RunRyder - TrexTuning flybarless conversion

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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > TrexTuning flybarless conversion

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

Hi, just wonderd if anyone else has followed the instructions on the trextuning website for the flybarless conversion ?
it says to make a secound hole in the mixing arm 24mm from the other hole centre, well i marked it and then looked at the picture on my screen and it looks a mile out ! . i then held my mixing arm up to my screen and moved back until it was the same size as the one in the picture,i make the distance 14mm not 24mm as stated.
im not sure if they are ussing a picture from an earlyer failled atempt or weather they just gave the wrong measurements by mistake.
any help or advise here welcome.

Nick.

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01-26-2008 05:35 PM

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gian
Veteran
Location: AZ

Hmmm... Is it 24mm from the pivot (the bearing)?

EDIT: They actually DO say from the other ball... Not sure what's going on here.

01-26-2008 05:40 PM

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

No , it's 24mm/14mm from the outer ball centre.
what they say "
CSM Flybarless T-Rex 600

Model Flybarless system based on Cyclock and CSM 720 gyros

The following is not a review but more of a technical overview detailing how to turn an ordinary T-Rex 600 into a flybarless T-Rex 600. The process involves the installation of several pieces of electrical equipment as well as mechanical modification of the rotor head to support flybarless operation.

First lets deal with the mechanical changes to support flybarless operation. In order to do this modification I will use all parts that come in the T-Rex 600 kit. We won't need to manufacture any parts just modify existing.

First job is to remove the flybar cage, flybar seesaw and the flybar paddles themselves. These can be stored in your spares box if you decide later to convert back again. Flybarless does fly a bit differently and it may not be to everyone's taste. The areas that I find most in need of further development being retreating blade stall and phasing changes at low headspeeds (usually at the end of an autorotation).

First we will modify the upper mixer arms which will need to be uninstalled from the flybar seesaw you just removed.

Essentialy what we have done is drilled a hole 24mm from the outer ball hole and installed an extra ball. So it should be 24mm from hole center to hole center as shown in the diagram. This allows us to add a little mixing into our blade grips so that the cyclic and collective are not over sensitive"
Nick.

THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE FREE !

01-26-2008 06:06 PM

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3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

here is the picture :-

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01-26-2008 06:10 PM

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gian
Veteran
Location: AZ

Quote
Essentialy what we have done is drilled a hole 24mm from the outer ball hole and installed an extra ball. So it should be 24mm from hole center to hole center as shown in the diagram.

01-26-2008 06:11 PM

gian
Veteran
Location: AZ

You're absolutely right- the length between the balls depicted doesn't look like 24mm.

01-26-2008 06:12 PM

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

This is my point ! if you hold a mixing arm up to the picture and then move back until its the same size,you should make it 14mm "i did lol", But i dont know if this is right ?

Thanks for taking the time to check this Gian !

Nick.

THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE FREE !

01-26-2008 06:23 PM

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gian
Veteran
Location: AZ

I agree! Something is awry.

And, it definitely would make sense that the distance is 24 mm from the center of the bearing...

01-27-2008 01:00 AM

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

I personally am convinced , that it should be 14mm from the outer hole centre , to where you make the secound hole for the new ball.
if the picture shown is correct and not a picture from an earlyer failled atempt.

Nick.

THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE FREE !

01-27-2008 02:15 AM

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PTCA
Heliman
Location: Chico, CA

The Trextuning conversion is wrong on that point. It should be measured from the center hole. I put mine 22 mm from the center/pivot screw. That keeps the angles of the pushrod and the grip reasonable. The grip ball on a Trex600 is 25 mm from the center of the shaft. You want it close to that depending on the ratio you want. The whole arm is only 36 mm from the center to the outer ball. It would be too close to the shaft the way they have it.

01-27-2008 06:05 PM

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

ah ok i just looked at 22mm from the pivot point and that is near as dam it 14mm from the outer ball centre so looks like i my have been right and that it is 14mm from the outer ball.or 22mm from the pivot !

thanks ptca.

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01-27-2008 07:15 PM

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Clearance
Veteran
Location: Left Coast Canada

3DMP.UK

I am VERY glad you pointed out this discrepancy as I am right now in the process of converting my 600N to flybarless. BUT there must be an optimum ratio we're looking for here, considering we are all using the same components.

Ken

01-30-2008 03:23 AM

3DMP.UK.
Heliman
Location: isla de margarita venezuela

well if the picture they show is correct it is 14mm from the outer ball or 22mm from the centre of the bearing,and if ptca says he has done his to that and flown ? with sucsess then i would go with that im still waiting on gyro's and cylock to complete. but will post my results and thoughts

Nick

THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE FREE !

01-30-2008 05:16 AM

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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > TrexTuning flybarless conversion

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