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Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies . Model Rectifier Corp

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Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > Fury Basic assembly trouble
 
 
basmntdweller
Senior Heliman
Location: Indianapolis IN

I'm putting my new Fury Basic 60 together. I have ran into three problems so far.
First, when putting the landing gear on the instructions show some shims between the plastic legs and the alum mounting brackets, later showing some additional G10 pieces that bolt between the two gear mounts after the engine is in. My kit doesn't have the shims or the other G10 pieces. I do have a G10 plate that appears to be mounted horizontally, sandwiched between the alum brackets and the plastic legs. I'm guessing this is an update that hasn't made it to the manual yet. Is this correct?
Second, when installing the clutch/drum/pinion/bearing block assembly the manual shows long M3 bolts going thru both bearing blocks. My upper bearing block is tapped therefore I can't use the thru bolts per the manual. I had a couple M3 x 10 shcs and used them but I'm still short a couple bolts. Is this another non-manual update?
Third and last I hope, I have a problem with the fit of the rubber dampers that fit in the fan hub. The drilled holes forming the end of each slot are .250. In the milled portion of the slot the width is only .224. The dampers are .250 wide. I got the dampers in the hub but now that I'm trying install the engine, I can"t get the pins to go in the dampers. I've tried talc and vaseline as suggested but they are just too tight. I'm thinking the slots milled for the dampers are just too narrow not letting the pins in with the rubber. I'm thinking of going to a buddy's shop and recut the slots for a better fit. Let me know if this is the wrong thing to do.
Thanks,,,basmntdweller
03-30-2002 Over year old.
 
 
basmntdweller
Senior Heliman
Location: Indianapolis IN

I'll try some soap to get it in. I agree that the dampers need to be a tight fit but I would think something like .005 or .010 rather than .025-.030. If I can't get it in, I'll continue on, just leaving the engine out till I can check it out further.
Thanks,,,basmntdweller


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!
03-30-2002 Over year old.
 
 
basmntdweller
Senior Heliman
Location: Indianapolis IN

Thant's where I bought it! Unfortunately nobody's there this weekend. I was planning on getting it done this long weekend. I had friday off as well as monday.
I just read the post about CCPM setup. Do I have to have the real big wheels for my futaba servos? I have bunches of the 1 3/8" wheels but I can't even find the 1 3/4" wheels on Futaba or Tower's website.
Thanks,,, basmntdweller


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!
03-30-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Dr.Ben
Elite Veteran
Location: Richmond, VA, USA

You need the large Futaba wheels. Call Futaba's tech support line or Radio South and they can give you the part number to order the wheels. The high torque/quality Futaba digital and analog coreless servos come with those extra large servo wheels. You need those big wheels to provide enough throw for both collective and cyclic pitch.

Read the instructions carefully and follow them to the letter. Aside from the kit improvements that you already know about, those instructions will allow you to build up a trouble free model.

Ben Minor
03-30-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Madcow
Senior Heliman
Location: Mackay, QLD, Australia

Rubber Dampers...

I had a little trouble with the rubber dampeners too. One really small tip with that:
-apply the lubricant of your choice into the rubber dampeners as well as the pins (use a toothpick or allen tool). It's a tight fit and just lubricating the pins can mean the lubricant will be wiped away by the time you've inserted the pins to about half their length.
03-31-2002 Over year old.
 
 
basmntdweller
Senior Heliman
Location: Indianapolis IN

I got the engine fitted okay. I had put the dampers in the hub dry before. This time I put them in with some vaseline and that must have allowed them to move and work around when pushing in the pins. I just finished assmebly of the tail gearbox and I'm gonna call it a night.
I'm not real happy with the fit of the washout hub to the pins. Both pins are off to the same side. I tried to tweak them around but everything I did made them worse. The hub moves smooth but it's stiff. I'm not sure what I'll do there yet but it's going to have to be better than it is!
Thanks,,, basmntdweller


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!
03-31-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Dr.Ben
Elite Veteran
Location: Richmond, VA, USA

I've had the binding you've observed myself before I switched to the metal washout bases. The secret to freeing up the assembly is to pick one pin in the block as a reference, then tweak only the remaining one to achieve alignment. If you CAREFULLY observe when the pins first enter the holes in the washout base, one pin will try to line up, and the other will bump. Adjust only one side. You can also rotate the base 180 degrees about the axis of the mainshaft and pick the better position before tweaking anything. You should be able to get the assembly to work freely with care.

Ben Minor
03-31-2002 Over year old.
 
 
basmntdweller
Senior Heliman
Location: Indianapolis IN

I set up the head this morning on the surface plate. Both pins are straight within .001 but they are off center of the bore in the head block by .010. The holes in the washout block are in line with the bore for the main shaft with in .002 and central with in .002. I'm not sure what I'll do but tweaking the pins isn't going to get it working the way I want.
later,,,basmntdweller


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!
03-31-2002 Over year old.
 
 
gwright
Senior Heliman
Location: Melbourne, Fl

I just built two Fury Extremes and the washout sliders were a bit stiff as you describe. I used a drill bit the same size as the pins and lightly opened up the guide pin slots. I also used a piece of sticcky-back sandpaper about an inch wide and couple inches long, stuck around a drill bit, with the sticky backs stuck to each other, so there's a "flap" off the side, and lightly reamed the inner bore with that. Without snapping the anti-rotation links onto the swash, I can slide the washout base all the way up, let go, and it will fall to the swashplate under it's own weight. The trick is to be very carefull, and "touch" it, then trial fit it,..repeat. From what many others tell me, the plastic washout base takes a bit of "fitting" like this, but does not wear like the metal one, therefore it lasts much longer. Of course you want a helicopter with zero freeplay anywhere,..however,..freedom of movement is FAR MORE important than absence of slop. Everything in the washout assembly is "loaded up" during flight in one direction, so if there is a tick of freeplay somewhere it dissapears the minute the blades spool up. That being said,.. I don't have any slop in mine after carefull fitting,.. but if you err one way or the other, it's better to move very freely than to be totaly devoid of freeplay.
04-01-2002 Over year old.
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Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > Fury Basic assembly trouble
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