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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber

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Aerial Photography and Video > Logo 10 frame flex
 
 
Hogster
Key Veteran
Location: Surrey, UK

Hi all

After stiffening up my Logo 10 frame, I now have a nasty up'n'down wobble on visible in my videos ... I can't *really* see anything wobbling when looking at the heli, but on the video it's bad It's wobbling at about 5Hz ...

This is how the heli looks at the moment:



As you can see, the camera mount is supported by two braces on the underside which makes it nice and stiff. So I can only imagine that flex in the frame (and there is quite a lot if you hold the U/C and push the rotorhead gently from either side ... and it's the frame that's flexing, not slop in any of the parts) is causing the low-frequency wobble. Will try to upload part of the video to show you what it's like.

Would it be worth me making some stiffening braces for the frame to give it some more strength? Or would that just change the resonant frequency and make something else wobble instead?

Many thanks for any ideas you may have

Cheers,


David
07-18-2008 12:55 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Disciple4123
Veteran
Location: Waynesboro, VA USA

I used some 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum to brace the upper and inner frames at an angle on an old Ber. Intrepid years back. It stiffened it about 4x and resolved a lot of wobbliness that was present in that airframe. I encourage you to try similar measures, it may likely solve your problems.

I pulled a very old picture of the intrepid, you see the black angled plate in the right rear of the photo, that is what I had made for each side.


When an object has one rigid axis, and one loose one, all vibration or oscillation can be concentrated on the loose axis. That explains why flat aluminum stock, unsupported can flutter so much compared to a round tube in a given installation. Imagine if your boom supports were flat stock, they'd certainly flutter vibrate, but round tubes do not. All helicopter airframes we use are stiffer fore-aft than they are left-right. That being said, some of them have adequate flexure, or the right resonant frequency to their left-right flexure, to cause a problem.

Eric
07-18-2008 01:49 PM
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Art-Tistic
Senior Heliman
Location: Somerset, NJ

David,
I think you need to incorporate the gimbal mount into the side-frames. right now you have a lot of weight below the frame and CG. So naturally the frame will flex. also, try to get the camera's center line even with the centerline of the tail. Trust me you'll love the difference in the way she flies. The logo is such a smooth machine that you could go rigid and just leave the dampners on the camera platform.

JM2C, I hope this makes sense to you! I know you'll kick it in the a$$!

Regards,
Anthony

Anthony J Francese
Owner/Executive Producer
Artistic Expressions Video Productions
07-18-2008 01:52 PM
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Tritan
Senior Heliman
Location: Sweden

David, do you have the old side frames or the newer 3d frames with the vertical reinforcement between motor and main rotor mast?

[url=http://mikado.e-vendo.de/e-vendo.php?shop=k_mikado_e&SessionId=1998x90c30fbc07c387439aa1d096e13f3991]

The is a difference and maybe you have reached the limit for what the Logo 10 (with plastic frames) can do?
07-18-2008 08:23 PM
 
 
Hogster
Key Veteran
Location: Surrey, UK

Hi all

Thanks for the feedback!

I have removed the braces again and it's a little better now ... I think a complete redesign of the whole mount is on the cards, but before I do that I might try adding braces ... never know, might help

Thanks again!

Cheers


David

PS. Tritan - this is an ancient Logo 10, it even has the old all-plastic swashplate So I would think the frames are old too ...
07-19-2008 10:38 PM
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GrandRC . CanoMod . Futaba-RC

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Aerial Photography and Video > Logo 10 frame flex
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