rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 416 ONLINE 19 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ]1449 viewsPOST REPLY
Futaba-RC . A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings

.
.
Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Where to get G231 engine?
 
 
cyber-flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston, MA

I've read few threads here about how good new G231 Zenoah engine is. I'd like to replace G23 on my XCell with the new one but can't find anybody that has this engine in stock. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
09-25-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

Have you tried http://www.ronlund.com/ They show they have them on their site.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186
09-25-2003 Over year old.
 
 
cyber-flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston, MA

I did call Rick's, as well as Horizon and Miniature Aircraft. None of them has the engine in stock.
09-25-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
gyan
Key Veteran
Location: Surrey, BC Canada

I think Bergen has them . Don't they include them with there gasser's now??
09-25-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Obsessive
Key Veteran
Location: 41.73N 71.41W

Perhaps all you are really looking for is a better carburetor?

The wt603 carb (now on the 231) is a bolt-on replacement for the wt167a on the stock 23.

$41.50, shipped, from O'Neill Brothers racing. The carb atomizes fuel much better.

Also, noticed you've been running 93 octane fuel....Should switch to 87, and even perhaps to Coleman fuel. Higher octane fuels have a slower burn rate (which is proper for 4 stroke engines). Our helis are 2 cycle, so we want as much power we can get in as little time as possible.
09-25-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
cyber-flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston, MA

93 to 87

Thanks for the suggestion about fuel. I did switch to 87 octane fuel and new carburator on my current G23 few month ago. I did not notice any considerable power increase but the engine started to run smother and quiter with the new carb. Couple of weeks ago I lost engine's cylinder and piston and now I am considering to upgrade to G231. It's probably possible to put new (G231) cylinder and piston on old (G23) crankcase - does anybody have any ideas?
Regards,
cyber-flyer
09-25-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
cyber-flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston, MA

got G231

I've found g231 at Bergen RC for $300. In case anybody interested I have reminder of G23 (minus cylinder and piston) for sale cheap. The engine had 10 gallons before it ceased and all the remaining parts are in good condition.
09-27-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
gyan
Key Veteran
Location: Surrey, BC Canada

How much do you want for the engine? I might take it if it's affordable.
09-27-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Xcellgasman
Heliman
Location: United Kingdom

Cyber-Flyer

I had a G230, was never really happy with performance and smoothness so I put the 603 carb on it as well. It ran much better and smoother.......for a while......and then I suffered the same fate as you.....i.e piston & barrel trashed!
I just thought I would share this with you, and to reassure you that the G231 is WELL worth getting, far smoother/cooler and more power too!
09-27-2003 Over year old.
 
 
ELOSSAM
Veteran
Location: Es

Xcellgasser, did your broke your G230RC or have only substitute it?
Elossam
09-27-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Xcellgasman
Heliman
Location: United Kingdom

Elossam

I had the G230PUH not the G230RC.
The piston/Barrel AND the crankcase engine mounts are all trashed. There is nothing worth keeping other than the coils. The 'small end' has gone purple with the heat. I still have the crank, but I would not be too sure whether this has sustained any damage too from over heating or over revving. I was running at 80:1 amsoil on the hottest day in history over here and I guess I should have opened up the top end screw a 1/4 turn.....you live and learn.
Regards.
09-27-2003 Over year old.
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

Little oil scares me, Amsoil included!

I don't know about this Amsoil stuff and you guys running it at 80 to 1 and what not. Cyber-Flyer was running Amsoil at 64 to 1 and his engine went to full throttle when his heli went down and it fried itself running at full throttle while it was hung up in the trees.

I've been using Yamalube R2 in my heli almost since the beginning (flight #77 onwards so 934 flights as I have 1010 logged to date) and my engine has never scored the piston and head like you guys have.

I understand that everyone loves Amsoil as it runs on alot less oil than other brands and it seems to work well, engine smoother as you don't have to be so accurate with the needles due to less oil, but it all seems to me that while it may run nicely, it just has alot less tolerance for error. So if you run it at full throttle unloaded or let the engine overheat, or if you have a lean run, its more likely to damage the engine due to the narrow margin for error.

While I've toyed with the idea of using Amsoil as everyone raves on it, experience with Yamalube keeps me hooked on it (close to 1500 flights with it between my heli and airplanes with no wear issues). I think I will wait until one of you guys manages 1000 flights with Amsoil with no engine issues (maybe Billme or some other hard core gasser man) so we can have to experience and proof that while it may be good in the short run, it is also good in the long run.

Keep us posted, and please do let us know if you have to rebuild an engine due to wear while using Amsoil.

