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Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Spectra Kit arrived
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
MOST importantly use a heat gun on the bolts and wait until they get hot and they will turn out with plenty of ease. Stripping of the heads comes when people don't heat them and try to horse them out.

I did know that - but getting the heat gun out and using it on the dining room table (I've borrowed a huge heli-room) wasn't going to be looked at with the same smile-at-the-simple-idiot-who-plays-with- his-toys from she-who-must-be-obeyed

So I tried it this way first and got those screws out first go each (apart from the wrench snapping) heads all fine. It was the darned plug that Mr Sumo torqued in with venom and took my weight on a 2 foot socket bar to shift!

Does that mean you knew about the washer on the paper and waited for me to not find it?

I'll order the dupro tank.. petrol bung.. can get it locally.. the clunk would have to come from US ..more delays and postal costs so may go with stock short term while it arrives.

Got other necesary bits (hopefully) in the post so there will be a delay while they arrive unless I rob Preddie..his repair parts also in post (who says you can't get century spares? shh.. they may not all be in the parcel..)

pgk
06-11-2008 04:19 PM
 
 
Fixit
Key Veteran
Location: UK

Quote 
Fuel with return line, drain with carb line at the end of the day.
Raja do you drain all the fuel out or leave a drop in, I'm using a felt clunk and I was told to leave some fuel in the tank and not let the clunk dry out is this right or wrong?
Cheers
06-11-2008 09:31 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
<<Raja do you drain all the fuel out or leave a drop in, I'm using a felt clunk and I was told to leave some fuel in the tank and not let the clunk dry out is this right or wrong?>>

Do you plug the lines to stop the odour?

I also notice dubro do a felt clunk which I ordered.. good idea or not?

pgk
06-11-2008 09:35 PM
 
 
GyroFreak
Key Veteran
Location: Florida ... 28° 50' N 81° 16' W

I always leave fuel in my tank to keep the clunk wet. Sometimes I have gone as much as a month without starting it and never had any problems yet in over a year with my gasser (fuel related, that is.).

Support bacteria. They're the only culture some people have. !
06-11-2008 09:38 PM
 
 
xcellgasman101
Elite Veteran
Location: WOODWARD, OKLA....

Which filter pgk???,, some of the felt filters can plug up quickly,,XGM/VGM

Quote 
Do you plug the lines to stop the odour?

Just back in the inlet on the carb, and return inlet!!!

John Crotts
www.soonerhelicamproductions.com
06-11-2008 09:38 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
GyroFreak
Key Veteran
Location: Florida ... 28° 50' N 81° 16' W

Quote 
Do you plug the lines to stop the odour?


I don't since I use camper fuel which has no odor like petrol. I carry in my car on hot summer days, and in the house in my shop and no-one has ever comented on any oder.

Support bacteria. They're the only culture some people have. !
06-11-2008 09:40 PM
 
 
xcellgasman101
Elite Veteran
Location: WOODWARD, OKLA....

I have a gasser in my bedroom, and the wife never complains,, She knows better!!!!!! XGM/VGM

John Crotts
www.soonerhelicamproductions.com
06-11-2008 09:42 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Fixit
Key Veteran
Location: UK

Quote 
I also notice dubro do a felt clunk which I ordered.. good idea or not?

I’m using the same felt clunk on my gassers and the first time you use them they can give off fluff and block the carb filter so now I just soak them in fuel for a few hours and then lightly brush the outside with a tooth brush to remove the fluff first,I haven’t had any problems since.
I tend to bung up the vent line with a bolt when I’m transporting and storing the heli to stop spillage and the smell.
06-11-2008 09:53 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
Which filter pgk???,, some of the felt filters can plug up quickly,,XGM/VGM

http://www.mikes-models.co.uk/index...7d9b93666297baf

pgk
06-11-2008 11:14 PM
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Build thread - the rest of today

OK, we;re just follwoing the manual order..earlier message gives links to that online and we've dialed the fan at the end of the last report.

Next comes putting the fan shroud together, adding the first baseplate and then supposedly a carb guard and the throttle ball lever. I've switched the carb manifold for the cnc one with teflon gaskets. I donlt see any benefit to mounting the carb right now so left off fitting it's lever too. The carb guard bothers me a bit. It's a small sheet of carbon presumably to keep you from burning fingers? There is absolutely no comment in the manual about a gsket from carb to its manifold and I'd have thought it neede done each side of the guard? Points lost for not telling the ignorant builder what to do. I left the guard off unles you tell me otherwise.

