea!

07-15-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Starting problems

Bearing # 4 :

Looks like I might have finaly cracked the starting problems aswell . Instead of making a new Start shat like Nivlek did , I decided to by the good old JR Voyager one rather(JR part # 60471) . The JR part is exactly made to the dimensions of the one Nivlek made himself . Slightly longer and exactly 6mm ousitde diameter . I tested it with a old dodgy bearing and so far It outlasted all the other attemps .

If just fitted a fresh bearing and will test it later to see the results . I decided to again fit the bearing flush as it should be . Just incase , I did buy a spare bearing this time ...

07-16-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

Rotor Head

If started fitting the Jr 3d head upgrade to the Cypher . It's not an exact fit but with some small modifications here and there it will definately work .

You are supplied with a washout guide with the JR head that you now have to use, because of an angle difference, instead of the guide pin running in a slot in the main shaft . The standard washout block does allow you to use this option .

The flybar carrier needs some work done . The Cavity in JR head for the flybar is smaller than the cypher head , but with some slight lathework you should be able to turn down the flybar carrier's center section to fit . It doesn't look to critical . On the other hand you could just buy the JR flybar carrier as a replacement .

I only have one problem though ... Cashflow ... Seems that I've exhausted my Cypher funds for this month so I might have to store it safely till after payday

07-16-2004 Over year old.

heliman
Senior Heliman
Location: Fullerton, CA

It's not my desire to buy an inexpensive (read cheap) heli and spend my time and money to fix the things that the manufacturer should have.

Maybe the heli will get better with time. The Raptor line certainly did.

07-16-2004 Over year old.

Jan the MAN
Heliman
Location: Cape Town , South Africa

I'm getting bored with the whole starting problem ... Any ideas ?

I've e-mailed Cyberheli and asked them for help , lets see what developes there .

07-20-2004 Over year old.

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