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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Anyone Using TRex Tail Rotor Components?
 
 
LJS
Veteran
Location: Minnesota, USA

Hi All,

I keep buying new Century Swift tail rotor components for my Swift, but they don't work. The problem that I'm having is that I'm putting in new tail rotor grips, but when I tighten the screws, one of the grips binds. My old ones worked, but they're sloppy. I've bought two new sets of grips now, and they both bind.

I'm looking at putting TRex 600 tail rotor components on the Swift. The only difference is a slight offset in the tail rotor slider. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this?

Thanks,
LJS

600E, 1910 1Y, 8S FP4270, GY611
600N, OS50 Hyper, GY611
Logo 5003D, 600+, 6S TP 5000, DS760
03-04-2008 12:38 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

i am using trex 600 parts.

only things original/swift on my tail are:
1. tail case
2. tail shaft/plastic gear

everything else is trex part.

khan
03-07-2008 05:22 PM
 
 
tim tompkins
Veteran
Location: Boston, Georgia sw Ga. Thomas County

I switched to the trex stuff, and I'm using the trex paddles on the flybar too. The tail parts are very positve. The brgs. in the swift tail didn't last too long. TimT
03-07-2008 09:16 PM
 
 
aerton
Veteran
Location: Longueuil, QC, Canada

I use Quick UK Raptor's metal tail grips, and raptor's metal pitch slider, Century's metal hub. Ever since I converted to this cfg, I never needed any adjustment to the tail. Even though the tail pitch slider gives a bit too much pitch to 1 side and a bit too little to the other it can be shaved further down and it's not noticeable in flight at all, but just the fact that I no longer worry that flimsy tail pitch slider of swift will break on me is priceless.

That was before Century released their own metal grips.
03-08-2008 12:15 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
LJS
Veteran
Location: Minnesota, USA

Hi Guys,

Well, I think I'm going to have to go with the TRex parts also. I've bought 2 sets of tail parts from Century, and I can't get them to go together without binding. Maybe it's the spacers that go between the bearings that are the problem. Doesn't matter, because Century doesn't sell those (even though the instructions show them included with the tail rotor grips).

The problem I see with the TRex parts is that, like Aerton said, there will be too much travel one way and not enough the other. Maybe I should shave down the slider a bit.

But I have the parts needed. My 600E came with the non-thrusted tail and I replaced it with the new thrusted version. So I still have the non-thrusted version to use in my Swift. The nice thing about it is that it doesn't increase the tail rotor diameter.

Kahn, please let me know what you did to correct the travel issue.

Thanks,
LJS

600E, 1910 1Y, 8S FP4270, GY611
600N, OS50 Hyper, GY611
Logo 5003D, 600+, 6S TP 5000, DS760
03-08-2008 08:34 PM
 
 
Ben-T-Spindle
Elite Veteran
Location: Central Illinois

It seams really strange to me that you would go with Trex parts. After flying Raptors for years I found that my Trex 600 tail rotor parts were much lower quality. I disliked them so much that I upgraded to a Kasama tail rotor.

If you are going to upgrade go with some quality parts: Raptor, QUK, or Kasama.




... BTS
03-08-2008 10:15 PM
 
 
LJS
Veteran
Location: Minnesota, USA

Hi BTS,

The TRex parts that I have are all silky smooth -- much different than my Swift parts. It's just a 30 size electric. Even the TRex stuff is over-kill. It's much larger than stock.

Keep 'em flying.
LJS

600E, 1910 1Y, 8S FP4270, GY611
600N, OS50 Hyper, GY611
Logo 5003D, 600+, 6S TP 5000, DS760
03-08-2008 11:32 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

It is true that the slider travels more in one direction, because of the geometrics. When checked the blade angle, I felt that the blade pitch is sufficient in either direction (even the side, where the slider doesn’t move as much). It felt fine when I flew it.

In flight, I felt no difference between the stock swift tail and the trex … only reason I changed over is because of concerns with certain components of the stock swift tail.

Edit: Not sure if everyone does this, but the way I setup my 401 gyro is: have equal throw in both directions on rate mode (servo arm perpendicular when rudder is centered). So, even if you have more travel available on one side, it only goes up to the maximum allowed on the shorter side. so, it really doesn't matter if i have unequal travel
03-10-2008 06:06 PM
 
 
oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Due to the torque from a counter rotating main rotor, any tail will geometrically always need more mechanical right throw then left throw for the same pirouette rates.

So, if you set for the same throw from a zero pitch tail rotor setting, you will have more power to the left then to the right with no automatic torque compensation built into the set-up.

Consequently, I set up my helis, such that the tail pitch is set for the correct amount to counter torque in the hover when my servo arm is straight up and down.

The best way to insure this type of tail set-up, is to first trim your control rod MECHANICALLY in the YAW RATE mode, with the tail servo set perpendicular, when in the middle of its total throw. Then you will find that the tail will always give the correct amount of right tail rotor pitch to counter the torque at all settings...and the servo will still have the same amount of throw left as right...but the tail rotor will have more right then left pitch to always compensate for the torque.

The only time this works against you, is when you are in an auto-rotation, as here, you have no torque to compensate for. Consequently, if you have an auto system that drives the tail during the auto, you will have a faster piro rate to the right then to the left, when doing a pirouette during an auto.
03-10-2008 10:19 PM
 
 
tim tompkins
Veteran
Location: Boston, Georgia sw Ga. Thomas County

You need equal travel when you are doing hard piro stuff inverted. I set mine up with equal travel left or right with the arm at 90 degrees when it centers itself at start up. I never use non hh when under power and when I hit the hold for an auto it goes to non hh mode. I did that so the servo doesn't go to extreme when I auto with no tail drive. I was afraid the stock links were going to pop off the funny angled pitch links at the blade holders. The align parts are much more positive and very good price. I did mine last summer and have been very happy. TimT
03-11-2008 03:00 AM
 
 
LJS
Veteran
Location: Minnesota, USA

Hi Guys,

Hey, what about the bellcrank? Did you use the Swift one, or the TRex part? I haven’t been able to tell if the TRex bellcrank will fit by looking at it.

Thanks,
LJS

600E, 1910 1Y, 8S FP4270, GY611
600N, OS50 Hyper, GY611
Logo 5003D, 600+, 6S TP 5000, DS760
03-11-2008 02:16 PM
 
 
tim tompkins
Veteran
Location: Boston, Georgia sw Ga. Thomas County

You keep the swift part but I had to put a couple of thin washers between the bellcrank and the housing. This dropped the b/c a smidge so it lined up with the slider. I found it would bind if I didn't shim it. I had to look and remind myself. It has been a while. TimT
03-11-2008 09:19 PM
 
 
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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Anyone Using TRex Tail Rotor Components?
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