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Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies . Model Rectifier Corp

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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Runs in clear coat
 
 
bbuzard
Senior Heliman
Location: Memphis Tennessee

Well I shot my Fury canopy tonight with the clear (my first attempt at this) and over did it a little and have some runs. Is there anything I can do to fix it? I'm using Transtar acrylic urethane auto clear and for a first effort it really looks pretty good but on the black (windshield) there are some noticeable runs. Any suggestions? I read on the can that you could add flash coats for up to 1 hour. Are those just light coats? I was trying to get it all glossy with one coat and then wait a day for the second coat. Should I have just done several light coats waiting a few minitues in between or did I do right with one heavy coat? I'm doing this outside and figured I should shoot it quickly and get inside (70 deg.) to dry in a more dust free area. This has been one enormous goat rope. I bet I have 15 hours in this thing and now I have the runs.
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Slider
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange City, FL

I hate the runs:0 They really stink! Anyway, let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then wet sand with 400 working your way up to 600 or even 1000. Try not to penetrate the clear coat, but just sand out the runs. Then give it a good once over with 600 wet if you already haven't. Then you can re-shoot the clear. I like to shoot two thin coats and one wet coat leaving 5 minutes between the thin and wati 10 minutes for the wet coat. But one thin and one wet coat should work seeing as you already have some applied.

My Two Cents,
Slider
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Just Canopies
Senior Heliman
Location: New York

Hi bbuzard,
Shooting clear coat is real treat! Is this clear coat in a rattle can, you know spray can? Well if it was in a spray can, I would spray several light coats. Never spray a heavy coat that's one of the reasons you are getting runs. Well if it was me and I had to use a rattle can. I spray a light coat let sit for about 5 minutes then spray the secound coat. As for the runs you have now you can take 500 or 600 grit wet & dry sand paper and a rubber block with water wet sand the area where the runs are until gone. It's a little tricky you what to make sure you do not go thru the clear coat you got there now. Next use some 1000 and 1500 grit wet & dry sand paper with alot of water elbow grease wet sand the whole canopy, make sure to get the area you sanded with 600 grit sand paper. When this is all done you can use glazing compounds hand rub the canopy until it shines or reshoot more clear coat over the old. Hope this helps some.


03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
bbuzard
Senior Heliman
Location: Memphis Tennessee

Well maybe I'm not screwed. I didn't even know there was such a thing as 1500 grit. Must be like toilet paper
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
bbuzard
Senior Heliman
Location: Memphis Tennessee

BTW to answer your question no it's not in a spray can. I'm using a MAC tools (don't know the model) spray gun that's I think gravity fed.
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Just Canopies
Senior Heliman
Location: New York

Quote 
Well maybe I'm not screwed. I didn't even know there was such a thing as 1500 grit. Must be like toilet paper


They even make 2000 grit sand paper. It's not that bad. It's and art all by itself the shoot clear coat.
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
bbuzard
Senior Heliman
Location: Memphis Tennessee

Well I can tell you right now you'll be painting my next one Mort. A rubber block??? Now I'm going to Wal Mart! You got all the stuff, I'll pay you to do it
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Just Canopies
Senior Heliman
Location: New York

Yea a rubber block. I get mine from my local automotive paint shop. Wal-Mart might carry them I do not really know. They do carry alot of stuff.
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Just Canopies
Senior Heliman
Location: New York

Joe,
It works fine for me! Once in a while I'll get a run and to remove the run. I block it out a rubber block and 600 grit wet n dry sand paper. The block makes it easier to take the run down. Yes you can take to much clear off if you do not pay attention to what you are doing. Remember the run is thicker in that area then rest of the clear. So when you sand the run with out a block you will end up sanding the clear around the run and the run, so you are taking it down not just the run but the surrounding area. By the time you get the run down level you might have sanded thru the surrounding area.
03-14-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

I agree with Mort regarding block sanding the runs. If you REALLY want to do it right, get a set of 'Run Blockers' to sand with. They are made of aluminum and are FANTASTIC! You can see what they are at this site:

http://www.autobodystore.com/paint1.htm

Here's a quote from that site:

"Since I've been using run blockers I've been able to get my runs much more flat without sanding thru the surrounding paint. Even my helper, who doesn't buy any tools, asked me to get him a set of these little wonders. "

After wet sanding with 1500, hit it with some cutting compound, then finish with some Chroma 1500 Glaze. You won't believe the shine you'll get! Of course a power buffer makes the job a whole lot easier.

- Bill in Tucson
03-17-2002 Over year old.
 
 
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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Runs in clear coat
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