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HIROBO Freya - Sceadu - Shuttle > Evo 90 head mixing arm settings for 3d

hornet dave
Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

I updated the spreadsheed to make it a little easier to read. PM me if you want a copy.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters

06-20-2008 03:12 PM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

legend, thanks guys. Jafa, are you heading down for a fly today with Mark? going down to test it out, I have 7.5 degrees of cyclic at the moment with the radix 690's so looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Thanks Hornet Dave as well, appreciated

06-21-2008 12:18 AM

Agilefalcon
Veteran
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Sorry it took so long to post a picture of my mixing lever settings: Here they are.

Chris Berardi
MRC/Hirobo Representative
Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer

07-07-2008 01:43 AM

HOMEPAGE

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

thanks Chris, i'm running the same at the moment but the middle hole in the blade grips, it feels pretty fast. I'll try the 535 flybar next

07-07-2008 07:53 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Chris,

Have tested the settings and this thing is now very agile. Did the final change thismorning and moved the link on the blade grips to the outer hole and the heli is now very alive.

Thanks for your help. I've also heard people comment on the continuous rollrate of the Freya Evo (mentioned it was slow), mine seems to roll fine now, what do you do to make it roll continuously at the quickest rate possible? i'm running Radix 690's, CCPM and stock flybar length (490 I think) and no weights in the paddles. Will a longer flybar make the continous roll rate quicker or just make it feel more responsive up to full roll rate?

07-20-2008 04:00 AM

Agilefalcon
Veteran
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Hi Brendan;
The following will increase agility and aggressiveness:
The longer flybar (555mm): I find that you need some weight on the flybar at 555mm - 535 might be optimum with light paddles.

Replace pivot bolts "D" with the longer pivot bolts "E" on the swash plate.
Ensure you have plenty of swashplate travel fore-aft, left right. I do have a lot on mine but backed it off because I do not want any binding.

In addition, if you want more dynamic rainbow type maneuvers, you can move the bolt in to the middle of the 3 holes on the blade grip. You are shooting for about +/- 10.5 to +/-11 degrees of pitch. Then, couple this with a steeper transition in pitch around the "0" stick point in your pitch curve: That is, your negative and positive pitch ramp up a lot faster than if your (Stunt 1 or 2) pitch curve was a straight line from lower left to upper right.

The Freya can most definitely be set very aggessively with the Evo head, it just takes a combination of things because the tradition of Hirobo has been more to the precision maneuvers. The head is certainly programmable enough to make it a fairly simple process to change the feel of the model.

Plus, the Freya has terrific tail authority.

I have just ordered the 91 tooth main gear and am very excited to try this with my OS motor. I'll be able to multiply the torque of the motor and keep the head at a more pleasant 1850 to 1900 with the OS in its sweet spot.

I'll let everyone know what I think of the 11 tooth pinion and 91 tooth main gear (8.27:1, 1,850 head rpm).

Chris Berardi
MRC/Hirobo Representative
Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer

07-20-2008 11:39 PM

HOMEPAGE

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your awesome feedback again. I'm running the longer pivot bolts on the way up to the mixing arms but not to the washout base, i'll add them to the washout base as well. I'll order the 535 flybar and run it with the stock paddles with no weight as well.

I'm running the 8.27 ratio with a OS91SZH-PS on a hatori 939 pipe and it has bags of power now at 1950, just working on getting the thing as agressive as possible. It is very agile now but just trying to go for the fastest rolling heli I can make it. I have the CCPM kit installed as well. Definately have no problem with the tail power with the 105's. I'm having fun experimenting with this heli and getting it more and more agressive.

07-21-2008 01:07 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Chris,

Just checked, i'm actually running pivot bold EX (9mm) to the mixing arms, these are longer than the Pivot bolt E (7mm) and come with the CCPM kit. It mentions to run them to the washout arms but I have pivot E to the washout and EX to the mixing arms. I might try Ex all round, should give big throws.

Pivot EX
http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=2530010

Pivot E
http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=2530005

07-21-2008 03:03 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Guys,

Has anyone run pivot bolt E-EX from the inner swash to the mixing arms?? clearance is very small between the rod end and the out swash but doesn't look like it will hit (I did a flight with it the other day and gives a lot of throw). Just wondered if anyone else has done it?

In the instructions on the CCPM kit they only say to do it to the washout arms (I'm assuming because the rod end doesn't pivot around from the washout arms).

07-24-2008 01:12 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Chris,

I noticed in your pic above that you are using the longer ball links with the stand on them on the blade grips. This would reduce the delta on the Evo head a little and increase cyclic? would only be a couple of mm difference, or did you do it to give the rod end more clearance?