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

Rbort,
Short run? where have you been? I've been doing this for 5 years next month....Hanson has change oil 3 times since I started this ...I done this as a personal thing, not to convince everyone that my way is better..If you like what you do, then great, I'm sure I would have been tared, and feathered if there had been problems...Its pretty well proven now, and if one burns up, its probally because someone didn't stay in the guidelines, which is a pretty broad window I might add...I ran 85 :1 with the old engines because that was the only way I could get them to run the way I wanted...I have since put new guidlines on the net that I run 64:1 with the new engines...that is way more than enough, believe me.
I am worried about the cheap rod bearings that Zenoah is using on the new engines...I just had a Co using 5 ounces of Klotz oil burn a bearing...Is klotz a bad oil, no its a very good oil, just a bad bearing
Besides, its not so much the oil, its what the amount allows you to do with the lowend, if the pilot learns to use it properly....I have written tons of stuff on the net on how to do it...I'm going to compile that info into some type of book that I have been promising...I wanted to wait til I get more time on the new engines though..
I can tell you this, like the guy earlier on this thread, is when they have a old engine that has run the old way , real lean on the lowend. for a long time with lots of oil, some guys think this will fix their problems going to low oil operations..Hey, you may see improvement, but the damage was done long ago..
I've seen pleanty of motors burned up while running 5, and 6 ozs of oil, and so far, I have not seen one motor hurt because of low oil operation using amsoil under normal operation...I abuse the heck out of my engine, and I'll let anyone who wants, to look in the exshaust port, anytime
Regards,
Bill
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
BIGRCR
Veteran
Location: Easley, South Carolina

HeeHee! I agree totally.

.

BIGRCR- John Garst
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Xcellgasman
Heliman
Location: United Kingdom

I would just like to add..........my G230PUH which had a meltdown was by no means a fault with the engine or oil content, it was my lack of experience with these things given the dramatic weather temperatures we had this year (100 degrees is unheard of over here normally!)
I ran at least 30 gallons of fuel through that G230, every gallon at 80:1 Amsoil and she never ran so well.
All of these engines can be toasted in a second if they overstep the temperature requirements for one second, which mine obviously did.
Prior to using Bills setup, my g230PUH was always running way too lean (at 36:1) to get any 'smoothness' and consequently vibrating like hell, munching through servos and generally always on the edge.
When running at 80:1 everything settled down including the needles and I managed to get a nice running motor given the breathing restrictions the old G23 had.
I recognise that running oil at this level requires more precision and narrows the cockup parameters, but the end result is an engine which runs cooler, smoother, cleaner and with more power, any engine that runs cooler and smoother will also last LONGER!
Just for the record, I have seen RC230 engines trash bores and pistons running at 40:1 that have been badly tuned.
Experience, experience, experience....you can't buy it....unfortunately!
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
ELOSSAM
Veteran
Location: Es

Xcellgasman,
Some moths ago I suffered a problem with my G230RC and I wrote about it at http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1
http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1
and
http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

May be it doesnt have any relation with your engine but seems to be that Zenoah has sold some defective engines and you and me have the luck to own one of them. The G230RC was broken after few liters of fuel. I changed to the 26cc bore cylinder and was flying with it without any incidence since April.
Elossam (pd: Klotz at 4%, no amsoil available here)
09-28-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
BIGRCR
Veteran
Location: Easley, South Carolina

Correct.
Unfortunately, too much oil can also "ruin" an engine. In the older days of the Webra Bully (needle bearinged engine), it ran on only 5% oil in the fuel mix (on glow). If you added more oil and did not pay attention to the instructions, the engine would soon burn up. This is because when there is more oil in the total fuel package, there is less fuel in it to mix with the volume of air being pulled into the engine, this is called being lean. Of course you can open the needles up to get the fuel mixture right, but then the oil package is way too rich then again. This can stick a ring or most importantly cause poor running conditions. Gee, now what happens, HHMM...it seems to be running rich, so...let's lean it down a bit....get the picture?????? The engine may be getting enough lubrication, but soon leans out from a lack of fuel and quicky burns up. This will even start to burn up the additional oil and further hurt the engine.

The fuel in our two cycle gas engines does TWO things. It provides the fuel for combustion in which there is a definite "window" that is controlled by the needle to provide a fuel flow that mixes with a given amount of oxygen for combustion. The "fuel" part of this must stay within a given amount to support combustion, too much is too rich... too little is too lean.

The second part of our fuel "Package" that is fed to the engine is oil or a combination of lubricants and possibly conditioners. If there is not enough of these, then the engine will not get the proper lubrication. If there is too much, then the motor is getting enough lubrication but the additonal amount can and does effect how the fuel burns. Most of our lubricants today are designed not to burn in the cylinder so that they can lubricate. Some of this oil does however burn in the cylinder, but the rest is still inside of the engine and to get out must pass through the cylinder. Oil is pretty much non compressable (this is the part that does not burn) so it does one thing after it lubricates the engine and captures some heat to carry away. What's that,??? It increases the compression in the cylinder and this in turn greatly effects what the engine is doing. If the compression goes up, so does the cylinder temperature and the added heat excites the fuel more and will make the mixture LEANER and can cause detonation, all bad things. And then we richen it up to get rid of the lean condition (or the engine just runs like crap) and it is even richer.......... a viscious cycle that is not good for performance or the engine.

