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Scale Model RC Helicopters > Bell 222 50 Build Thread

tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Century Bell 222 (funkey) 50 Build Thread

Hey guys,

***I have found VERY little information about the build on a bell 222. I will try to document mine as I go.***

Build here is with a Century/Fun-Key Bell 222 and a T-Rex 600N Sport.

I just got my fuse but have a question. I bought the unpainted 50 size which comes in gray. They talk about putting in the retracts but the majority of the wooden mounts are already mounted and glued into the fuse. It seems like it will be very difficult to put them in without extra stress.

Anyone here that bought the unpainted version... are the majority of the wooden mounts already in yours? Plus they don't look fuel proofed.

thanks
taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

03-27-2008 Over year old.

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tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Ok,

I got a chance to check it out more. I will add some pics later. It works just fine... It still does not look like they fuel proofed the wood but the system looks good.

Now just to figure out if I should get another T-Rex 600N sport or a Panthra 50 ???

taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

03-27-2008 Over year old.

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gadgetdude
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Taus,
I am also considering making this purchase. Was wondering what your initial thoughts are regarding the quality, size, etc? How long did it take for you t receive it? What options did you buy with it (lighting, retracts)?

03-27-2008 Over year old.

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tauscnc
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Location: This topic...for now...

Hey gadgetdude,

I bought mine from espritmodels. They had to order it from Century but I got it in about 2 weeks. No damage to the package which I was very happy about.

It's primed but not ready for paint. The joint lines need to be filled in and sanded, reprimed etc. Overall the fuse looks nice, good detail in the mold. I wish they had not build any of the wooden mounts nor mounted them in the chopper so I could of really made sure all retracts, etc work. Also the wood does not seem like it is fuel proofed...it can be done though the body, windows, etc but they should of done it since they pre mount it. No biggie, not a major project. The wood parts fit very well. I am going to add another brace for the main wheels across the bottom as I wonder on a hard landing if they might start to crack. Don't know but would rather not take the chance. The top fits almost perfectly, I have to push it up just a bit to mate with the fuse but again, minor adjustments.

The rear fin is also put together and I wish it was not...I can't brake it apart without really breaking it..I will just make another so I can put the rear light in. Maybe I will just cut a slot into it, put the wires in and bondo it back up...will see.

I had a set of retracts but they are just a bit to big. Instead of butchering the nice woodwork I ordered a pair tonight for it. I have not ordered any lights but plan to have a full set....either handmade or bought.

Overall, I really like it. I REALLY like that they cut all of the windows out..they are cut well. I did not "like it" at first, I think it was the grey paint but now as I put it together it really is starting to look pretty. I plan to make it quite scale so will see how that goes. They did not include any scale items with it.

I will also be posting the full build thread on my site at www.cuttingedgecnc.com

taus

03-27-2008 Over year old.

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GrantL
Senior Heliman
Location: Springfield, MA

Thanks for starting this build thread.. This is going to be my next build after I finish my Funkey Long Ranger..
http://runryder.com/helicopter/t396268p1/

Grant

03-28-2008 Over year old.

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gadgetdude
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Thanks a ton for all the detail. It really helps to see the detailed photography, especially the size as it relates to the Trex 600 in normal flight set up.

I think I am 98% committed to buy this fuselage, although I think I am going to go with a 'already painted' setup. It is too hard as it is to find time away from the wife and kids to get out in the garage an spend time priming, painting, detailing, etc, etc. Makes the wife a little jealous.

Look forward to seeing the progress.

03-28-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

Painted Bell 222

Here are a couple of shots of the pre painted one with Evo 50 mechanics.... and the retracts that I am doing up for a friend....
I did the same thing when I saw most of the wood installed, BUT it takes some time to figure out the proper orientation of the pushrods and lengths, but they work fine and it is not that hard to install them once you work with them a bit.... actually not a bad set up at all....

Good Luck,

Stan

If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about it!!!

03-28-2008 Over year old.

gadgetdude
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Just purchased one! Do I need a servo per wheel? What do you guys recomend?

03-28-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

Servo's

Yes it does take 3 servos as it comes.... and I have read a LOT of posts on people having problems even using "standard" servos....
I installed three "retract" servos and had no problems with travels or holding.....

Good Luck with your build....

Stan

If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about it!!!

03-28-2008 Over year old.

gadgetdude
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

What retract servos did you use? Brand, Model, etc. I would like to get something that is tried and true.

03-28-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

Servo's

I used the Hitec HS-75BB on this one..... and no problems....

Stan

If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about it!!!

03-28-2008 Over year old.

tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Man that pre-painted one is pretty!!! I see mine and see a lot of work ahead of me and I did not even make the mold or body

.

I am going to try standard type servos because I want to slow the speed down via the 9303 to 2 sec for full travel.

**** My biggest pet peeve on the Bell 222, and you guys might say otherwise, is the exhaust coming out the bottom. MINE HAS TO HAVE SCALE EXHAUST....(of course I say that now), but I promised myself if I have to make a muffler, etc it will have exhaust coming out of the exhaust vents.

Anyone know if there is a specifc epoxy that is to be used on the heli? The screens went in without a hitch using regualr CA as per manual.

Also I hear there are some different type of bondos to use. Any thoughts?

If anyone wants any specific photos just let me know and I post them.

thanks
taus

P.S. GrantL your ranger looks good!

03-29-2008 Over year old.

