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Midland Helicopters . HeliProz . ZoomsHobbies

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Scale Model RC Helicopters > I am beginning my Airwolf project.
 
 
matt155
Heliman
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA

I am going to be installing a Century/Funkey Airwolf 50 fuselage on my Raptor 50 Titan. Here are some pictures as I begin this project.

10-04-2008 01:57 PM
 
 
skypilot 01
Key Veteran
Location: Northumberland UK

Good luck and keep the pics coming.

http://www.geocities.com/mick.patterson/home-page.html
10-04-2008 05:35 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Rick_H
Key Veteran
Location: Boulder City, Nevada

I am in the middle of the same project.

Couple of tips for you. The painted Airwolf is already drilled and cut out for the Century mechanics. Pay special attention to the Tail section, don't follow the instructions for cutting out the tail section to fit the Raptor, you have the longer boom so you will only have to cut out about 7mm not the 26mm it states in photo 6. You won't have to cut any of the back cap out at all. You will also need to use a hot wire to burn out a hole in the ring sponge right to fit the rudder control rod through as the existing hole is in the wrong spot for the raptor. You will also have to extend size of the starter hole.

I am still trying to figure out how I want to run the exhaust. I did not like the scale muffler so I have decided to use the standard TT muffler and I am trying to come up with a way to run the exhaust out of both of the thruster exhausts. Having a little trouble bending some tubing fit.

Have Fun Building.
Rick
10-04-2008 06:23 PM
 
 
matt155
Heliman
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA

Thanks for the tips. The first thing I encountered was that the pre-cut servo mounts were made with openings for micro servos and not retract servos. I had to pull out the dremmel tool and make them larger. I also noticed that the wood pieces that are supposed to mount to the heli mechanics where the skids mounted were too short for a raptor. What did you do to work around this? I am planning on using the stock TT exhaust and running it out the left jet. I am taking pictures of each step and hope to post them to help others.
10-04-2008 07:38 PM
 
 
Rick_H
Key Veteran
Location: Boulder City, Nevada

I added some plywood to the front in a U shape around the hole that was cut for the motor. I did this because the mounting holes for the front of the frame were very close to the pre-cut motor hole. This provided some extra strength for the frames.

Rick
10-04-2008 10:08 PM
 
 
Copter Doctor
Elite Veteran
Location: daleville/ft.rucker, al

great project guys! i am also in the middel of mine., this is my third airwolf over the years. the first one was a larry jolly 60 size witha gmp king cobra in it built back in 1991(damn i am old) then a 30 size one with a kyosho nexus back in 2002 and now a 50 with a sceadu in it. all were the unpainted version. the paintjobs are excellent but still not totally correct. anyway, i didnt use the wooden rails for the mechs instead i layed a plywood floor just wider than the base footprint of the mechs. the holes for the gear come smaller than needed so you can open them to fit whatever servos you want to use. i still say the woodwork should be glued in by the builder cuz getting them servos in seem impossible to me but as i do my own custom gear and rip it all out anyway, it dont matter much to me. one of the best things i did and i hope century starts doing this is make the top lid a two piece deal so you dont have to remove the rotorhead everytime you want to remove the mechs. even if you do that once a year, its still a pain in the butt. i modified the tail housing so the t/r would be on the left side of the heli but this is almost more work than its worth for a first timer. as for the vertical fin, i threw it in the box of vert fins(almost full) because it isnt right either and i didnt like it. i did give it to another member who needed a spare so it isnt totally useless. instead i made my own and have a channel in it so i can easily run the wires for the lights and the tailskid is anchored inside with 2 90 degree bends so neither a powerline or volleyball net will rip it out
see my gallery for some of the pics of this.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
10-05-2008 03:09 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Rick_H
Key Veteran
Location: Boulder City, Nevada

Wow, You have some nice ships Copter Doctor. This being my first scale ship I decided to go with the pre-painted AirWolf. My next scale ship will be unpainted. I can now see the value in being able to make hatches where you need them prior to painting. The hardest part I have found so far is setting up the retracts without binding.
I have finally got it working really nice. I really like the idea of spliting the top lid. I don't want to mess up the paint job so I am stuck with what I have on this ship.

Rick
10-05-2008 07:38 AM
 
 
Copter Doctor
Elite Veteran
Location: daleville/ft.rucker, al

thank you sir, yeah the painted fuse limits you to what mods youcan do without risking the paint finish.
the plywood is 1/8th of an inch thick and is epoxied inplace.
this tube is made from contruction paper that i roll to a good thickness using thin/med ca. it is tough and heat as wellas fuel resistant. i use tubes done this way as well for fancy exhaust routings. would have done it coming out of the jet exhausts but like a dodo, i glued inmy rear tank mount first and needed to wait to do that. oh well, i will seek therapy

the vertical fin i made from paper thin birchwood sheeting and balsawood. the hole allows me to replace the bulb and wiring should the need arise.

i always have a rule in scale building, dont make anything permanent if you can help it. make as much as you can removable for maintenance/transportation and make everything easy access when possible.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
10-06-2008 08:35 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
matt155Heliman - Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA -
Almost finished with my retracts. I had to enlarge the holes in the mounts to fit my servos. Then I decided to add a small piece of wood to the bottom to give more grip to the servo mounting screws. Everything was fuel proofed by mixing a little denatured alcohol with the epoxy and brushing it on the wood parts. Then many test fits to make sure everything works. I used the large 2 way servo arms that came with the servos and had to cut off one arm for the rear servos to clear. Here are some pictures of my progress so far.

10-15-2008 02:43 PM
 
 
dadysev
Heliman
Location: Toronto Canada

subscribing.
11-05-2008 04:00 PM
 
 
Klinger
Senior Heliman
Location: Brisbane Australia

Mines on the way too, whats the recommended serov choice for retracts?
11-07-2008 02:17 AM
 
 
matt155
Heliman
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA

Two servos I was recommended were the Futaba S136G and Hitec HS75. I went with the Hitec's because they were available locally and cost $27. The Futabas were $50. I then discovered that some people were modifying other Futaba servos to make them operate in 180 degree radius like the retract servos as well as using other servos and adjusting endpoints.

I used the 3 Hitec HS 75 retract servos, a y adapter and a reversing y adapter for the rear retract servos. Total cost was under $90 and about 4 hours of my time. There are many other ways to set up the retracts but this seemed the best for me because of its simplicity.

I have been very busy and have not been able to find the time to work on this project for a few weeks now. I plan on mounting the mechanics and flying it before Thanksgiving hopefully. I will be uploading more pictures once I get back to working on it.
11-07-2008 12:41 PM
 
 
matt155Heliman - Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA -
Here are some pictures from my progress this weekend. You can see how tight the mechanics fit.

11-18-2008 05:52 PM
 
 
matt155
Heliman
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA

I ran into a problem with the collective pitch arm touching the top cap. I am working to resolve that problem at this time. Hope to have everything done by Thanksgiving with any luck.

Anybody have a suggestion on how to attach the windows? I was going to use goop but was told to use epoxy.
11-20-2008 11:06 PM
 
 
Budgie
Senior Heliman
Location: England

Hi , to mount the windows i was told to use watch makers small screws that way if you need to work on the retracts at the front you can by removing the front screen, top tip !!!

http://budgieshelicopterclub.co.uk
11-21-2008 09:11 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
matt155
Heliman
Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida-USA

My clearance problem has been solved. With everything fitted up on the bench there was no issue with clearance on left rail for the muffler. However, when mounted in the fuselage the cooling hole for the engine head allowed the front of mechanics to sit a little lower and the muffler came into contact with the left wood rail. I cut a small notch in it and that was the end of the clearance problem. The collective pitch arm now comes very close to the top cap but does not make contact. I should be flying in a couple of days.
11-22-2008 03:01 PM
 
 
Copter Doctor
Elite Veteran
Location: daleville/ft.rucker, al

suweeet! keep it coming!

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
11-22-2008 03:27 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
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Scale Model RC Helicopters > I am beginning my Airwolf project.
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