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Kyosho Caliber 30 & 60 - Concept - Nexus > C 60 gear mesh??
 
 
Mike99
Veteran
Location: Canal Winchester, OH

How do you know if the gear mesh is good on an old C 60? I pulled one down to replace the mast, and since I did not build it I went ahead and split the frames... Now the gears sound loose when I rotate the head??? Should it be a firm fit between the main gear and the tail drive gear? I had to change the autorotation hub in this one too as the previous owner had machined a solid aluminum insert for the main gear and removed all the bearings... Go figure?

Mike99
03-23-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Rico
Senior Heliman
Location: New-Caledonia(South Pacific)

The gear mesh on C60 with auto hub on main gear can be adjust by using Kyosho shim between the engine mount Bearing and the main gear auto hub , to adjust that you have to mount the engine mount push the mast full down srew the main mast retaining screw than you can evalute the gear mesh by holding the hub with a hand and moving side way the counter with the other hand ,keep in mind that the auto hub system as a natural vertical play and the shim put between the engine mount Bearing and the main gear auto hub will adjust that play .Since you have no visual angle on the gear mesh you have to feel it by and with the above technique .
The reason the last owner have machined an insert in place of the auto unit is probably because the original unit tend to block , and also I remenber to have some contact (due to an excesive wear ) between the main gear housing and the engine mount the solution to this is to upgrade to F3C counter tail auto hub .
Hope it will help :-)))

Rico
03-23-2002 Over year old.
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

C60 standard and champion

there r a couple of types of the orignal c60, the c60 and the c60 champion are the 2 that i own, the differences that com to mind are primarily the driven tail and bearings on the rudder and aileron and elevator and collective bellcranks or equivalent, the driven tail is done by eliminating the 1-wy brg about the lower end of the main shaft in the main gear and replacing it with what u might have mistaken for a machined part but back then it was referred to as an f3c upgrade, further the 2ndry shaft and compainion gear are replaced w/a gear that is fitted with a 1-wy brg to now fix the point of slippage @ the 2ndary shaft instead of the main shaft, so now the maingear and 2ndry are mated and fixed 4 life and the entire mainshaft and 2ndary shaft which is basically is the driveshaft 4 the tail, all turn together and freewheel with the clutchbell!! this is now the basis 4 the sr/sr2/sr2 graphite of today! Dont let anybody look down on your c60 man that bird will take quite a lick and u wont have 2 buy a freakin kit to repair it, there are specific reasons 4 the entire concept lines resistance to damage that r somewhat technical that i will explain @ your request later but rest assure that shes a good one and better than many others, unfortunately they hvnt been very competitive lately since they lost their designer, Im looking forward 4 kyosho becoming more competive and get back in the game like Miniature and TT have recently done.
03-23-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Mike99
Veteran
Location: Canal Winchester, OH

Now I'm confused??

K Kamper... So you are saying I removed the solid aluminum bearing replacement, and set screw, and that was giving me a driven tail? I thought I needed the autorotation hub so I ordered a new one from Tower... arghhh. The gear mesh was great before, but now is sloppy. Also I think I pulled the rotor head "up" as far as possible then screwed in the locking ring under the upper main shaft bearing.

Thanks for the help - I see I am not ready to fly yet.

BTW - is the FAI upgrade (no auto bearing) a good thing. Is it worth going back inside to put back in?

Mike99
03-23-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

I build mine "on a half shell" with the engine mount attached. That way you can seat the mast and set the stopper tight aganst the upper mast bearing. Be sure and screw down the pinion bearing. You can now set all gear lash except for the primary. I found that .005 shim under the engine mount made the primary just right.
03-24-2002 Over year old.
 
 
butch r
Senior Heliman
Location: Alma, Kansas

03-24-2002 Over year old.
 
 
kyoshokamper
Senior Heliman
Location: HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

mike99/c60 fai upgrade

mike if u r into inverted autos or consistent auto practice its well worthit/but remember i dont know that the previous owner didnt do exactly what u said, but it sounds strangely like the fai upgrade is already installed/try turning the tail in both directions/iof it doesnt freewheel and seems locked to the mainshaft then congratulations, uve got the constant drive tail and most likely the stainless steel drive tube and bearings too!!/if not man iv got 2-3 of the standard main gear frames w/the auto brg that ill sell u for very little/but i wouldnt downgrade the heli/that will cost too much
03-24-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Mike99
Veteran
Location: Canal Winchester, OH

Yea - I pulled out all the old parts today from the rebuild and definately had the FAI upgrade. Now I have returned it to the stock setup, but since I have to work on the gear mesh I think I will go back and put it the old way so I have the constant tail. I guess it is OK to let it autorotate on the clutch only...
Thanks for the help.

Mike99
03-25-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

"Autorotate on the clutch only"

Without a one way bearing even if the engine is "off" the clutch will stay engaged because it is being "back driven" and the shoes will not let go. I would build it like a SRII (SRII mast H6131),(solid lower gear frame 6209S and gear H6023) , (autorotation pinion Z6024)/(auto hub Z6023) and (secondary gear Z6022).
03-25-2002 Over year old.
 
 
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Kyosho Caliber 30 & 60 - Concept - Nexus > C 60 gear mesh??
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