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tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

I just got my retracts, man they are small...well compared to the airplane ones I am used to seeing. They work well and are a drop in fit.

I just had a buzz kill, the JR 9303 only has slow servo speed on the airplane side!!!! Man that sucks! I don't see why a small servo like the older futaba S-133 can't move the retract. They are not that heavy. I will try it tonight (hopefully) and get back to ya.

Using 3 servos, endpoints, slowing them down, etc. might be tougher than expected...I might just make it to use 1 servo...not sure.

I decided on the heli. I stuck with the 600N. Already have one, know how it works, have parts, etc. I got the sport version.

Time to build some more!

taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

03-29-2008 Over year old.

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gadgetdude
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Haven't recieved my Fuselage yet but have been doing a ton of reading. I have ordered 3 HS-255BB servos with a 'Servo GoSlow' from JOMAR Products
http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6

The servos are regular size proportional servos. Not 'retract' specific. From what I understand that is the only thing that will work with a servo speed controller.

Also went ahead and ordered a 'Mini Flash Controller' from DIYRC.com. This is my second one. Really like how you can control the lighting sequence.

03-30-2008 Over year old.

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Gudmund
Heliman
Location: Ottawa, Canada

I also did some grumbling when I found out that, unlike the 10X aircraft radio, the JR 10X heli radio does not have the ability to slow down the movement of servos.

My solution is one of these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXPNV2&P=0 the Jomar Products goslow. Its output handles the servos for both the front and back retracts, and if you need to reverse one of them, it has that feature built in as well.

Gudmund

03-30-2008 Over year old.

tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Thanks guys, I will have to look into getting that servo slower. I see it takes 3 servos and one reverse so it should work great.

The real bell has nose wheel doors correct ?? ummmm now it gets complicated

Well I bought a 600N sport today and have it mostly built. The T-Rex 600N fits really well! I had to cut the rear blukhead to get it to move back more but the boom, tail case, etc fit really well. THERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM UP FRONT (especially if you don't use the front mount where the RX, battery, etc. goes for a FULL cockpit.

1)I have a pic of the frame in the body showing the rear bulkhead.
2)That is how much I have cut so far.
3)Now you can move it back enough and it all fits great!
4)Plenty of room for a cockpit
5)Just a pic to show the size of the retract compared to a 9252
6) Put some blades on just to see!

RETRACT NOTCHY
I found 1 retract was a tiny bit notchy on full up so I opened it up. Thought maybe a flashing had to be cut away. Amazing how simple the design is. I found the slider part was in upside down and would catch at the edge. One edge is straight and the other has a chamfer so it can glide smoothly. I flipped it over and all is great.

Picture 7: Chamfer side goes down.

It looks awesome!!!!!

taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

P.S. Hey gagdetdue, that DYIRC.COM is an awesome site!

03-30-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

Nice Job....

Looking real nice so far..... there is a lot of work even with the prepainted version.... the only thing missing is the prep and paint time....
You are SO right about the slo-go..... it will not work with retract servos....(ask me how we found out!!!!)
And using the standard type servo is what they show in the manual, but I wanted to make sure that we had a simple and reliable strong system, and the the 3 retract servos we have it.... and the run time on the servos is .45 at 4.8 volt and does not look bad at all....
I have another to build, so maybe we will try the standard servos on that one..... we'll see...

Keep those pic's coming..... Stan

If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about it!!!

03-30-2008 Over year old.

GrantL
Senior Heliman
Location: Springfield, MA

tauscnc.. Awesome job.. Thanks for the pictures.. My next build.

Grant

03-30-2008 Over year old.

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tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Thanks guys,

About Retracts Pics to come.

I am unsure why people say you need a very strong servo for the retracts. They are very smooth and the wheels are very light.

I wondered if you slow the servo if it makes it weaker ??

I am using older servos I have Futaba S-133. They are like the Hitec 65 size now a days.

They have 27.80 oz/in and I set my JR 9303 on airplane for 3.00 sec and 15 sec servo slow. NO PROB. They work great! I ordered the EMS goslow.

The Hitec 225 should work like a charm. Man they have 55 oz/in on 4.8V, gezz! I remember the day when Futaba S-148 was the norm and getting 42 oz/in sounded like a lot

taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

03-31-2008 Over year old.

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tauscnc
Veteran
Location: This topic...for now...

Here is what I got done tonight, I can't stay up untill 3:30 am like I did last night

Pic 1 and 2: Retracts with futaba S-133 servos. They are a bit smaller so I had to add some mounts. I just need to fuel proof the wood.

Pic 3: I found if I turned the swash upside down I could get it to stay better on the top. Here it is after the heli has been screwed in..looking good.

Pic 4 and 5: I found it difficult to figure out the hole pattern and came up with a simple jig. I just taped the wood in. The heli will use the larger of the two mouting rails that came with the fuse...actually I will remake them since the 600N has a longer frame stance anyway.

As you can see the back of the plate is right at the ridge in the body.

Heli is now mounted in from the bottom. I noted to get + pitch the swash has to move up. I am going to flip the grips around, etc so the swash has to move down to get positive. Also this will mean I may not have to cut a slot for the anti-rotation guide since the top half really will never be used. I will have to see??? I am also going to see if I can make it so I can get +12 with about -4 at the bottom with the swash going the oppisite way..ummmmmmmmmmmm

taus
www.cuttingedgecnc.com

03-31-2008 Over year old.

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