This is why someone who knows these engines will start with a good safe oil mix ratio and run it for a while with the proper needle settings so that they can read the plug. This is done every 1/2 to 1 gallon or so and is done with a plug that is clean each time ( if not new). Reading the plug is very important for the above reasons to analize the oil ratio ( promarily) and the fuel ratio (secondary- over a longer period of time). After reading the plug and getting a good idea of what is going on by looking at it, you can make a oil ratio change (or not) and zero in on the proper oil ratio and plug. The manufacturers have already done this for the most part and give you recommended plugs, oil ratios and initial needle settings to use. Unfortunately, the ratios for the engines recommended for helicopter use (in Zenoah's case anyway) are way off base and are most likely taken from the airplane applications and do not usually work well in the heli engines. I just don't think that they have done the research for helicopter applications. All of us know that helicopter engines are much more specific than airplane counterparts.

Bill Meader (and others) has done a bunch of field research over the years and has come up with recommendations due to this, as the manufacturer has not it seems (well, maybe so, the carbs are getting better). His methods and recommendations are from experience and knowledge of what these engines need and how they actually operate...in a helicopter, not in theory, not on a bench and not from what the airplane guys get by with!!
The new G231 is partly due to research and input from field research by several folks ( thanks Carey, Tim, and Blois) and these motors are getting better every day and becoming more user friendly at that. It's a great time to be fooling around with the gas helicopters, just hold on tight and watch what happens!!!

Hope this helps!!

BIGRCR- John Garst
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Xcellgasman
Heliman
Location: United Kingdom

It's a science all on it's own!
What gets me is, I have had a Kawasaki powered garden strimmer (18cc) weed whacker) which I purchased brand new 8 years ago. This thing has been abused for years, I work it very hard for hours on end every year, I put any old crappy gas I can find in the shed in it (including twigs & grass cuttings!), any oil ratio IF at all! It gets hung up in a cold damp shed for the other 6 months of the year.
It runs like a clock, has never quit on me, runs smooth as silk and starts 3rd pull every time, I have never touched the needles, I have only pulled the plug maybe 4 times in 8 years, I have NEVER cleaned the air filter and out of curiosity, I removed the muffler last week to have a look at the exhaust port side of the piston....guess what.....it is like new! Not even a slight brown heat burn!
I wish I could say my Zenoah experiences have been quite so trouble free! With the G231 and Bill Meador's help I can see a much brighter future for my X-cell gasser!
By-the-way, should the fuel priming bulb on these Zenoah engines stay full for the whole duration of a flight (assuming it was filled at the beginning)? My bulb always seems to be nearly empty after a flight, but on the Vario machines it always stays full. Is there an issue with the vario carb being upside down? Sometimes I detect a slight leaning out near the end of a tank of fuel (last 1/4), is this acceptable?
Regards.
09-28-2003 Over year old.
 
 
cyber-flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston, MA

For what it worth I can recount my mexperience with different oil mixtures. When I started with Amsoil 32:1 it was very hard to make engine run smoothly. The settings would change from flight to flight even throughout the day. I later switched to 64:1 mixture and the engine started to run more robust, at least in my perception. Things got even better after putting new 603 carburator, not at the first flight - took me almost a gallon to get needle settings right (I suspect slightly on a rich side). The end result was very smooth and quiet engine. Some kid at the field even told me that my heli runs much quiter than nitro ships and I was still running original boxy muffler!
The engine death was completely my fault - can't blame Zenoah or oil manufacturer. As Raja said (he was there of course) the heli got stuck on a tree after unsuccessfull auto and it was whole week before we found it. My fail-safe setting was 70% throttle and gas tank was almost half full, so the engine had plenty of time to kill himself...
The crankcase and the rest of the mechanics on the engine still look very good, I was contemplating to revive the engine by buying new cylinder and piston but at the end I went for a brand new G231. All remains are for sale at $80 (with original 167 carb).
Regards,
Val.
09-29-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

Nick, on the bulb, richen up on the low, if you can, and try to get more fuel flow...Sometimes the bulb does this when your a little lean on the lowend (or total fuel flow)...If this doen't correct it, you may need to check your screen on the pump side to see if it might be restricted..
Sometime the flappers on the pump side take a little bit to limber up to handle leaner settings....Mine done this too, and the richer setting fixed it
I'm running 1/3/8's on both needles right now, with no airfilter running ozark camper fuel

Regards
Bill (Century man)Meador


Good Job John on your essay, you da man!
09-29-2003 Over year old.
 
 
2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ]1449 viewsPOST REPLY
Modefo's RC Helicopters . XHELI.COM . Autography FlightPower

.
.
Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Where to get G231 engine?
 PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Tuesday, December 2 - 6:48 am - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie