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Aerial Photography and Video > My Rig -cam mount
 
 
MPAElite Veteran - Location: Australia -
Mount displayed was replaced
05-14-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Jagboy69
Key Veteran
Location: Lake Mary, Florida (20 mins East of Orlando)

thats quite a rig you got there.. Very impressive

Jason /// Sceadu50/9chp WWW.Jagboy69.com
05-14-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
ELOSSAM
Veteran
Location: Es

Good job Dave, looks rustic like mine if compared with some commercial units but you donīt think to start selling it.donīt you?
If it works right thatīs the most important thing. For me the best are the dampers you use. I got some here but seems not to be stiff enough to hold the whole system.
For camera focus and trigger you must consider to order a coulple of electronic switches from Michele Shieppati in Italy at only 18 eur each one Iīm sure you will be happy as me with it. You will save some weigh and space and will also have single or continuous shutting option.
See them hidden down the camera rig corner. The plugs are only for programing the on/of point and auto on timmer through removable jumpers and the led shows with a light code the currently status of each one.



Cheers
Elossam
05-14-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Jagboy

Thanks.
I often hear passers by in ear shot say "What the hell is that !" in a kind of voice they'd use when spotting a UFO and are deciding whether they should they run away or stand still and hope it doesnt see them.
Something I have a laugh to myself about everytime.
I need a speaker on it, "take me to your leader !"

Perhaps one of those revolving laser balls underneath, realy phuck with their heads.

Cheers
05-14-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Elossam

No not in the mount selling game.

Eventually if I get a mount I am real happy to work with for some time then Ill get some parts milled up to trim down the count and the size some and also clean up the finish of the fabricated parts..

I dont think it is worth going and getting parts milled up to spec to look slick if they are not a permanent fixture and this mount isnt, Im not sure how long it will remain as is before I decide to try something else, not always needed but if you dont build it and try it out then you dont get the true results so Ilke to try variations on it physically rather than rely on theory alone.

Shortly the tilt drive will turn into a belt when I get another so that mounts and gear will go in the junk bin for some other job.
I need a belt on it because of the length of some of Gregs lenses the gears are not going to cut it..

Either that or another gear set that I am looking at, it has two gears one is offset from the other and spring loaded so when they are meshed with a driving gear there is no slack in the gear and the spring loading assure both sides of the driving teeth have gear contact not just toe or heal of the tooth like a standard gear.

Ive spotted that switch before do you have a URL Id like to check it out.

Cheers
Dave
05-14-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
kima
Senior Heliman
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Hi dave,

That looks like it does the job spot on, I am just in the prosess in building my own cam mount, and was wondering what you use the 5k pot for? The camera i am useing is a cannon 3000N and i was going to fokus the ccd camera into the veiw finder, can you give me any advise on this.

I will post some pictures of mine in a couple of weeks as i am getting it anodised just to increast the strength of the frame.

Thanks alot cheers Kim Attwell
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
ELOSSAM
Veteran
Location: Es

Hi Dave
About the URL, our friend Julian posted it at the TX/R setup advice post few days ago, itīs
http://space.virgilio.it/schieppati.m@tin.it/prod02.htm

IMO the best 36 EUR I spent.

Elossam
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Kim

The 5K pot provides the feedback to the panning servo.

Servos have a 5K pot in them, it tells the servo where the output shaft is pointing so it remans proportional to the stick position.

There are a few sites showing mods to servos.
Ill see if I have the URL somwhere.

As far as pointing the CCD through the viewfinder we have some testing of lenses to use going on at the moment, not the thread on it in here.
Currently I am about to test a 5.7mm lens we got from a company here (who led us to beleive it was free sample then handed me a bill for it, frigin curry puff.)

Ive tried a 4.8 mm lens for the mini camera but its still a bit small
Julian has a 6mm focal length lens that is the right size with a little overlap, hoping the 5.7mm macro lens will be spot on.

Keep an eye on the thread here on it Ill post a shot from the viewfinder when I fit the 5.7 lens to see the results.

If you dont have a mini camera yet wait a week, once you know the lense size you need you can go bargain a 5.7 mm into the camera deal, they come standard with a 3.6mmm lens.
Unfortunately most optional lenses are 2.9mm wide angle which not what we need for the viewfinder.

Anodised, hooley dooley !.
A word of advice there, if you are making your own rig be prepared to do some mods and changes to it as you go, there are things that become apprent as you use it that you will want to deal with that might require some structural changes, anodising, milling or casting and the like of parts might be wasted until such a time your refined the rig and stopped making mods to the construction.
Id hate to see your anodised bits looking like a swiss cheese from mods to it.
But if you work in an Anodising shop then yeah do the lot anytime.

My advice is start out watching your budget on it, in time it will blow out somewhat as you want better or more so keep some for later and dont get too flash with the cash to begin with.
Secondly when you buy some stuf you need to modifiy sit back and take a breath before you hop into it, things like this can cost, I fried my monitor outsmarting myself and blew $250.