07-24-2008 06:10 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

anyone? ..................

07-24-2008 11:23 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Well, I inspected the clearance closely myself and lucky!! the links actually graze the otter swash ring slightly if the link is moved to different angles. Would probably be ok if you has the link spot on 90 degrees to the top rod end, but any movement coul be disaster. This is why they say to only use the E-EX pivot bolts to the washout arms and not the mixing arms from the swash I think. Back to the E pivot bolts!

I'll run the E-EX to the washout at least to increase the throw there. Will also run the standoff ball link ends on the blade grips like Agilefalcon to reduce the delta slightly.

07-25-2008 12:59 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Well, I may as well keep posting my test results on this thread. I test flew my Evo with the new settings (standoff ball on the blade holders, type E pivot bolts on the swash all round) and the Freya does crisp aileron tic-tocs now without any hassle.

I also did an experiment with blades between the Radix 690's and the Carbontech/rotortech 3d 690 blades. I flew the heli then immediately changed them so I could tell the difference. The Carbontech/rotortechs had slightly more lift and quicker cyclics than the radix, but bogged a little easier(only marginally) and not quite as smooth in the air as the radix. Overall, the carbontech/rotortechs are awesome.

Will be putting the 535mm flybar on this week and that will be the final test apart from moving the ball from the outer hole to the inner hole on the blade grips with the final setup, just to see the difference.

The Freya has really come alive now.

07-28-2008 11:21 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Hornet Dave,

Have you tried your settings vs the settings that Chris Beard has recommended? i'm going to give your settings a try on the weekend to see how different the heli feels. I've got no weights in the paddles, the 80 dampers, Radix 690's and the 535mm flybar with stock paddles. I tried the Carbontech/Rototech blades on the weekend and they are slightly quicker in Cyclic and have more punch in the lift department but if I try the above two settings with the same blades I can get a feel for the difference.

I'm also having a bit of trouble with Chris's settings and getting the Washout arms level at centre stick and still getting max cyclic movement, will keep experimenting.

07-30-2008 02:47 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Current head setup. Have just converted the flybar to the 535mm one so hopefully get a chance to test that today.

07-31-2008 12:20 AM

hornet dave
Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

Brenden -

I'm sure you have your heli setup a bit more aggressively than mine by now. With your setup, you should easily be able to bog the motor by just doing a sustained flip or roll, probably one flip per second while stationary. Mine probably does one flip in 1.5 - 2 seconds.

I just measured the pitch i'm running and it's only 7 degrees cyclic and 12 degrees collective. I didnt realize the cyclic pitch was so low on this heli, it just motivates me to do a project i've been thinking about for the last year which will get me another degree or so of both cyclic and collective.

Here's a couple pictures, one shows my washout assembly at zero pitch (the washout arms are not horizontal at all) and another shows the flybar cage deflection at max cyclic. The way mine is set up, at full negative pitch, the links that go to the flybar cage hit against the jesus bolts at full cyclic deflection, and at full positive pitch, the washout arms just about hit the swashplate when I give it full cyclic.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters

07-31-2008 02:26 AM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Hornet Dave,

Been away on holidays for 10 days and am back. How did you go with your cyclic project?? i'm going to resume testing in the next week but it's flipping very fast at the moment with the new flybar and the middle hole on the grips, i've got to be care with cyclic and collective at the same time however!! really happy with the way the heli is performing now

08-11-2008 07:08 AM

hornet dave
Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

I've been away for a week myself, I haven't gotten to it yet. I crashed my micro a couple times and that sort of took up my free time in the meantime.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters

08-11-2008 12:34 PM

Brendan78
Senior Heliman
Location: Cronulla, NSW Australia

Hi Dave,

What were you planning on doing to get the extra degree??

08-18-2008 07:33 AM

hornet dave
Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

I'm just going to drill a new hole in the mixer. If you are using the middle hole in the blade grip now, it would give me the same amount of cyclic/collective throw that you have but with a .82 flybar ratio.

I just looked at the price of the ssz-4 head imported from japan and it's a little cost prohibitive at the moment.

I need to speed up my evo. After being at IRCHA, I saw that my heli was kind of slow in comparison to a lot of the other 90's. I guess I'll finally have to try that longer flybar, different mixers, maybe some stubz, who knows. My collective range isn't too bad, I could use another half degree each way, but the cyclic is really the culprit at the moment. I have resisted until now because finding a setup that flies perfectly in FFF while still having a reasonable cyclic speed is tough to do but i'll start the process.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters

08-18-2008 04:03 PM

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