Mounting the fan shroud is routine

Orientation of the mounting for the baseplates is fun. Even with Raja's warning it just doesnt look obvious which way round it should go. That heavy carbon baseplate cleverly looks symmetrical.. a real job of optical illusion until you put a ruler on it. Three pieces of carbon that could be put on two ways gives some interesting maths to mull over. Or you just try the combinations

Aparts from the issues Profwiz had with his basepate clearnace on the Preddie it was a doddle for me on that bit but I concede that the heavy carbon part looks cool on Speckie.

Then there are the so-called ladders at each end .. the arrangement for mounting to the upper frame. Not entirely sure why MinAir felt it necessary to make them different. Visually better perhaps but no-one would notice if they were identical and designed to allow fittin any way around and allow the plug and lead to pass. It would have saved on different parts.

There was nothing difficult about this section.. just a plod.

It finishes with mounting the skid set. Both Speckie and Preddie require holes drilling here. Seems a nuisance getting drills out just for 4 holes that could have been done for you.

Preddies skids and tubes look better in my opinion..much more solid but Speckie actually has plugs for the ends! Wow - not that impressive , they look tacky.

You could probably do better sticking a set of Align 600's on there - the tubes would look nicer and so would the plugs.

There is also the option of using the pull start as a removable. Its the gasser way to start it. I'm guessing that sooner or later i forget to take it off or leave it at the field when I go home. Of course none of you would do that!

It also becaome obvious that mating the two halves here involves adjusting the engine position on the basplate. The engine mounts in slots for that possibility. On Preddie the slots are on the upper frame. I'll give the points to Speckie on this because the slots in the baseplate are in 4mm carbon instead of Preddies 2mm side frames.

We'll find how easy that is to sort on the next build session. I had most of today off and it was windy.. tomorrow I actually have to work again <shock horror>

pgk
06-11-2008 11:39 PM
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

I drain all the fuel out

Every time and purge the carb dry as well. Have not had any ill effects doing so and this way there is less gas to evaporate and make smells though I keep them in the basement (cool) and there is no smell to be detected anyways.

Also, if you go to work on it in the basement you don't want fuel in the tank. I've forgotten some in there before (like a 1/4 tank), and start flipping the heli over end over end to do some work and all of a sudden you may find a puddle of fuel dropping out of the tank Wipe if quick before the Mrs. smells it and bitches, and throw the paper towel outside in the garage garbage as the kitchen garbage is a NO NO for that -- guess who will yell when they smell GAS in the kitchen!

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
06-11-2008 11:43 PM
 
 
xcellgasman101
Elite Veteran
Location: WOODWARD, OKLA....

pgk,, this is the one most are useing,, XGM/VGM
http://smallengines.ca/ecom.asp?pg=...946&gotopgnum=1

http://www.mowtownusa.com/72.html?s...OgcCBBJZ7FDl7-K

John Crotts
www.soonerhelicamproductions.com
06-12-2008 12:03 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
pgk,, this is the one most are useing,, XGM/VGM
was aware but not available uk and cost more to post than value..so thought I'd try my option..

Or you could bring one with you......

pgk
06-12-2008 12:32 AM
 
 
Fixit
Key Veteran
Location: UK

Vario UK sell this one
http://www.mowtownusa.com/m5_view_i...OgcCBBJZ7FDl7-K

but look at the price we have to pay

http://gb.vario-helicopter.biz/shop...oducts_id=33302
06-12-2008 12:43 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

Conceivably

I could buy a filter for you guys here locally and ship it to England. I've shipped stuff there before and US mail for small items is not way too expensive. May take a week+ to get there but it might be cheaper than buying from a vendor direct, who knows...

If anybody wants me to do that I'll be glad to take care of it.

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
06-12-2008 01:50 AM
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
If anybody wants me to do that I'll be glad to take care of it.

It's a kind offer, Raja. I'll let you know if that's needed. We get used to buying lots of stuff abroad because of the prices here.

pgk
06-12-2008 07:54 AM
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Build thread - swash and washout

I've skipped ahead because i had a short bit of free time but not the feeler gauges to hand and the tank is on order - it gets something done.

The swash is stiff, there's some chatter marks from assembly on an inner ring and frankly it wasn't what i expected. Preddie's swash is old fashioned in looks but spins freely. This one doesn't and comes with 4 set screws to adjust should you need to take up any play.

