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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Tail Rotor Ctrl Tube
 
 
ch-47c
Senior Heliman
Location: san jose, ca

Anyone have troubles with the 35mm control rod pulling out using Medium CA? I like staying stock as much as possible. Thanks

Sorry, I'm not interested in responses as to other methods. I know I can use 5min, 30 min, 1 hr, 24 hr epoxy, JB Weld, or buy a control rod with titanium ends from a pattern company in MT.
06-07-2008 08:34 PM
 
 
HiroboFreak
Senior Heliman
Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia

Yes I have.

CA is quite brittle & it doesn't take much to break the bond.

If you read the addendum in the manual, it says to use Epoxy (sorry to bring up other methods)
I realise the manual stated to use Medium CA originally.

I use 24hr Epoxy on mine, it takes 3 full days to cure & have never had a problem since.

Synergy N9 | T600n Pro
06-07-2008 11:27 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Rymps
Senior Heliman
Location: Windsor CO and Indy

I have had mine come apart with CA. So i switch to 5 min epoxy. works great and you don't have to wait forever to finish the build.
06-08-2008 01:25 AM
 
 
cdrking
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle

Quote 
So i switch to 5 min epoxy.
Hey, he didn't want to hear that.

Jeff

To hover is divine, the alternative is rather PLANE.
06-08-2008 01:31 AM
 
 
Rymps
Senior Heliman
Location: Windsor CO and Indy

Sorry. I over looked that. But it works. If you had a tail rod pull out inflight with CA you will change your mind.
06-08-2008 02:24 AM
 
 
ch-47c
Senior Heliman
Location: san jose, ca

Alright guys, that's what I wanted to hear. I will use epoxy. I made the "I don't want to hear" statement to filter what I know works. I wanted to hear CA experience and I read what I expected.
Thanks all,
Rich
06-08-2008 03:49 AM
 
 
HiroboFreak
Senior Heliman
Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia

Yeah the use of Medium CA as per the manual was a BIG mistake in my opinion.

I, like you, followed the manual only to have the rod pull out in flight resulting a crash. Very minor, but still a crash.

I'm sure others had problems also hence the addendum to the manual.

I now use the longest curing epoxy I can find for maximum strength.

Synergy N9 | T600n Pro
06-08-2008 04:31 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pariah
Senior Heliman
Location: West Valley City, UT - United States of America

Good topic, overall...

If only I hadn't missed the addendum instructing to use Epoxy four hours ago... Oh well... at least I haven't flown it yet. I recall wondering why the manual stated to use CA, but didn't feel like digging up my slo-set epoxy...

Ah well... it's easy enough to remedy... so should I try to get the CA to release, or am I better off just ordering a new control rod?


--
Helicopters & Women: The last thing I want is one whose head has a few loose screws.
06-08-2008 05:44 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
HiroboFreak
Senior Heliman
Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia

Use some heat on the metal control rod & the CA wil let go pretty easily.

Then redo it with epoxy after it has cooled down.

Synergy N9 | T600n Pro
06-08-2008 10:14 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Rymps
Senior Heliman
Location: Windsor CO and Indy

Don't for get the metal rods need to be skuffed up with some sand paper or hit with a file lightly. The sratches give the glue something to hold on to.
06-08-2008 04:47 PM
 
 
RyanW
Veteran
Location: Stillwater, Oklahoma

I have had three pull out on me. Two with CA (same weekend) and one with epoxy.

I only use JB Weld period. It is the only thing that I have found to secure metal and carbon for the long haul.

I also sleeved the end control rods with a brass tube because they were very prone to splitting on the Synergy, no matter which adhesive you used.
06-09-2008 05:00 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
sso2112
Heliman
Location: Schaumburg IL

Same here CA pulled out ....
06-09-2008 09:16 PM
 
 
Bart B
Veteran
Location: Synergy alley

I've been flying all along with ca on mine and never a problem
What's the easiest way to remove the pin with ca?

....that's what I'm talkin' about!
06-09-2008 09:34 PM
 
 
Marshall Burrou
Senior Heliman
Location: Maumelle, Arkansas

Use CA remover. Just keep putting some on it and let it set for 10 to 15 minutes. It will take awhile to soak and soften it up. Mine are in with ca but I also used heat shrink tubing on the outside with ca attaching it to the link and the cf rod. I don't really think it will come loose that way! This should pervent it from splitting as well.

I wouldn't trust just CA alone without additional support on the outside. I've seen them come loose before.


CurtisYoungblood.com
06-09-2008 11:22 PM
 
 
Futura SE
Veteran
Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas

I did just like Marshall. I used medium CA on the threaded insert rod, but after it dried, I put ca on the carbon rod and threaded rod and put heat shrink over it all. The heat shrink is shrunk and glued in place and is holding as well.

Most of you guys never built planes obviously. For a bullet proof setup get a roll of thread. CA the threaded rod in and then take the thread and wrap the carbon rod and threaded rod some and then take thin CA and soak the thread. It will NEVER EVER, EVER pull out then. This is how we made links for planes years and years ago. Completely secure. Put a piece of heat shrink over it and it looks great and is the most secure connection you will ever get.

Norman Ross Jr.
06-10-2008 04:12 AM
 
 
pariah
Senior Heliman
Location: West Valley City, UT - United States of America

I'll readily admit that I must be missing something - are you wrapping the (textile) thread around the (metal) threads, and then inserting it, and letting the glue wick into place, or is the (textile) thread only on the outside of the rod?

I recall seeing the thread-wrapping trick on a few airplanes, but that was around a fairly soft wooden rod; not a carbon rod. Wood gives a lot more than carbon does, and it's easy to see how the thread would increase the 'holding power' of a wooden joint.

But carbon is a much stiffer material; the only result I can see wrapping thread around the ends is that it will be more difficult to split the carbon around the (metal) threaded rod. I don't see how wrapping string around the outside can increase the strength of the bond between the carbon and the metal rod.

It seems to me that the linear shear strength would be unchanged; only orthogonal shear strength would be increased, and that's not particularly interesting in a pushrod.

So what am I missing?


--
Helicopters & Women: The last thing I want is one whose head has a few loose screws.
06-10-2008 07:16 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Tail Rotor Ctrl Tube
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