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Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme

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Henseleit 3DNT - Rocket - 3DMP > Switch or No Switch?
 
 
duc996bp
Senior Heliman
Location: Preston, UK

Jan recommends not using an on/off switch.

In the instructions he says to use a good quality 2-pole plug.

What's everyone else doing?

I do prefer the ease of an on/off switch however I do understand his reasons for not using one.

John
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Mart
Heliman
Location: Wiltshire,UK

I've got the same dilema as you.
Temporarily, I have a Futaba heavy duty switch in parallel with a Tamiya 'buggy' style battery plug supplying another power feed to the RX. I then have the convenience of the switch, when first switching on etc. and connect the plug just before the canopy.
Therefore if either the plug or the switch play up then I still have power to the RX.
Did look at the redundant batteries supplied by Duralite but they don't appear to fit!

If anyone has a better solution I would be interested also.

Paranoia rules when you spend so much on a heli !!

Martin
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Pascal
Senior Heliman
Location: Paris, France

I use a switch, BUT :
Only the large model from futaba as if you dismount it you will find that it is actually a double switch used in parallel.
And I change it every year.

Actually, even PK plugs are guaranteed only for a given number of connections...
About switches, bear in mind that three 9206 will use up to 3 amps when moved, and that the wires from regular battery packs induce a significant voltage drop at 3 amps...

Pascal
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Mart
Heliman
Location: Wiltshire,UK

Forgot to mention that my plug is obviously the battery side of the switch and has been wired with thicker wire to enable me to fast charge the battery with no issues. fast charge on the Ripmax recommended cells is quoted at 1.7 amps, but the Sanyo datasheet for the cells quotes 2.6amp.
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
mbcopter
Heliman
Location: belgium (aalst)

http://www.heli4you.net/shop/shop.a...tical1:menu=+92

I use a safety switch, 2 wires to reciever, size to go into frame oposite to tailrotorservo



http://www.helitron.de
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Carps
Veteran
Location: Caterham, Surrey, England

I removed my switches after realising how low the battery voltage drops at the receiver when all the servos are on the move. I was experiencing throttle cuts at odd times, and after much deliberation came up with the idea that the GV-1 was going into battery failsafe because of too low a voltage.
I also shortened all the power leads and use to power connections from the battery into the RX. The difference was substantial, and mysterious throttle cuts became a thing of the past !

I replaced the switch with 2mm gold bullet connectors on heavy duty cable going to two heavy duty RX power leads.

I believe it is ridiculous the size of power leads these days - when you consider a full digital servo set-up at full tilt will draw upto (and maybe over) 10 amps, there is no way that crappy wire they give you is able to take that.
10-06-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
duc996bp
Senior Heliman
Location: Preston, UK

How big a wire can you put into one of those futaba connectors?
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Carps
Veteran
Location: Caterham, Surrey, England

Not much bigger than the standard wire, unfortunately. Hence I attached the battery to two connectors, effectively doubling the available load capacity.
10-06-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
duc996bp
Senior Heliman
Location: Preston, UK

Carp

I confused

The +ve and -ve supply has to enter the receiver by one connector?

i.e Small Futaba connector

Do you have any pics?
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Carps
Veteran
Location: Caterham, Surrey, England

The +'ve and -'ve supplies are on a common rail across all connections in the RX - you can plug the power into any hole (oo-errr missus) you like. I just used a spare channel that I didn't need for a servo. You can even plug it into the mixture servo hole on the GV-1 if you run out of holes, or a Y-lead
10-06-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
duc996bp
Senior Heliman
Location: Preston, UK

OK

So you have 2 wires from the +ve and 2 wires from the -ve terminal of the battery, going to 2 futaba connectors?

These then plug into any 2 sockets in the receiver?

10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Carps
Veteran
Location: Caterham, Surrey, England

Correctomundo.
The difference is easily measurable with a voltmeter, even with no load
10-06-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Mart
Heliman
Location: Wiltshire,UK

Carps

I hadn't thought about the added load carrying capability of the two connections but obviously your right. More belt and braces approaches!!

Did you notice that even the 'Heavy duty' wire on the futaba switch is still very thin. I assume you have got some futaba connectors and pliers to make your own connections too. Are they worth the investment??

And yes, must have hit a nerve with you too then, how they can get away with the std connector anymore is questionable. Looks like there really should be a new std of servo/rx connector for higher current operation. Mind you I suppose it would be interesting to look up exactly how much current the wire is supposed to safely carry? They probably get away with it by rating it at a reduced duty cycle if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your help on this and other issues

Hope you get back into the heli's soon!

Martin
10-06-2003 Over year old.
 
 
thierry
Senior Heliman
Location: Paris FRANCE

pk 4 mm
good contact
high quality
reliable
inexpensive
10-22-2003 Over year old.
 
 
vaportrail
Senior Heliman
Location: Anchorage, Alaska

wire gage table

Here is a good site for calculating voltage drop and finding wire ratings. Just one of many sites like this.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


chuck


The real point of terrorism is not the act itself, but our reaction to the act.
10-27-2003 Over year old.
 
 
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Henseleit 3DNT - Rocket - 3DMP > Switch or No Switch?
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