RunRyder - Swift 620 vibration issue.. Any ideas

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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Swift 620 vibration issue.. Any ideas

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

Every thing in the heli is new and it also does it some times on spool up, i'm thinking that it's doing something weird .anyways i need to swap in the hv85 so i can run it on 12s.I just trtyed it on 10s first to see what the headspeed would be and my calculations wre pretty close on 10s it runs 1900 so on 12s it should be 2250 to 2300.i'm putting the century esc in my swift 16 that is currently 8s,that's were i got the hv85 from.If the problem follows i'll know for sure then.if not i havn't got a clue.i have 19 helis and never seen a chicken dance like this before.

05-04-2008 04:03 AM

shooter75
Senior Heliman
Location: Woodland Hills, Ca

I know its the weirdest thing. Im hoping my slightly bent shaft has something to do with it but I really don't think so. I know one thing for sure I will be running wood blades and plastic tail blades until I figure this problem out!!!!!! LOL Its to damn expensive replacing CF mains and tails!!!!!

05-04-2008 04:06 AM

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

my heli is brand new out of the box.my thinking is that the brake is kicking in .witch gives me an idea. the new 85hv century esc didn't come with any instructions, so i used the the instructions off the web for the 80 amp.maybye the programing is different on this one and I've inadvertanly pragramed it to one of the planker modes with brake.what do you think, worth a try?

05-04-2008 04:15 AM

shooter75
Senior Heliman
Location: Woodland Hills, Ca

I honestly think its mechanical and not electronic. My vibrations started on spool up, so that would have nothing to do with the brake. I really don't know either. Im pretty sure it mechanical though.

05-04-2008 04:19 AM

Pistol_Pete
Elite Veteran
Location: Tampa Bay non-Buccaneer

FWIW...
>ESC and vibrations are two worlds apart,

>an enabled brake setting mainly "robs" from your flying time.

Quote
I did roll it on my glass table and I indeed saw light when rolled.

Quote
Im hoping my slightly bent shaft has something to do with it but I really don't think so

doubting yourself? you know what you have to do.

Quote
Well I bought this bird here on RR and i was told that it was brand new never flown and only assembled, but I think he was full of SH#T!! I got the bird and the main blade grip arms were bent and also the fly bar control arms were bent. I assumed the main shaft was straight! You know what happens when you assume right???

Indeed those photos are indicative of a crash....did you update the feedback you left that person?

<><>...the lunatic is in my head...<><>

05-05-2008 12:29 PM

HOMEPAGE

shooter75
Senior Heliman
Location: Woodland Hills, Ca

Well he kinda stepped up to the plate and replaced two items. So I just didn't leave any feedback at all.

05-05-2008 04:56 PM

Pistol_Pete
Elite Veteran
Location: Tampa Bay non-Buccaneer

thats good news...and a good feedback is well deserved in my book for such...glad it all worked out.

<><>...the lunatic is in my head...<><>

05-07-2008 09:22 PM

HOMEPAGE

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

talked to heliworld today about the chichen dance among other things.
They said that you can't have your grips to tight on eletric 600's and that to loose grips will cause the chicken dance and also that if you prload the landing gear it helps alot.so tonight i'm going to install better landing gear and tighten my blades back up and if that doesn't do it i guess i'll just have to auto every landing.I need the practice any ways

05-09-2008 03:27 AM

Pistol_Pete
Elite Veteran
Location: Tampa Bay non-Buccaneer

Quote
i guess i'll just have to auto every landing.

you dont? come on...thats the second best part of flying...the third being taking your bird home in one piece

<><>...the lunatic is in my head...<><>

05-09-2008 04:02 PM

HOMEPAGE

oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Quote
i guess i'll just have to auto every landing

You don't have to. Just land in normal mode. Then once you are on the ground, hit hold and add a hair of pitch - in effect you will be chnaging the resonance.

05-09-2008 05:03 PM

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

I've just discovered how cool autoing in is.
I plan on doing alot more of from now on.
When i first started flying my hawks were not driven tail and that made me nervous for autos.
But now that most my heli's are driven it's a different story

Thanks old fart.I actully just thought of that after writeing my last post.
I am also planning on trying some different blades when they get here.

05-10-2008 02:02 AM

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

the chicken dance is gone.Hooray.
i installed stiffer and lower landing gear,whent through it again and redid the pitches and found the head had loosened on the mainshaft.
spool up and down is just fine without any special requirements.
now i can concentrate on getting some performance out of this tame stable easy flying heli.
I like my heli's radical and instant response.i'm sure some paddles and headspeed and bumping to 12 s from 10s should do it.plus i have some radix blades,and g5 pro widechord 600 and 620'sblades on the way that should spice it up

05-11-2008 06:08 PM

bellecrank
Veteran
Location: Canada

Have you tried the great Rotor Tech 610mm 3D blades?

05-12-2008 03:28 AM

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

they were out of stock ,so the answer is no ,not yet.
they make several different versions and with out any knowledge of this brand i don;t know witch ones to get.
Whats your recomendation?

is the part number cn266166c?i see those are instock at heliworld now.last time i looked they were cleaned out of every thing .

05-12-2008 03:53 AM

oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Here is a copy of part of a post I made in the blades section awhile ago explaining the RT blade numbers and what they designate:

"I have explained many times on this, and other forums, how their number designations can tell you what blade they are.

Basically if the last two numbers ar "01" they are the FAI type, if the last two numbers are "66" they are the 3D versions.

here is an example:

CN266001 - the 26 mean all carbon fiber, the 60 means a 60 cm (600mm) length and the 01 means FAI design

CN266166 - 26 means all carbon fiber, the 61 means 61 cm (610mm) length and the 66 means the 3D design."

Then there are the ones whose numbers end in "22" which are a general application SPORT blade. e.g. CN266022 - 26/Carbon Fiber, 60/60cm (600mm) and 22/general SPORT blade.

The ONLY 610's (CN266166) are for 3D.

A bit of confusion will creep in with the CN266101) which are actually 615mm FAI blades.

05-12-2008 06:33 PM

centuryman
Senior Heliman
Location: deerriver,mn usa

thanks oldfart.
I just had my buddy tach my swift 620 on 12s.
And if anybody is interseted it calculates out to 100% effecency on the ground and 98% in hover.
When i set it up i calculated 90% effecency on a 10 tooth pinion,44.4 volts and 565 kv and was expecting 2350 to 2400 headspeed.
Imagine my suprise when on the ground it tached 2650 and in hover 2540 and that's at 80% flat throttle curve in high govener on a castle hv85.
I have a 9 tooth pinion on the way.
So i guess there is something to this high voltage and higher effeciency thing.
I know i'm sold, the power on this thing is out of this world and run times are 5 plus minutes and once i pull the headspeed down they'll only get better.

05-13-2008 03:59 AM

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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Swift 620 vibration issue.. Any ideas

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