Virtual1 Senior Heliman Location: Waterloo, Iowa - USA
| I'd go with Mike's idea and use diodes. They produce a reliable voltage drop, regardless of load so no need to haul out formulas and try to calculate resistances. 0.6 volts are dropped by each 1N4001. Besides, the resistance of the bulb isn't constant because it changes as battery voltage changes, so those formulas are less than ideal.
Diodes and resistors will both produce heat though, you will lose some of the pack's power needlessly. The most efficient solution would be to use a voltage regulator chip. I don't think rat shack would stock a 3v regulator though, but you can always look. Get one that can handle the current your light will draw. (1 amp should be plenty)
Oh, and have you considered just removing a cell from your battery pack? Sometimes the simple solutions are the hardest to see. A three cell battery pack would kick out 3.6v, add a 1N4001 in series with the light and you'd drop it right down to 3.0 volts with a minimum of power lost to heat, plus it'd be one cell lighter. The lowered battery supply voltage should also lower the current draw and lengthen battery life.
OK last suggestion I just thought of... if you have a few spare bucks or a stocked parts box, use an ESC! They're used to regulate power to DC motors in electric helis, they hook right to the throttle channel. You could use a small one like for a Hornet, and just run it right to a spare channel on your receiver, and you could turn on or off the light by remote, or set it at any brightness you wanted if you have a spare dial. And that has a regulator so it would be very efficient and could use as big of a pack as you'd care to hook up. Just be careful, you can dial in enough juice to blow the light since you're setting the voltage.  |