rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.
| Can I confuse the issue further?The way I would do it would be this:
Pitch curves UNPROGRAMMED, so, 0, inh, 50, inh, 100 in all modes including hold.
Mechanically setup the model so that you have 0 pitch at mid stick. On a 1005 this would mean that when collective is centered, aileron servo will be centered in its swing, bell cranks are at 90 degrees, mixing arms are level, swash is centered in its travel so elevator back and forth doesn't bind on the collars, pitch pivots on blade grips are level with ground. Then, with pitch ATV set at 100/100 you should have close to +/- 10 degrees, with +/- 5 degrees at 3/4 and 1/4 stick.
Set throttle ATV's to 130/130. Adjust servo horn distance so you get full travel. Start engine and adjust link so you get a reliable idle. Full down trim should kill the engine. 1/2 trim for idle. If pull power doesn't open the carb all the way, its OK. There should be a little play at the end so its not jamming the carb plate open. Anywhere between 90 to 100% open makes no difference in performance or power. I would say mine is about 1mm from full open.
Set throttle curves to something like 0, 20, 22.5, 25, 100 in normal, 100, 30, 25, 30, 100 in idle up 1 and 100, 32.5, 27.5, 32.5, 100 in idle up 2.
Hover the model in normal mode and it should be up in the air about 3/4 stick. Idle up 1 and 2 will change the stick slightly below 3/4 stick, but in all speeds and modes it should still be within 1 hash mark width on the TX stick for hover.
Lou is right, gassers hover around 5 degrees not 3. If you're hovering at 3 degrees then you're screaming way too fast.
Keep in mind, mixture settings affect throttle curves and changes your ideal numbers. I gave you a starting place on those. Also, the throttle linkage geometery does the same. More atv's like 130/130 work best with a gv-1 and keep the trim working for engine kill.
You should never change the pitch for hover. Keep the pitch LINEAR or unprogrammed as stated above. Just change the throttle curve to get the rpms you want.
When you get good, you can do full power climbouts and see what your engine can handle. If unloaded at full stick, then increase pitch ATV's to 110/110 or 120/120 to add more top end pitch, until you reach a point where its lugging but not bogging and back off 5 points.
When you get really good, repeat full power climbout but inverted. Observe engine load and climbout speed and adjust BOTH links to blades to change pitch settings in the blades so that it climbs out and loads the engine exactly the same inverted and upright. IGNORE all pitch guage readings at this point, in other words EVEN if it stays you have +10 and -12 at the ends, leave it. You want the performance as the final word, not bench setup. Bench setup is a starting point of +10/-10 and then field trials take over for fine tuning.
-=>Raja.
1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator |
