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A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings . Modefo's RC Helicopters

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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Flybar carrier play
 
 
Jim Patterson
Senior Heliman
Location: AREA 51 Roswell

The flybar carrier seems to have a lot of play, you can rock it back and forth. is this normal or should i be looking at something. My other birds don't have this much play. (this is my first Synergy and was bought used although represented as a "eight tank" machine by the seller) No i'm really not that gullible, but it did look like a clean bird.

Highly addicted to carbon fiber.....
09-02-2008 01:48 AM
 
 
cdrking
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle

If all the obvious things are tight check the see-saw button head bolts. They could have backed out or loosened a bit or the bearings are loose in the head.

Does this machine have the dual bearing head mod? If it doesn't and this is the problem area then I would go ahead and do the mod. On Synergy's website they have a update/change PDF that will explain it.

Let me know if you want a link to the PDF.

Jeff

To hover is divine, the alternative is rather PLANE.
09-02-2008 01:54 AM
 
 
Tyler
Key Veteran
Location: Chicagoland area

Bearing

Check the flanged bearing where the flybar carrier is secured. I had one where the flange came off of the bearing. They don't fly very synergy like when this happens. Control is very unpredictable and pitchy.

Tyler

Airtronics, YS Power, Switchglo ignitors, Jersey Modeler filled with Magnum
09-02-2008 02:40 AM
 
 
Jim Patterson
Senior Heliman
Location: AREA 51 Roswell

Thanks for the info, i did notice the pitchy thing. I'll go thru it this week and check on the mod.

Highly addicted to carbon fiber.....
09-02-2008 04:21 AM
 
 
Jim Patterson
Senior Heliman
Location: AREA 51 Roswell

Found the problem. When disassembling the head i could not get the seesaw pivot bolts to back out, they would turn but not move. Anyway long storey short.....some wizbang heli wrench decided that red loctite was the answer to stripped threads. Also he had attempted the dual bearing mod, but used the wrong spacers and the incorrect bolt length. Most of the bearings were damaged as well so i ordered all new parts to the tune of around $100 with shipping. This also includes new main shaft bearings which are included in the price.

Just to clarify a couple of things since i have posted things about this Synergy in other threads. This heli was bought here on Runryder by my friend, user name jking, from a fellow Runryder member, (name witheld). It was represented as an "eight tank" machine and perfect. Joel, (jking) liked his first synergy so much that he wanted me to have one, and made me a really good deal on this one. He of course was totally unaware of any problems and i, of course, do not hold him responsible for any of this either. My main point here is about mis-representation of a used heli, along with bad and possibly dangerous repair practices. The bolts in the see-saw on this heli could have come out causing loss of control and possble injury to someone. A new see-saw costs a whopping $18, so other than being cheap or lazy there is no excuse for "glueing" the pivot bolts in place. I hope this guy doesn't practice this type repair on a routine basis, as i would fear for him and his fellow fliers.

Also, in the past with a used heli, i have always totally dissasembled any used machine i bought and gone thru it to correct any problems. I certainly should have done that to this one, but after looking at the sellers reputation and reading some of his posts, I trusted his representation that this heli was in good condition. I was wrong, and so was he.

Anyway, when i get her going again i will report back as to the effects of correcting this mess. Also, if the seller of this heli (you know who you are), reads this, i hope you don't do this again, especially considering the saftey factor involved.

Nuff said,
Jim

Highly addicted to carbon fiber.....
09-06-2008 02:57 AM
 
 
creightoncarr
Veteran
Location: Missouri City, Texas - USA

Many people, including myself, use red loctite on the bolts securing the seesaw. The problem is there's only two or three threads to bite on either side. I actually use a slightly longer bolt to get an extra thread or so, but you can't go too far or else they hit the flybar. I've seen the bolts start to back out when only blue loctite was use. You'll find that the seesaw strips very easily. I'm certainly not defending the seller - he obviously should have made the repair unless the problem was disclosed.
09-06-2008 05:31 PM
 
 
f-shivuk
Senior Heliman
Location: Israel

Yes, the flybar carrirer is made from a low quality aluminum and its stripped very easily.
09-06-2008 10:16 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Chuckie
Key Veteran
Location: Crofton Maryland, MHA member

You need to use heat to loosen the red locktite when taking the 4mm screws out of the flybar carrier. You probably stripped the threads when you tried to remove the 4mm bolts. I did the same on one of my repairs. I now have a small torch to heat up the screw and loosen the locktite.

As was stated, Red is the only thing that will keep the screws from backing out over a long period of flying. Blue just doesn't work in this application.

For reassembly I use 2 4mm shims between the bearing and carrier. The second one is hardest to install so use an exacto knife #11 to maneuver the second shim into position. If you don't add the second shim then you may find when the 4mm screws are tight the bearings will be knotchy.

Most importunately apply red locktite to the inner flanged bearing so it locks onto the head block. Do one at a time and hold the bearing in position until the red sets up. When the locktite breaks after a few months you will start to notice slop the carrier.

Chuckie

Please stand by for faster service!
09-07-2008 12:36 AM
 
 
Jim Patterson
Senior Heliman
Location: AREA 51 Roswell

Thanks for the input, i've been building helis for over twenty years and know what loctite works best in each location.(don't mean to sound like a smart***, just letting you know my experience level). My point was that there were no threads when this was assembled. The bolts weren't tight at all but were simply being held in by the red loctite. I ran the bolts thru a dye to see if any aluminum was in there with the loctite. There was none. Also when doing the dual bearing mod the bolts are supposed to be changed to 10mm (length) this still had the 8mm which indeed would allow for only a thread or two, instead of the five or six available.

A little tip on releasing loctited bolts without the risk of catching anything on fire with a torch, use a large trigger type solder gun and hold it directly on the head of the bolt that you want to remove. Basically all the heat is then concentrated in the bolt itself and doesn't get hot enough to discolor the anodizing either. After 30 seconds or so the bolt will release easily. This works well around carbon fiber also. Give it a try next time, you'll like the results.

Anyway, i'm done venting and heading out to the shop and put it back together, (correctly)

Highly addicted to carbon fiber.....
09-07-2008 03:45 AM
 
 
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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Flybar carrier play
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