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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Real Raptors

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > got a used Pgasser, questions
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

I think I have most of it figured out, but an odd thing, on the blades, there is a rubber O ring under them because they are a different size than the grips, is this normal? Seems cheesy to me. They are 710 mah blades.. On my other birds Ive been able to set the amount of drag in the grips, not that easy wtih this rubber washer... feels weird.

Also, how much freewheel does your main rotor have when you pull the pull starter? (No I have not run it yet, but it has been run before I got it)

Thank you.

www.3dfoamy.com
05-01-2008 05:59 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

I don't like the sound of that, proceed with caution..I always tell folks when you buy a used gassers, you need to take it down , even the head on the engines, that way you know you have a better chance of success...
1, or 2 mm washers are suppose to be between those blades, not o-rings...
Be sure to do the oring mod for the auto hub...
Bill
05-01-2008 06:30 AM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

Hmm, O ring mod? This is a couple month old NX, which has hardly been used, and looks brand new.

Ill hit the parts store looking for washers tomorrow then.

www.3dfoamy.com
05-01-2008 06:33 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

<<Be sure to do the oring mod for the auto hub...>>

I'm just starting to build mine.. and freely admit I read your bits but didn't really understand them..(just accept I'm an idiot) - hope it'll be a tad more clear when I've got the bits together enough to start looking like a heli...if I ever get the last screw out of the Zenoah base plate

Hope you don't mind me coming back to you on that if (when) I still don't understand??

pgk
05-01-2008 07:38 AM
 
 
j.8
Senior Heliman
Location: Denmark

Hi pgkevet

"when I've got the bits together enough to start looking like a heli...if I ever get the last screw out of the Zenoah base plate"

If that screw is still stock in the base plate, try to
put the screwdriver on to the screw and then tap the screwdriver
with a hammer, in most cases that will help


Regards Bo
05-01-2008 11:45 AM
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

<<try to put the screwdriver on to the screw and then tap the screwdriver with a hammer, in most cases that will help>>

Aftre messing about for an hour or so last night I decided to go the stress-free route and beg favour from ocal garage.. they got it out in under a minute, apparently.. and the junior mechanic is a gasser plank nut who also has a raptor and an 8-acre field.. so a real result

pgk
05-01-2008 02:37 PM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

I searched for this O ring mod, can someone link me please?

Thanks

www.3dfoamy.com
05-01-2008 02:58 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

oring spacer mod...Its in this thread...

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t426711p1/
05-01-2008 07:46 PM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

Thank you Bill.

Also, amount of free wheel on the clutch, if I pull the pull starter, should the head move? Appears tight to me, as it does.



And another question, what are you guys using for fuel line in the tank that will go from top to bottom? I have black neupreme, but its not flexible enough to go to both top and bottom of the tank, for inverted flight..

www.3dfoamy.com
05-01-2008 08:23 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

Quote 
Also, amount of free wheel on the clutch, if I pull the pull starter, should the head move? Appears tight to me, as it does.

If you have no freewheel on the clutch, you have something seriously wrong. Can you spin the main rotor by hand or does it appear to be locked up?

After landing my Preditor and shutting off the motor, the main rotor freewheels for at least 30 seconds. It spins very free.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-01-2008 11:39 PM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

main rotor spins very free, its the clutch dragging when I pull on the pull starter, not normal obviously, will it wear in? or should I take it apart too.

www.3dfoamy.com
05-01-2008 11:42 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

My Preditor runs at a pretty fast idle before the clutch engages. If it were mine, I'd take it apart and check the clearance between the shoe and liner. Maybe the liner has come loose? There's definately a problem if it has any drag on it at all.


I might add, by spinning the main rotor ccw, it engages the clutch. If you can't turn the rotor ccw or the clutch drags, I'd check into it. My clutch spins very freely when turning the the rotor backwards. There shouldn't be any difference in doing this than pulling the engine thru with the pull cord.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-02-2008 01:26 AM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

So I took it apart to check it out, and yes, the clutch is off, far enough I can see it move easily with the naked eye out of alignment, Ill be tinkering on it tonight. Also, the two screws on the bottom of the main shaft (I was trying to get the mainshaft off last night) one the head stripped, the previous owners used good locktite aparently lol, so now I have it at work to get apart..

I will say, the manual for this bird is crap, Ive built Xcells and Raptors, but this thing is just missing too much info for me, and Im very mechanically inclined. I do look forward to flying this thing, Ive flown one in the past and it was awesome, so I know the bird is good.

Thanks.

www.3dfoamy.com
05-06-2008 05:04 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
copperclad
Elite Veteran
Location: ..

hi
i have a Predator i picked up used also , and it had some previous builders issues as yours does , there are a few good build threads here and on the Century forum , and the Century machines need a little more patience to work on at first , but they do fly very nice , and are well worth the trouble

mine came with the carburetor bolts into the intake manifold set with RED LOCTITE , i had to use the 32 tooth screw driver to coax them out , i intended to use a Z-RC manifold anyway , and binning what was left of the plastic one was no loss , honestly , i enjoy those kinds of issues , and after the machine is back together and flying , you can have a great sense of accomplishment , and some money in your pocket ,

keep us posted on your progress , dana
05-06-2008 07:52 PM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

You mean the century forum here on RR? or is there another one? Thanks! Ill keep updates if anyone is interested.. I hope I can get by without having to replace much more stuff. Im amazed at how far out the clutch is, hopefully it will go back to spec! And I have to get that main gear to stay in one place.. Its all little easy stuff, I dont know why the origional builder didnt do it right the first time. This is why I like to buy new and do it myself I guess typically.

Thanks
J

www.3dfoamy.com
05-06-2008 08:03 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

buying used is not a bad thing, just be prepared to tear it down to nuts and bolts and build it as if it were a new kit.

...yep...
05-06-2008 08:11 PM
 
 
copperclad
Elite Veteran
Location: ..

hi J
yes , there is a Century forum also
http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/f48p1/

it has a build thread by AGRAV8 ,

Century Gasser Buildup - by AGRAV8 , they have it stickied near the top
, dana
05-06-2008 08:12 PM
 
 
Billme
Key Veteran
Location: MS

Buying used is ok, you just need to take any machine down to make sure its safe..
Once you get accustom to the machine, it will be easy to manage..

The auto hub o-ring mod was the last bug to find on this machine, and it really does improve the performace the way it was meant to be.
Makes tuning a non issue..

The o-ring mod should also be done on the glow predators as well

Bill
05-07-2008 02:34 AM
 
 
JETMAN
Senior Heliman
Location: WA

Ok, Ill put an Oring in between the gears tomorrow since I have it apart now, I have to try to find a spacer to put on top of the lower mainshaft bearing, took mine apart and noticed that it didnt have one in there at all.. And I played with the clutch runout, and got it into .02 or so on the main parts, the two shoes are on their own...

www.3dfoamy.com
05-07-2008 03:04 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

Oring

This o-ring that you guys are talking about is something readily available from Minair. Not sure if its the right diameter but here is the part number (0866-11) and link for it:

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?

Its actually a teflon o-ring and two of those are used to assemble the sprag gear (one above, one below) - basically the same idea Bill is trying to do with the Predator gear. You can see a picture of the assembly on Rick's rcheli site, click on plans and check out the 99se plans mainshaft page. There is also shims (0866-10) that can take out further play if needed.

Hope this helps,

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
05-07-2008 04:04 AM
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2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ]562 viewsPOST REPLY
Mikado Modellhubschrauber . GrandRC . CanoMod

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > got a used Pgasser, questions
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