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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP++ Metal Head + Plastic Blades = Erratic Flight
 
 
TwistedrotoR12
Senior Heliman
Location: Wichita ks

wow , that is a really good idea!! if i ever get a bcp again i will use it !! , Thanks for the help !

<Clearviewfield.com>
04-25-2008 02:05 PM
 
 
vidmarv
Senior Heliman
Location: ft walton beach, FL

Hey Bob,

Thanks for the tip on the fuel hose, I'll be giving that a try next time I need shims. In a way, I'm glad to hear about "going sideways when heavy on the collective and cyclic". I've been able to to "carve some nice turns" as well, but have had the tail blow out a few times. At first, I thought it was just my novice flying skills, as it usually lead to disorientation and a crash. In the last dozen or so flights, I have begun to find where in the flight it begins to "slide" but always wondered if this was some kind of error in my set-up. If I know it's coming, I can recover. Knowing it's just a characteristic of the design, it will help to keep me from going crazy trying to "fix" something that is simply inherent in the model. Just curious, would you know if this anomaly is lessened by using a direct drive BL tail? As I mentioned earlier, I am using dual motors and have always wondered if a BL tail would help. I suppose I'll hold out until I burn up the old 3 in 1.

AFter re-reading this thread again, I realize that futuramille suggest a 9t pinion with the BL main. I am here to tell you that the 10t did NOT work for me. I have a 9t on order and will give that a shot as well. One thing I did notice using the 10t is that the grub screws on the head "let loose". Anyone take them out and use a shear pin (paper clip? or brass pin?). Just curious.

Still not giving up. It flies great now, so I'm not going to mess with it. Next time I plow it in (and I will!) I'll try any suggestions offered.

Hopefully, the info in this thread will help someone else. Wish I had all this input when I started down this road a few months back. I am pretty sure it is all on the forum, just scattered across many threads. This one is a bit long, but there is a lot of great info here. Thanks to everyone who added to it!

VM

VM

Perfectly sliced air every time!
04-25-2008 02:31 PM
 
 
BOB WHO?
Senior Heliman
Location: downey, ca., usa

OK Vid here is some important info that I slowly absorbed on this site last year. It is primarily from two guys: tutelar and micro manaic. You can search for specific info if you like. First of all I recommend separate escs as the 3in1 doesn't allow the HH gyro to work at it's best. A BL Thunderbird 9 or 18 for the main and any 6 to 9 amp for the tail( I like the TB 9- recommended by tutelar). Any BL main motor the correct size will work, look into tutelar's post recommending the Feigao(spelling?) Next I use a gws DD brushed tail motor (edp-50xc w/heat sink) and a ep-0320 prop. Use a gws tail fin that holds the motor the correct way, by this I mean that the air blown from the prop cools the motor. It is fragile but is the best one I think. You will probably need to change the polarity of the tail motor wires to get the motor turning the right way. I cut my tail boom down to 10.5" for good balance. There is no significant difference between a brushed and brushless tail motor in terms of performance, only in the longevity of the motor. I use a 10T pinion with carbon fiber blades (helidirect about $22). I don't like the stock blades but they probably flip and roll well, they're just too light and buoyant for me. I like the carbon fiber on this heli but like stock balsa w/plastic blades on the HBK2 and Belt CP. If grub screws get loose anywhere, use loctite. Use a paper clip instead if the pin that holds the head to the shaft. I bend one end over to a 90 degree corner about 1/8" then insert the clip thru the head and shaft. Cut it so that about 1/4" or less remains then bend it over to match the other side. If (I mean when) you crash this pin breaks easily and less damgage occurs. I got all this info from generous guys like the ones mentioned, but everything I am recommeding to you I have tried and use myself with success.

Bob
04-25-2008 06:15 PM
 
 
vidmarv
Senior Heliman
Location: ft walton beach, FL

Eureka!!!!! Success!!

OK, after a couple of months of working with the metal head I FINALLY figured out what the issue was. The ball links were TOO TIGHT! I've been looking around for a micro ball link reamer, without success, and came across a bead reamer at the local craft store. After slowly opening up the plastic linkage just a bit the head finally flies wonderfully.

After thinking about this I realize that I have learned a couple of things from the experience. First, and most important....

NEVER GIVE UP!

Many times I thought about selling this piece of bling only to realize this would only be admitting defeat. Something I think any heli pilot worth their salt would never do.

Second, if you can find some one to help, do it! Unfortunately, I don't have much of an opportunity to do that. If I had, anyone with experience would have figured that out pretty damn quick. As it is, I have a much better understanding of the difference between too tight and too loose. I might add that it's a VERY subtle difference. I came to the realization that the folks at the LHS might only have very limited experience with such things, especially blingy non-essential parts like these. The folks at my LHS are as helpful as they can be, but, frankly most people are buying RC car parts. Heli's are the minority.

The third thing this experience has taught me is how valuable it is to return to these threads with updates on progress. Had someone else posted their experience with this part, I would have tried this much sooner. Through the course of this thread there have been some very excellent suggestions by some very experienced pilots, but I didn't pick up on the ball link adjustment in any of it.

As such, here is the "solution" to the problem I was having. I hope it is useful to the next one having the same problem.

VM

Perfectly sliced air every time!
06-09-2008 04:00 PM
 
 
Kdog35
Senior Heliman
Location: Lancaster, CA

I found this thread very helpful. I am a BCP owner (my first heli) and have flown for about a year and a half and have always fought with this thing. I completly understand the set-up porcedures, but the heli is not constistant and will fly good and bad when it wants. My latest problem is when I replaced the main and tail motors. I first replaced with a 8T motor and that through everything off; couldn't get it set-up for nothing. Then I bought a new 9T motor (what I had before) it still could not get it flying right. When I add throttle, the nose shoots to the left, so I brought down the pitch, that didn't seem to help; I"m at 75% throttle during a hovor.

One thing I never paid attention to is the ball links...? In my mind, what's the big deal? you snap them on and that's it. After reading, I checked mine and they are tight. They have always been tight, it came that way out of the box. And, I will buy some shims, 6 for each side and see what happens.

thanks for posting this info.
06-09-2008 05:18 PM
 
 
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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP++ Metal Head + Plastic Blades = Erratic Flight
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