I felt like tossing into a jar of spirit to rinse out and see if that would help.. but we're following the build guide here.

Now to be fair I wasn't building Preddie with the same critical eye..but again to be fair I did make enough criticisms at the time. And I want to (well actually need to) like them both.

Assembling the swash with it's balls is mindless stuff - just has to be done. Preddie came pre-made up and just needed testing for security. Time will tell which holds up best.

The washout. Well, sorry anyone who gets offended, but it's just plain nasty. Getting the balls in straight isn't easy - they get forced in through the wrong side - in the sense that the pilot hole is so tiny you can't get a start by hand that is going to be guaranteed perpendicular. Be sure it is before you drive it home with a dab of CA.

Then the washout arms. Now who thought up the use of circlips that would grace the second hand of a ladies dress watch? Who said you Americans don't have a sense of humour? I reckon this was dreamt up by someone who overdid the partying in the 60's and took too much of the good stuff.

I proved it is possible to assemble it and still keep the spare circlip. BUT even when it's done by the book you end up with something you really don't want to put on an expensive heli.

I wonder if trex 700 parts will fit?

Preddie wins this round.

pgk
06-12-2008 04:54 PM
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

Bringing back memories

Yes those c-clips are hard to push over the pins. After some experience I've sort of learned the right technique to install them. I use a small tiny socket wrench (Weeha brand) to push/tap them on. Minair recognizes they are hard to assemble and gives you a spare one in case one goes flying across the room! Have no fear though, this part will last forever on the heli, well nothing is forever but for quite a long time lets say that.

It makes things easier if you take the x-acto knife and twirl the tip around in the tiny hole to take out the flashing before installing the ball. Install the ball first, remove it, add CA, and reinstall rather than trying to install it with CA the first time and glue your fingers together.

The indents you see on the inner ring of the swash are intentional. They hold the inner ring in place. Again, swashplates last forever, unless you damage one in a crash you'll never have to buy another.

You're good on the negative feedback, give me some positives on the next round!

Let me add advice beforehand instead of afterwards:

For the fuel tank, use slivers of tygon tubing as o-rings under the nipples to make a good seal. I use the "lost screw finder tool" to grab the nipple with the fingers and insert it into the dubro tank from the mouth end. Then poke the nipple though the hole in the tank, grab it with your finger and release the lost screw finder tool (not sure what its called besides this). Then screw in the nipple as much as you can with your finger, grab it with the ball link plyers rounded cutout, and use a monkey wrench to tighten the nut on the outside. Another tip, screw the nipple from the outside of the tank into the tank for easy access and to thread the hole in the plastic first, so it will be easier to do it later with your finger tips while it being inserted from the inside out.

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
06-12-2008 06:44 PM
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Quote 
You're good on the negative feedback, give me some positives on the next round!

Actually think I've been quite fair.. there have been some huge positives and I've highlighted them (that orgasmic clutch!). Reality is we expect it all to be OK so it's only the really good and anything bad that get mentioned. And my personal experience only goes to this, the Preddie and my 600 and 450.

I call it as I see it

Thanks for the tank tips.. should be here in a day or two.

pgk
06-12-2008 07:21 PM
 
 
pgkevet
Senior Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Raja, please explain this

So I found a feeler guage and had a go at mating the top and bottom parts as per the manual. It didnlt make any difference where I tapped the engine mounting to - fore or aft or in between the gap at the front is still sl more than the back between fan and clutch driver. And that situation remains even with turning the motor through the angles from below.

So I undid the bottom ladder screws. That allows the whole top to rotate on the fan and sit naturally. It made no difference to the relationship.. still sl more angle fore than aft. AND more interestingly it does allow rotation.

THAT measn that bolting through the base plate is pulling the top down onto the bottom.. presumably compressing the damper rubbers.

To my logic (right or wrong?) the fact that engine travel no longer applies when the bottom ladder nuts are removed means that engine position isn;t the cause of the angle here. The only rational source of distorsion in the build ought to be the engine casting?

If I shim under the aft ladder then everything lines up.

Is this a valid solution? at the moment the ladders are still free.

Or is there another answer?

pgk
06-12-2008 09:44 PM
 
 
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Model Rectifier Corp . PowerHelis . JR-Spektrum

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Spectra Kit arrived
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