RunRyder - Preddie again

rrTV-PHOTO

New HD TV

HOME rrTV-PHOTO GALLERIES MY GALLERY HELP-FAQ

myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 595 ONLINE 38 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER START HERE

4 pages [ << < 1 ( 2 ) 3 4 NEXT >> ]

1159 views

POST REPLY

XHELI.COM	.	Autography FlightPower	.	Advantage Hobby
	.		.

Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Preddie again

jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

when I'm shooting temp's I aim the gun around in small circles at the spot I'm trying to read and using the hottest temp it hit's. My temp gun displays the highest reading along with the current reading making this procedure a bit easier.

With my Predator's 6.28 gears it seems to be happier the faster I spin it. So far the 1850-1900 headspeed seems good. I only have a couple tanks at 2000 rpm but it's liking this also.

...yep...

06-25-2008 08:00 PM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote
With my Predator's 6.28 gears it seems to be happier the faster I spin it. So far the 1850-1900 headspeed seems good. I only have a couple tanks at 2000 rpm but it's liking this also.

The first HS reading was round 1900 in the hover and I did think the engine and heli sounded better too.. but was being cautious about then ending up with it overspeding in a descent (with iffy taching help).. but with that poorer tail hold I expect I'm goignt o be ona higher headspeed unless something I missed on the 611..but it was windy!

Pretty stable even when gusts hit it but tended to balloon in level circuits in the worst hits

pgk

06-25-2008 08:25 PM

lperagallo
Senior Heliman
Location: Westfield, Indiana, USA

pgkevet,

Don't depend on headspeed to improve tail authority. There shouldn't be any reason lacking tail authority at more reasonable headspeeds. I think you are entering a dangerous area when you get over 1,800 headspeed on a Gasser. It is putting a heck of a load on your engine, bearings and blade grips.

What size blades are you running? Is your engine modified? If so by whom and what level of mods? What size tail blades are you running? Do you have full travel on your pitch slider. If you are trying to solve the tail authority issue, work on the tail, not the head.

Lou

Bergen Intrepid EB, G-26, 720mm; Bergen Turbine, Wren MW54; Raptor 50V2, OS50-Hyper

06-25-2008 09:22 PM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote
If you are trying to solve the tail authority issue, work on the tail, not the head.

...I did make the point that i need to recheck the 611 setup and the poorer tail was sideways into wind (gusts to 38mph)..

pgk

06-25-2008 09:57 PM

Eury
rrProfessor
Location: Ankeny, IA, USA.

Quote
I think you are entering a dangerous area when you get over 1,800 headspeed on a Gasser. It is putting a heck of a load on your engine, bearings and blade grips.

How do you figure that? Same heads, blades, bearings, and grips as a 90, and they run 2000-2100 all day long. As for the engine, if it's operating within spec, it's not doing any damage to it, either. People need to stop thinking of gassers as any different than glow helis, other the engine, they are the same.

Nick Crego
Back off man, I'm a scientist.

06-25-2008 11:27 PM

TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

Quote
I also managed the idiot's thing of being distracted by Grandpa and stupidly forgetting to turn the flight pack on after a cool-down before firing it up. I've just found the 4200mah flight pack only took 2200 on recharge.. so I need another on-board charge indicator - could have flown more

Thought I would share my setup that might help to eliminate the problem you just had. And yes we all are guilty of not turning our flight packs on....Heli's and planks....Since I run an A123 setup and wanted to run multiple reciever feeds, eliminating switches and using a Deans connector to make the battery/reciever connection was the ticket for me. You can see in the photo where I make the connection on the breather/pull cord side of the skid. Would be kind of hard to miss the Deans not plugged in. FWIW....Thats how I do it.....

And to comment on your 4200ma flight pack battery. I run a 2s2p 4600ma A123....I don't think I could fly that much in one day with that capacity! After some testing, I average about 300ma per 10-15 minutes of flying. That is a lot of flying with over 4000ma available...

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...

06-26-2008 12:46 AM

jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

That's a dang good idea. I have my switch in the stock location just below the front/right swash servo. To turn it on/off I have to reach n behind the canopy and try to slide my finger into that switch without touching the F'ing muffler. I think the muffler has a layer of skin on top that's starting to look like bacon

...yep...

06-26-2008 04:37 AM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

I'll get around to making some mods. A more accessible switch would save the laziness and power wastage and mounting a switch/connector by the pull cord is a good visual clue.

Thinking a bit more: ..mounting a switch on the stock air intake box and using a double pole switch with an engine earth through it.. so you can't start unless the flight pack is on?

I'll have to rake up a double slider.. first position flight pack, second position break earth?

pgk

06-26-2008 06:47 AM

TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

Sometimes seeing things done a different way helps to spur thoughts of your own!

Saw a post here on RR last night about how to attach/secure the antenna wires off a 2.4 reciever. I just had mine dangling with no support. So it got me thinking about vibration and what it can do.

My antenna's are now supported! These forums are great to share different ideas.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...

06-26-2008 11:56 AM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote
Sometimes seeing things done a different way helps to spur thoughts of your own! Saw a post here on RR last night about how to attach/secure the antenna wires off a 2.4 reciever. I just had mine dangling with no support. So it got me thinking about vibration and what it can do.

touche.. think thatwas one of mine..

..and the switch only has to be one position double pole..break earth / contact flight pack

pgk

06-26-2008 01:37 PM

lperagallo
Senior Heliman
Location: Westfield, Indiana, USA

Quote
Same heads, blades, bearings, and grips as a 90, and they run 2000-2100 all day long.

