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A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings . Modefo's RC Helicopters

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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Swashplate fit
 
 
EdVp
Heliman
Location: Bedford, Ohio

Hi there; I'm a junior member with my first question-problem.

I'm building a Raptor 60 and everything is going together sweetly. Except, when I put the swashplate through the mainshaft and snap on the four outer links, all the movement seems rather tight. It's hard to explain. Without the swashplate, every pivot point moves smooth and without slop. The link by itself on the ball isn't tight neither...
Is this something that gets "broken in" or should it work better before moving on?
Thanks for your help!
02-21-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Doug
Elite Veteran
Location: Naples Florida....

A little stiffness is normal, I would "fight" tendency to size the links. If the system will travel with the servos with no binding then just fly it it will loosen up with time.
My .02
02-21-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Lwnemesis
Senior Heliman
Location: Seattle, WA

you need to check your links to see how tight they are on the balls you should be able to freely swing the link on the ball. Check all your links and make sure they are free. use a ball link tool to free up the links. On almost all new helis the plastic links are tight. You should be able to put the link parallel to the ground and just slightly flick it down with a finger, it should swing about 1 inch then stop by itself. If it swings 90 degrees or more it is a little loose. If it stops as soon as you flicked it then it is too tight.
02-21-2002 Over year old.
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OldRotor
Heliman
Location: Orange Park, FL

EdVp,

I'm almost finished building my Raptor 60 and had the same problem. The regular screw on links are all fine, but the elevator arm links, wash out links, and the flybar contol links are way too tight and I'll have to resize them. My swashplate was stiff without anything connected to it until I turned the pivot ball 90 degrees where it blocked the opening and then twisted it CW and CCW. After that it was smooth. My guess is that it was never perfectly round to start with and I somehow stretched the plastic or shaved it with the edge and gained some extra clearance. Either way it worked for me.
02-22-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Virtual1
Senior Heliman
Location: Waterloo, Iowa - USA

I just fixed that problem on my R50. Most of the ball links on the Raptor are all a bit tight, and some are downright stubborn. I loosened them up by gently squeezing the plastic links with a pliers while they were on the ball, a little at a time, until the link was free to move on the ball and fall with gravity, but no slop. (done with the other end of the link disconnected) Don't try this until you have a few spare links onhand, in case you slip and chow one, (I did once) or over-squeeze and get a link that has play in it.

The harder issue was the elevator arms. ("A" links) They are stiff, brittle, and thin. What worse combination could you hope for from a critical plastic part? They can be squeezed too, but they're so thin and brittle I don't think I'd trust them afterwards. I had one crack the first time I put it on with a ball link pliers. The stick you get on the ball link is nothing compared to the stickyness of the A-link with its seesaw. The pin has a death-grip on the seesaw and the A-link. You'd have to ream out the holes in the A-links (not the seesaw!) to cure this. My solution was considerably more expensive, but solves all kinds of problems: replace it with the aluminum elevator set. ($80!!) The A-links you get have standard replaceable links on them and zero friction on their pin. Well, not zero. The A's were machined very close to the seesaw, but still stuck just a hair. I scraped across the flat with an x-acto knife to remove the few microns of raise on the edges to make it perfectly free with no slop. Be prepared to rip the heli apart to install the seesaw. I was just barely able to pop it into place after loosening up half the frame screws and opening the frame 1/4". Keep an eye on the four small c-clips, they like to play hide-n-seek.

Lastly, be sure you don't tie the wires back too tight on the servo that's inside the elevator arm, that wire has to flex as the elevator arm is moved up and down.

Once you get these things done, the flybar will fall to one side or the other unless you have the blades perfectly squarely extended, and the elevator arm will fall down when you disconnect it from the servo... it's then that you know things are friction-free.
02-23-2002 Over year old.
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OldRotor
Heliman
Location: Orange Park, FL

Last night I resized the plastic links by using a method I read about here where you put a spare link into a drill chuck and slightly score it with some needle nose pliers and then spin it for about 15-20 secs. It worked great. I could look inside the link and see where it knocked off the highspots instead of reaming the whole thing out. I did it to both elevator A arms, flybar control links and washout links and now they all are smooth with no slop.
02-24-2002 Over year old.
 
 
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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Swashplate fit
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