Spitfire1 Senior Heliman Location: Perth Australia
| theres a lot of good things to think about on this post, but i would just like to throw a few things out there and see if anyone thinks just crap or not..
1. (try to think how to explain this pleae bare with me..) when my helis on the ground and my gyros in hh the red lights on solid ok, when I move my rudder on my tx the red light goes of, which Ime assuming is correct as if my understanding is right on this if im putting in a tail input to turn the (([B]hh turns off to allow me to turn)) am I correct here??. If this is the case what im saying is my TX rudder stick is so sensitive that simply touching the stick with almost any pressure at all wil cause the gyro to turn of HH, ive found putting expo on the rudder makes no difference as the gyro still detects the stick movement. What im saying is that there is no human on the face of this planet who could operate the collective smoothly enough without touching the rudder ever so slightly enough to make it not go out of HH on my TX. Is this normal? or if not any suggestions. Perhaps check your own gyro first to see how little pressure needs to be aplied to make the gyro turn of HH, you may be surprised, on my one simply touching the top of the stick will be enough. This could be just normal I dont know Also im a bit wary of putting up the head speed as I think the main gear on my HDX 500 is a bit of a weak point, ive set my idle up2 to 100 90 80 90 100, but yesterday I did some flips with 9 deg +and- as a post to 10 deg -and+ with my curves 100 80 80 80 100 and out of about 3 or 4 flips my tail held ok, so I am thinking that to go for any more than 10 deg I may need a 25 or 30c battery pack. thank everyone for the good advice.
P.S.. on speeding up flip and roll rates, does anyone know how much degrees of cyclic swash movement is too much assuming theres no binding, ive heard 10 degrees bandied around but is there a point thats too much and will cause damage???
Even us oldies can Heli. Chris. Perth Australia |