oldfart Elite Veteran Location: Vancouver, Canada
| The only time I had trouble with a Century ESC (and I must admit with two other brands also), was when I first got into large electric helis and would mistakenly set them up with improper throttle curves (mistakenly using my knowledge base gleaned from glow engine powered helis.)
An electric motor is relatively self governing compared to a nitro burner. It will only try to take from the battery pack, the wattage that is required to turn at its' most efficient rpm (which is directly related to its' KV rating). That is why, it is critical to select the proper pinion gear. One that will result in the gear ratio that will give you the head speed you want to fly at, while your motor will be turning at its most efficient rpm. That will be the motor rpm calculated by multiplying the Volts of your battery pack under load times the KV rating of the motor. At a 100% ESC setting, this is what will result.
Then you can have a throttle curve that is 100% across the top (the setting where the ESC works most efficiently) and your heli will maintain the same rotor speed no matter what load you set with collective and cyclic inputs. All that will happen is the motor will draw from the battery, the wattage it would need to maintain that motor speed.
The only time the rotor speed will change is when the load gets greater then what the motor is designed for - then your rotor speed will bog and your motor, ESC and battery will run hot.
That is why it is not recommended to have a throttle/ESC setting less then 70%. The 30% that is not used will be changed into heat within the ESC - heat is the killer of any electronic circuit. Personally, I never set any ESC for less then 80% anymore.
Another thing that can blow them, is if one uses the BEC circuit that are built into some, to step down too much voltage (e.g. from 22.2V to 4.8V). If the BEC circuit is not designed to do such a large step-down...remember the difference has to be dissipated in heat...good-bye ESC. This is why some ESC's will instruct you not to use their internal BEC when using more then 4 cells (as in some of the early Century ESC's). I blew one such 55A ESC from being a typical male and not completely reading the instructions.
I have also burned motors in the past, by not over loading them relative to their design specs, by using to big a rotor blade and/or too much pitch and /or the wrong pinion that ried to drive the rotor at too high a rotor speed.
Since learning these expensive lessons a number of years ago, I now read all the specs and instructions completely to insure I am buying batteries, motors and ESC's that are rated to put out the power (wattage) that would be required to do what I want done.
Also, now all my big electrics are set for a slow ramp up and a normal throttle curve of 0/80/90/100/100, so that on initial start up, I do not strip the maingears. And then I simply flip into idle up at 100 across the top for flight - regardless of the collective pitch curve or cyclic pitch settings that I have for that mode. Of course I set these so that they do not cause the motor to bog excessively. |