Cheers
Dave
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

ELOSSAM

Thats the one, thank you.

Cheers
Dave
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Seneca you might look at the thread above re the stool config.

On the flying of the heli without the cam I have another heli I use for fun, I need my helicam to be a helicam only I dont need to wear it out using it for sporting purposes as well but for those doing it part time and are prepared to do fun flying and work with the one heli, fine use a strap on job.

If I wanted to I could unbolt 6 bolts and remove it and put 4 bolts back in the same hole for the tray and I could fly it for fun but I wont be needing to.

I have one issue with the strap on however, the cameras that I carry are not my own and the body and lensed on them are worth more than the heli X 3.
Straps are definately out for my needs but, that is my needs and I am lucky to have another heli to do my fun flying.

In that I think my camera guy would balk at something that didnt look like it was built from the ground up to carry his cameras and I wll face the same with others.

Cheers
Dave
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Kim

For servo hack or mod check here

http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/n.../Bas_360_R.html

I use Method 2 for the panning which is the external pot.
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

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05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
ELOSSAM
Veteran
Location: Es

Whatīs that yelow stuff hanging from the tail, Dave?
05-15-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

The little yellow thing is the video antenna.

It is a ground plane antenna off RC Cam guy site, the arms that stick out got bent to so I grabbed a yellow plastic jar (square shaped jar) as a radome for it to stop the antenna or ground plane arms bending.

Cheers
Dave
05-15-2003 Over year old.
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RQ-1B DRIVER
Senior Heliman
Location: Whittier, CA

Trying to figure out how to get that camera on my heli

Trying to figure out how to get that camera in my heli , but it weighs about 70 lbs. Mounted on a tray with 4 lord mounts for vibration isolation. I know it's a plank !!!!!!
05-16-2003 Over year old.
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Wow that things a corker.

Whats the deal on "lord" mounts ?
05-16-2003 Over year old.
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kima
Senior Heliman
Location: Wellington, New Zealand

Hi dave,

thanks for all the info and that URL those servo mods are great. and i will wait till you have tested that lense that will be cool thank you very much.

the advise you gave is also valued, and the reason why i am getting my stuff anodised is just to give it a little extra strength as the frame is is made up of alu tube 12 dia 1mm wall thickness, actually it is very similar to the one CENECA posted on this cite, as for now i only have the one helie but want to get one purley for photoes as soon as i get my self sorted.

Do you cover all your cameras like the one you show? thanks again for your help cheers kim attwell
05-16-2003 Over year old.
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FlightPower
Veteran
Location: Herts UK

Dave,

What kind of downlink screen are you using for the cam-op please and is it nice and bright?

I made a similar construction using a cheap piece of junk LCD screen from Hong Kong - but the image is simply not bright enough to be used outdoors even in an enclosure.

Advice?

Thx.

Julian
05-16-2003 Over year old.
 
 
MPA
Elite Veteran
Location: Australia

Kim

Depends on the camera for a cover.
Mostly to protect the lens from knocks.


Seneca

I would not say "special" use I'm sure I am not the only one who carries various cameras.

If I had a second dedicated cam ship the mount swap would be an issue I could have a slide pin through the frame and simply take off from one and fit to another with a single rod and clip, even simpler than straps and more secure.
But I dont have a second heli for camera work so I dont need a mount that I can move the another heli in 5 mins, If I did Id have a pin mount so I could swap it in 30 seconds not 5 mins.

It does without saying that everyone need to evaluate their own needs for the heli and build to it.

The underslung frame has it uses but its just no use to me for me needs with various cameras I dont own, some I havent even seen yet.
For those with only one heli the slung frame is probably a good way to go, you wouldnt want to be stuck with a helicam only.


Julian

Same here, cheap china knock off 5 inch LCD.
The shroud seems to work, to be honest since I dont take the shots I leave to the the camera guy to complain about the screen, if he does then Ill need better but if not I might save a few bucks.

So long as I get that lens view through the camera size right Ive done my bit to give him what he needs, if it still not going to cut it ill have to face the cost.
I had a smaller one that was better but I fried it making a seperate power supply so got this one in a rush to replace it.
The better quality ones here are worth a small fortune to buy so I wont till or if I need to.
Being when Greg, Nile or whoever says, mate I cant see **** on the screen it's too poxy. (then I know there on to me going the cheap ;-)

If we need better Im jugglng the cost of a high end LCD or a headset viewer, a headset viewer instead of a better monitor might cover the need better.
Ill have to check out these headset viewers and see what they are like compared to monitor in front view before I can decide but I supect its a better way for the cam guy.

Cheers
05-17-2003 Over year old.
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FlightPower
Veteran
Location: Herts UK

On a serious practical point , even your cam operator can trip over or accidentally wander into something painful when wearing the normal video glasses. There are some extremely expensive ones that look excellent like the microoptical ones that allow pass-trough vision - but I think a screen like the one you have is the best cost-compromise.
05-17-2003 Over year old.
 
 
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