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Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > How Long before a thorough re-build / Overhaul
 
 
Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Hi,

I've had my stratus for about 7 months now and have done approximately 170 flights, maybe half of which were relatively gentle with the latter half being aggressive.

Thankfully, i have been lucky enough to avoid crashing it so far. Yay!

Wondering if its time to do a complete rebuild and refresh of gears, servos, dampers etc. wondering what the usual practice is in this respect?

One proviso is that this helicopter has been amazingly resilient, i haven't even have had to change a ball link on it. Super strong and reliable. Only thing i have changed has been the fuel thank, which developed a leak, probably my own fault.

Thanks!

Pars
07-23-2008 07:07 AM
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BJames111
Elite Veteran
Location: Billings, Montana

It's hard to say, that's the greatest things about MinAir helis! They just don't seem to wear out. I would take a close look at the dampers, in the head and fan, the uniball, the gears etc, but I don't know that a total re-build is needed. Check your servos one by one perhaps. For me, the winter is when I do a very detailed check and cleaning.

Brian James
Fury Extreme
Raptor 90 SE/3d
Align 600 NSP
Hirobo Quark
Elevated R/C
07-23-2008 02:28 PM
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Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

servos all seem fine, main gear and tail gears seem fine, ball links all seem fine (no play in them yet), the engine's a goner, sounds like there is an ironworks in there, head seems very tight still...

am not sure what to do!! never had a heli take so much abuse and keep on going like this... feel like i should be replacing things...
07-23-2008 04:17 PM
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lfalsetto
Veteran
Location: COLORADO

MinAir seem to go on forever, check the bearings and ball links, links and balls tend to wear down because of fuel and dirt, especially around the tail pitch slider and throttle. Replace as necessary fly and enjou.
07-23-2008 04:25 PM
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rada70
Key Veteran
Location: Westchester, NY

I've had my 2 stratuses for years now; I never had to do anything to them. The only thing I constantly check is the backlash in the crown/tail gears. I do pre and post inspection regularly. I found a loose screw here and there. Nothing else. What needs a closer look are the plumbing, wires, engine, bearings, and dampeners.
Enjoy

Just do it.
07-23-2008 06:25 PM
 
 
Dr.Ben
Elite Veteran
Location: Richmond, VA, USA

A few things to check/replace:

Mainshaft support bearings. I'll bet you a dollar at least the one in the middle bearing block is bad. A lot of this is determined by how dirty your flying site is and how tidy you keep your model.

The bearings that support the front t/r drive shaft. I always loctited these bearings to the shaft, so I rarely had them go out. If you didn't do so, then you need to check the bearings and the shape of the shaft running in them.

Tail box. Check both bearings that support the output shaft. Then check both t/r hub radial bearings and the thrust races. The thrust races will be devoid of grease after that many flights. If your t/r hub isn't black, replace it with the newest version just for safety's sake. Also check the tail box input shaft. I had one spin in the radial bearings to the point it really wore the shaft. After that, I loctited the shaft to those bearings.

Auto hub. Pull it out, flush it thoroughly, then relube it. It'll be dry when you check the bearing. Factory service interval for relubing is every 50 flights, though few do so. You'll need to dress down the inner ring assembly where the sprague frets the sleeve.

Ben Minor
07-23-2008 07:50 PM
 
 
Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Thanks... will do when i get the engine out for replacement. How do i change the bearings if I need to though? how do i get the old ones out? Also... what does this entail... sorry the most clued in builder, "You'll need to dress down the inner ring assembly where the sprague frets the sleeve."

Thanks again, i do feel that after such a long uninterrupted period of stellar service, it does deserve a bit of TLC.

Pars
07-24-2008 06:31 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Took the head off and removed the engine. Washed the main gear assembly in warm water and re-filled it with oil. Smooth as silk again. The swash seems a little rough.. is that normal?

Also, i have been running a OS91 sz, its due for a re-build, wondering if i should bite the bullet and try out the YS91SR as there seems to be a lot of good press about it lately, anyone switched over and have any thoughts on this?

Servos are 9451s, they are all working fine but would it be prudent to service them somehow?

Also, i notice the tail has developed a considerable amount of backlash due to the white delrin coupler that the torque tube slides into. I think the hole has widened over the use. It does not look like it will fail, should i be concerned?

Bearings all seem fine as far as the main frame and head, going to change the dampers though.

Thanks again.

Pars
07-28-2008 08:00 AM
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lfalsetto
Veteran
Location: COLORADO

If you change to a YS you will have to change the gearing, stay with OS rebuild your engine or get a new OS. I am not sure what you are talking about the tail is it an open box or closed? You may be able to adjust the mesh.
07-28-2008 02:51 PM
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Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Hi, i thought the YS91SR worked of the same 8.18 gearing? am i mistaken? aware that i will need to change some parts though, wondering if it was worth it? no real complaints about the OS...

In respect to the tail, am talking about the coupling that sits within the mainframe that connects to the torque tube... sending drive to the tail.

Thanks again.

Pars
07-28-2008 03:06 PM
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BJames111
Elite Veteran
Location: Billings, Montana

Parisol the new YS91SR engine does work great on the 8.18 g/r. ONLY the older ys engine required the 8.45 g/r. Once you go to this new YS engine, you will probably wonder why you spent so much time tinkering with your OS engine HOWEVER, you may consider picking up the Hatori SB19 as well depending on what muffler you have been using.

Brian James
Fury Extreme
Raptor 90 SE/3d
Align 600 NSP
Hirobo Quark
Elevated R/C
07-28-2008 04:28 PM
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jphilli
Veteran
Location: Marietta, Ga.

To get the bearings out of the blocks, just heat the blocks with a heat gun and tap the block on a table with some pliers. They should just fall right out.

When putting new ones in, you can use a press or just heat the block.
07-29-2008 12:53 AM
 
 
Parsifal
Veteran
Location: Singapore

Thanks a lot guys, to be honest, i have had a great run with the OS91sz i was using, close to 200 flights and no complaints till now. Just itching to try the YS for a change. I am running an MP5.

Thanks again for all the advice, much appreciated.

Regards,

Pars
07-30-2008 03:41 AM
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Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > How Long before a thorough re-build / Overhaul
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