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Gyro Hobbies . JR-Spektrum . E-flite

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Beginners Corner > Understanding Gyros and Servos
 
 
JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

As far as I can tell, I need a high speed servo for the tail rotor, correct? What are the torque requirments of such a unit on a 30 sized machine at 4.8 v? Transition speed should be below .16 sec/60 degrees? Does this sound about right?

I was steered toward the Telebee 701, which looks like a deal, but does it require the use of a digital servo?

How does the 701 differ from the 703? Is the 701 just more responsive?

I am going to convert a batch of four S148's to ball bearing to use them in the other places on the ship. As for a throttle servo, what sort of torque requirments does that have? Can I use a super micro servo like an SL110 (.7 sec/60 degrees, 8 oz torque), or do I need something with more power. Doesn't seem like I should, but what do I know... Anyway, thanks for all the help.
10-26-2001 Over year old.
 
 
BladeRunner
Elite Veteran
Location: Ontario Canada. Member of "some sort" s

Gyros and Servos

It's more important to have speed than torque on the tail, not much power needed there, same thing for the throttle(as far as torque). If you are using standard servos for everything else I would use the same servo on the throttle, that way you can take one off the collective or cyclic if you need to replace it (sort of a built in spare). The 701 Telebee is for faster servos and the 703 is for standards, as far as I know that's the only difference. In fact I read a post somewhere that said the Telebee's were a clone of a CSM(I think) and you could change the software if you had the cable. I have both Teletubbys and the port is inside the case( the new case dosn't have the port opened to connect the cable but it's still inside. ------BladeRunner.
10-26-2001 Over year old.
 
 
winger
Senior Heliman
Location: Indiana

gyro/servo

Buy the Futaba Gy401/S9253 combo. Heli Hut sells these for $205 delivered to anywhere in the US.

They even take PayPal. Visit http://www.helihut.com .

Futaba has a cheaper verision (Gy240 I believe), but it doesn't come with the servo.

The tail holding capability of the GY401 is outstanding. I'm running one on every heli I own. I sold my Telebee's and CSM's to make room for this combo.

You won't be disappointed.

Winger
10-26-2001 Over year old.
 
 
- Location: -
Gyro problems

I have the rappy put together. have burnt about 5 tanks of
juice in it today with it strapped down, still trying to break the
engine in. Every thing is set up right including all the throws are
centered at 90 degrees. Checked the atvs for binding, all is well, but I
have a problem. I had the gyro turned off when I was setting the throws
as the instructions say, but when I turn the gyro on, It right away gives
me full right rudder, and it does not matter if the engine is running or not. and when I give full left ruder, it returns back to the right real slow. and my throw is minimal to the left. I did not
notice this with the nexus? any idea what's going on?
10-28-2001 Over year old.
  WV   EDIT
 
 
Augusto
rrAdvertiser
Location: San Diego, CA

The torque required for the tail is not dependent on the 30 or 60 size. It is dependent on the design of the tail rotor. If the rotor blade's hole is closer to the tail blade's leading edge then the tail is more stable but more torque is required to move it. The further away the hole is from the leading edge the more unstsable it is and the less force is required to move it.

Avant Aurora Ultimate
10-28-2001 Over year old.
 
 
- Location: -
Note - Never spool up your heli with it "strapped down"! You are just asking for a phenomena known as "Ground Resonance". This guy is a first cousin of the "Woof and Poof". To make a long story short the heli needs to be free to move under the head assy without any interference. Yes you can get lucky and get away with it, but sooner or later it will get you. The blades will go wildly out of track (6-8 inches or more) and your beautiful new machine will self-destruct right in front of you in about a half a second! If it occurs plan on replacing a bent main shaft, broken blades, bent feathering spindle, broken linkages, stripped servos, and maybe even broken frames.

Also - Never "tether" the heli thinking it will prevent it from flying away. When it reaches the end of it's line, the tether will "trip" the heli and a crash is guaranteed.

Steve
10-29-2001 Over year old.
  WV   EDIT
 
 
freestyle
Veteran
Location: Redmond WA USA

ddavis - the funny servo movements you're seeing are totally normal for a headingh old gyro when you're testing it out on the bench. Basically, it's trying to straighten out by adding some rudder, but since the heli isn't actually flying, the rudder change doesn't cause the heli to change heading, so it adds some more rudder, which doesn't work, so it adds more... and so on.

It will act much more reasonably when the helicopter is actually flying.

Also, it is a bad idea to run the helicopter while tied down. There are plenty of sad stories about resonances building up and literally shaking the helicopter to pieces in no time at all.
10-29-2001 Over year old.
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Beginners Corner > Understanding Gyros and Servos
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