rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 263 ONLINE 20 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
1 page477 viewsPOST REPLY
Gyro Hobbies . E-flite . Next D

.
.
e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Blade 400 3D easiest way to replace Blade 400 rotor head?
 
 
andrewbee
Heliman
Location: Chicago

Hi,

I had a crash this week that is serious enough to warrant replacing everything from the shaft up on my Blade 400. Does anyone know if you can buy the rotor head as a unit, or do you have to buy all the parts and rebuild it? (I already have the blades).

Thanks
07-06-2008 03:27 PM
 
 
speeddemon370
Veteran
Location: Spruce Grove, Alberta, Canada

I don't think you can buy the whole thing as a unit. Usually there's less damage than you think. Just take it ALL apart one piece at a time, get yourself a towel and lay it all out in such a way that you'll be familiar with how it goes back together. Make yourself a list of everything that's bent or broken and head to your lhs (part #'s usually come in handy, see parts diagram in manual). It's alot easier than you think to rebuild the entire head, just remembor precision and balance is the key.

A couple other things that may help you out.....
A set of calipers is a necessity (even the cheap plastic one's will help tremendously)
Any metal shaft in the head (including the mainshaft that you apparently have no intentions of changing) should be rolled on a smooth flat surface (eg, glass) to check for the slightest bend. If it's bent trash it, with the exception of the flybar.
The fb can be straightened mildly.
Fb paddles absolutely have to be equal distances from the cage.
Feathering shaft bolts (the ones that go through the blade grips) need loctite. Also, put them in as tight as you can with your bare hands. I usually torque them on until I'm scared they're gonna strip.
Jesus bolts are cheaper by the dozen. And aren't available individually at any lhs around here. Bring one with you and buy a package from the hardware section.
Oh yeah, and with a crash that bad the mainshaft is almost guarenteed bent, and the lower jesus bolt is probably sheared off or almost sheared off. Check it now or you're gonna regret it.

with 2 ears and 1 mouth you should listen twice as much as you talk
07-06-2008 06:35 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
andrewbee
Heliman
Location: Chicago

Thanks. Towel is a great idea. Couple of questions though:

a) Why do I need calipers? Aren't they used for measuring distances? Or do you mean tweezers?

b) About the bolts that go through the blade grips - do you mean the ones that actually hold the blades on? If so, don't they need enough slack that the blades can swing out by centrifugal force?

c) I was most definitely going to check the shaft, and not just assume it isn't bent.

Thanks
07-07-2008 08:40 PM
 
 
dr.overclocker
Senior Heliman
Location: clinton, ohio

you need the calipers to measure your linkages and useto make sure your fly bar is equal length on both sides.

full throttle... i'll figure it out from there
07-07-2008 09:46 PM
 
 
speeddemon370
Veteran
Location: Spruce Grove, Alberta, Canada

Yes, droverclocker got it right. The flybar can slide through the cage one way or another, that distance has to be absolutely precise to have a balanced and vibration free head. I like to measure from the outside of the cage to the outside of each end of the flybar. I personally equalize that to within 1/100th of a mm. Then I put the paddles on and equalize the distance between those to the same tolerance. Silky smooooooooooth. Also, now would be an excellent time to make sure all the links that should be equal lengths (the ones between the swash and the head and all those in between) actually are. Most are not exact from the factory.

Quote 
About the bolts that go through the blade grips - do you mean the ones that actually hold the blades on
Nope, I mean the ones that hold the blade grips to the head. There's a shaft in there (feathering shaft) that bends if you look at it the wrong way. Guarenteed going to have to be replaced. Those little bolts that hold the blade grips on take ALOT of centrifugal force. Tighten the crap out of them and goop em up with loctite real good.

Lemme know how it works out. Don't be afraid to ask questions or use the rr search engine. My first head rebuild was very intimidating. Now I could probably do it in my sleep. You'll get there, just be patient and meticulous. You don't wanna half a$$ it and either have it fly apart mid flight or not work properly to begin with and have to do it all over again. DON'T FORGET to check your tracking during the first spool up after a rebuild. After you're first spool up, double check to make sure all the ball links are not too loose or too tight. Good luck.

with 2 ears and 1 mouth you should listen twice as much as you talk
07-08-2008 02:31 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
1 page477 viewsPOST REPLY
Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

.
.
e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Blade 400 3D easiest way to replace Blade 400 rotor head?
 PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Saturday, November 22 - 10:53 am - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie