Electronicsdude
New Heliman
Location: Tuscaloosa, Al - USA
| Hey,
Yeah I started with the stock gyro and it held.......OK. Needless to say I changed it out with a GY240. A lot of people change theirs out with a GY401 but for some reason the GY240 has been an absolute dream compared to the stock gyro. I did have the heli hovering but I had to give ever so slight inputs every 3 to 5 seconds to hold the tail. The reason I went with the GY240 and not the 401 was because I already had one from my first "electric" powered heli - (I've been flying Heli's since the first Concept 30 came out from Tower Hobbies a long long time ago!!) I started the electric game with the Axe CP Pro - and I would still be flying it if they would ever get their crap together and get a Lipo battery back to me! Anyway, to answer your question in full, yes, it can and will hold just keep adjusting your Tx in increments of .5 in the sw-gyro setting. I think mine was set to about 63.5 with the stock gyro. Don't know if you are on the normal or stunt setting but be sure that you are adjusting the right one - (not to say that you are but I was stupid enough to be adjusting the wrong one scratching my head and saying.......duh!!) I would, however, suggest replacing it with a GY401 - I think it's a little more (maybe 20 bucks) than the GY240 but you can adjust it just like you adjust your stock gyro from the Tx. I love the way the GY240 holds my 400 but others say that they haven't had much luck with it and instead went with the 401. Dunno. Hopefully, this helps and I'm sorry if it didn't. Also, I race R/C Nitro cars and just happened to have an On/Off switch left over in my parts bin, I mounted that to the positive lead on the ESC so I could plug in my battery with the ability to turn it on and off with a switch instead of jerking the leads trying to turn it off - just a suggestion - I can send pics if you would like to do the same. Lemme know. |
You can break the circuit on either the positive or the negative as long as you on break one of the two. Also, I figured that with the amount of current this thing draws it could arc across the swich poles so I tried to solder them as far apart as I could. This switch is just a single pole, double throw On/Off switch that came off of a Jato 3.3 so I figured if it could handle the current load of those two large servos and all the other electronics I have installed then it could handle this application, and so far has worked well. It is mounted with double sided tape and I have yet to have any problems with that, either - "knock on wood." Lemme know if you need more clarification. "Electronicsdude" does repair electronics so if anyone needs anything - I'll be glad to help out any way I can
I had to fix my first E-Board the other day from the Heli-Max - I hate that thing!!
