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Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

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Beginners Corner > First "Flights" questions
 
 
42GPW
Heliman
Location: North Royalton, Ohio

Hello,

I was thinking about my first flight, or at least the first few tanks of gas. I do not have anyone to help me get started, or to check my setup on the heli, so I have done it all myself to this point.

I am flying a Hawk IV, Futaba GY401/servo combo, Futaba 9C radio, OS .32SXH.

I have gone through the set-up on the heli as follows:

Insure the gyro is set to HH in the radio(It stays in position if I move the rudder to one side and let the stick slowly return to center). All servos are reversed or not as necessary.

I have effectively only one throttle-up programmed... pretty straight throttle curve, 50% at mid stick.

Modified pitch curve that bottoms out at approximately 1 degree of negative pitch and is at approx 2deg at mid stick. Mechanically, the heli is set up with full pitch in both directions.

Neg Exponential set on elev and aileron to keep relatively stable near center stick. (I think it is at about 25%)

I plan to get a large piece of plywood out of the garage, set some screws in it, tie two pieces of "550" cord (you ex military types know what this is) so that the heli is strapped down, but still allows rudder movement without enough to allow the heli to tip too far in any direction.

I want to mildly run up the motor, check blade tracking, and insure that the gyro is set up correctly, give the engine some breakl in time and just see how well it holds together.

One final question... I have 3/4 of a gallon of 20% nitro "Blue Thunder" car fuel for my 1/8 scale Ofna buggy... does this have the proper lubrication and cooling properties appropriate to a heli? I would think so as the two vehicle types have many of the same cooling issues.

I want to get a little more time on the simulator befoire I risk even a short hover.

I am soliciting comments on my unscientific methods, and any suggestions on set up for a rank beginner.
02-27-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
heliman41
Key Veteran
Location: Valparaiso IN. USA

Setup the pitch to be +6degrees @ mid, +9 @ top, and -1 @ full bottom with the TX pitch settings. Firstly tho set the pitch to 0 @ mid stick mechanicly tho so that later on as your exp. gains you can then add more neg using only the TX instead of having to readjust anything mechanicly. Secondly, try REAL hard to find someone who is experienced even if you must do a serious drive, and thirdly dont tie down the heli no matter what!
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
BladeRunner
Elite Veteran
Location: Ontario Canada. Member of "some sort" s

Flights?

I can only offer a limited reply as I'm not familiar with your equipent, I would suggest that you rethink the -1 deg of ptich to start with. -1 is not bad but usually we set up new flyers with 0 deg. or even +1 deg.

The reason for this is when a new pilot gets flustered-and we all do, the first thing they do instinctivly is slam the throttle down, with a heli that's a bad thing, if you have ANY negative in your collective the heli obediently flys strait down into the ground, depending on your altitude- even a few inches and you may have a boom strike. So with 0 or even +1 you will avoid this altogether. After you are comfortable with hover remember to change the pitch and add some negative, I had a LOT of fun trying to get my heli down from 50 ft. with no negative pitch!! hehehe-it was interesting.

BTW, by your description of your thoughfulness in checks, it tells me that you are a person who is well aware of safety and following a good pre-flight plan-good on you, I wish more pilots would be as thoughtful at it as you are, your on the right track.
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
BladeRunner
Elite Veteran
Location: Ontario Canada. Member of "some sort" s

Flights?

heliman41 is right, never tether a heli to anything. I would suggest using a hoola-hoop for training gear, it's simple, light weight and cheap.
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
42GPW
Heliman
Location: North Royalton, Ohio

Don't tie down?

Why not tie down? I can't see any reason why not. As I mentioned... I plan to use two pieces of very strong cord, one at the front, one at the rear, tied to the board so that it straps the skids down, still giving freedom of (turning ) movement, but not enough to allow it to tip in any direction. Also, I don't plan to crank it up to the point where it is straining against the tie-down, I just want to get it going enough to where the blades will begin to bit, and any tracking problemms become apparent.

I will certainly reconsider if given a reasonable explanation as to why this is not a good idea.

I do plan to find someone locally to help me out, but I just can't keep my hot little hands off the thing and want to mess with it, short of destroying it, of course.

To comment about the rest of your kind post, I do have it so that the mechanical set up is as you described. I plan to use the radio to tweak the heli into other modes as learning progresses (beyond any pushrod adjustments for tracking or whatever).

Thanks for your post!
02-27-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

When the heli is lifting the LG is not designed to take the "up" load and if one corner lets go the heli will "explode" Secondly the stability of the rotor depends to a large part on the "body" responding. when you tie it down the natural stability is upset and bad things can happen (exploding heli again). Make some training gear and leave it at that. Lots of (bad) experience is behind these recommendations

Keep the "Blue thunder" for your car's
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
42GPW
Heliman
Location: North Royalton, Ohio

I understand..

Ok,

I got it...

With the heli tied down, the body does'nt have freedom of movement, ie aileron and cyclic.

So any movements I may make, regardless of how slight, I would imagine, will at best result in a boom strike. This will be due to the body being effectively rooted to the spot, and the rotors will try to push themselves down and deflection will be way more than if the body is free to move.

I can see it now... I'm out there happy as can be getting the thing fired up, trims are off and as soon as it spools up, BOOOM! heli in pieces small enough to wipe my butt with.

I am glad I mentioned this... I apologize to those who wizely counciled otherwise... but I am stubborn and don't like to do things without understanding them.

One more question... can I use a drill without a one way bearing on my start shaft on the Hawk starting system (5mm wand, push down until it engages crank shaft/fan, spin, when engine catches, lift starter contraption until engine turns freely) or am I up for some frustration?? this is my only weak spot, mechanically, that I can see right now. I can picture my 18v (set to an appropriately mild torque output) may hold the motor back from spinning freely once it catches.

Any comments about my fuel (see orioginal post)?
02-27-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

May cause frustration and damage to the "heli" side. Sometimes it can "spit" the wand out and damage some linkage. I know it's hard wait but do yourself a favor and do everything correctly. Without direct help don't take any short cuts.

Read my last post regarding the fuel issue.
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

Have you checked out the pilot locator for any help?

http://p-locate.rc-helipad.com/ohio.htm
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

Car fuels usually have a lot less lubrication than heli fuel. Most of the heli fuel I have seen is at least 18%, and often more like 20-23% oil. A heli specific mix is worth looking into.

Thanks, John Cadwell
02-27-2002 Over year old.
 
 
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Beginners Corner > First "Flights" questions
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