Eury,

No one I fly with runs their 90 over 1,950 headspeed. The biggest difference I'd worry about is the weight of a Gasser compared to a Nitro and pulling hard collective and/or cyclic. You can really load up the blades. From a picture he posted in another thread of his bird it looks like he has plastic blade grips. Not a good combination with a 2,000 RPM headspeed.

Pgkevet,

You said

Quote
but with that poorer tail hold I expect I'm goignt o be ona higher headspeed unless something I missed on the 611

.

That to me read as Higher headspeed. Unless you played with the 611, there isn't much that it won't hold. You could try the Zeal green tape to hold the gyro sensor. As a newbie to Gassers you shouldn't be playing with a headspeed so high. When you are doing 3D then try a headspeed at 1,800, but general flying and learning should be done at a much more comfortable headspeed. It should fly very well at 1,550 in normal. If it doesn't you need to find out why.

You still didn't answer the questions about blade sizes, ratios or engine mods.

Lou

Bergen Intrepid EB, G-26, 720mm; Bergen Turbine, Wren MW54; Raptor 50V2, OS50-Hyper

06-26-2008 01:38 PM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote
That to me read as Higher headspeed.

...now, to me that measn I'm gonna play with the 611 and the tail and if I can't sort it then I'm going to up the headspeed..

..the tail did hold before the prang..but then those few flights weren't in the gusty conditions of last time and I hadn't tach'ed in flight and dropped the throttle curve then either. (didn't have the tach then)

Quote
You still didn't answer the questions about blade sizes, ratios or engine mods

unmodified 231puh, 710 main and 95 tail and ratio going to be about 6.42.. so yes option of bigger tail blades is there too

pgk

06-26-2008 02:07 PM

Fixit
Key Veteran
Location: UK

I had the 611 and I'm sure I used 110 tail blades on my pred, If im right the gain should only be set to 37 max and with that setting the tail would still drift on mine.

06-26-2008 02:42 PM

HOMEPAGE

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

I'll have to measure the tail blades.. it's what I thought they were but that might just be wrong.

To reiterate .. the lack of tail hold only happened yesterday flying sideways into wind to the left the rest of the time it was fine except for a bit of slow wag at rare times that I put down to gusts.

It is a new boom and I set it up as before but will rework it all and report if I ever get a chance to fly in decent conditions.<sigh>

pgk

06-26-2008 03:30 PM

lperagallo
Senior Heliman
Location: Westfield, Indiana, USA

pgkevet,

The 611 should hold like a rock even in the wind. I would go to at least 105s in the tail. Also make sure you have full travel in both directions on the slider and that everything is free. The 611 should work fine at 37 to 39% gain as read on the monitor, not the TX. If you are lower then 37%, up it a bit and see what happens. As long as you are don't get a wag, you should be fine with higher gain values.

Also make sure that you are not inadvertently changing your gain when you change flight modes from normal, Idle 1 and Idle 2.

I'm also assuming that you have a 9256 as the tail servo.

Do you have plastic main blade grips? If so I wouldn't be swinging 710s more then 1,900.

Lou

Bergen Intrepid EB, G-26, 720mm; Bergen Turbine, Wren MW54; Raptor 50V2, OS50-Hyper

06-26-2008 04:54 PM

pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

..I've got tomorrow am off. so it's going to get re-worked tonight..

This plastic grip business.. I don't see that being plastic should have much bearing on things. The plastic grips are chunky. Metal is more likely to have invisible fissures or crystalisation issues compared to plastic and while less likely to be deformed by accident but also less likely to recover shape.

I'd be interested in data rather than rumour over plastic/metal grip issues. I actually went back to plastic grips on my 600 because it was possible to bend the ball fitting in accidents that caused them to strike the head button.. at least with the plastic grips either nothing happened or the ball arm broke off and you knew!

pgk

06-26-2008 05:29 PM

Eury
rrProfessor
Location: Ankeny, IA, USA.

I put around 6 hours doing 3d with plastic grips on my Predator swinging 710s at 2000rpm. There was no problem until it hit the ground. You'll be fine.

Nick Crego
Back off man, I'm a scientist.

06-26-2008 05:55 PM

jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I'd think the more tell-tale sign of the strenght of the main grips would be your acciedent - it went in at full headspeed, right? How did the grips fare? Were they pre-NX style, I think the NX style grips are even stronger.

Personally I have no problems trusting the stock head at 2000 RPM.

...yep...

06-26-2008 07:03 PM

Eury
rrProfessor
Location: Ankeny, IA, USA.

My crash had nothing to do with the headspeed or grips, it's because my battery unplugged. Mine were NX grips, and they looked fine after the crash, but I chose to throw them away just in case. The plastic grips are fine.

Nick Crego
Back off man, I'm a scientist.

06-26-2008 07:09 PM

jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

yea, sorry bad wording - I meant to say that the grips survived a 2k hit into dirt, doubt slapping the air around will compromise the composite blade grips.

...yep...

06-26-2008 07:11 PM

4 pages [ << < 1 ( 2 ) 3 4 NEXT >> ]

1159 views

POST REPLY

Revolution Models	.	CarbonXtreme	.	Midland Helicopters
	.		.

Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Preddie again

UPDATE SCREEN PRINT TOPIC

Advertisers

Subscribe to This Topic