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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Thinking of switching over to a123 - need advice
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

hello

i am thinking of switching over to dewalt cells, if you could share your experience with the battery on a swift, i will really appreciate it

i searched, there is tons of info ... but not necessarily for the stock swift setup. i am contemplating between 8 or 10s setup

thanks ... khan


not sure if it is important, but here goes my current setup:

stock swift
515mm blades (i do have some 550s)
jazz 80-6-18 (i realize i need to go to the jazz 55 or cc 45hv)
cnc head (everything else plastic)
1907/1.5y (i guess i will need to go to 1910/1y
5475s cyclic
401/9254
11-24-2007 08:22 PM
 
 
laughingstill
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, Fl, USA

Go 10s, the extra weight will be diminished by the extra power...Ron

3DMP-E, Logo 6003D, Logo103D Carbon and Trex 450se Flyin Firefighter
11-24-2007 08:39 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

anyone else' comments/experience/gripe besides Ron's
11-26-2007 05:50 AM
 
 
LJS
Veteran
Location: Minnesota, USA

Hi Kahn,

I have a 1910/1Y w fan with eight flights (no 3D) on it that I'd let go for $120. I've heard they're hard to get. Should be really powerful for your Swift. I think you'd have to go 10s, though. I think your headspeed would be too slow with 8s.

Good luck on your project and keep 'em flying.
LJS

600E, 1910 1Y, 8S FP4270, GY611
600N, OS50 Hyper, GY611
Swift 16, 600+, 6S TP 5000, JR 7703D
11-26-2007 02:24 PM
 
 
miragewsu
Senior Heliman
Location: Washington

Unfortunately a 1910/1y is not in the kv range needed with a HV setup. wrathofkhan, I think a 10s setup with a jazz 55 would be the way to go. My 1910/1.5y provided good power. You need a motor around 680 kV. There are possibly other motors that would work but I have no experience with them. Also, go up to some bigger blades around 550. A 10s A123 setup will provide plenty of raw power. The only drawback is the heavier weight. I "think" I can notice it, but I haven't run my setup with a lipo so I can't be sure. For me the trade-off is worth it for durable packs at a third of the cost.

BTW, my swift has been gutted to equip a logo 500 3d. That's a nice machine! One of these days I will get the swift flying again as a beater machine with low cost lipos and a z-power or century motor.
11-26-2007 11:07 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

good catch miragewsu, i actually meant the 1910/1.5y.

1. but are there other motors which would work fine on 10s (a bit cheaper maybe)?

2. is it true the 123s don't require balancing (i came across conflicting report)?

3. how much does the voltage drop on the 123s? for calculation purposes on regular lipos, most use 3.7v ... what is the appropriate voltage to use for 123s? if someone could share an eagle tree graph, that will be excellent !!!

4. i am getting about 8 minutes on my 5s 3700 FPs, what kind of time would i get with the 10s setup? i am still at the flipping/rolling stage - no hardcore 3d. my current HS is around 1900 with a 515mm blade

5. i know the 123s can handle 3c, but can the car battery handle that kind of charge rate at the field? or will i need to carry around multiple car batteries

6. will the batteries fit under the undercarriage of the swift ... or will i need to break them apart for placement?

these are some of the questions i have. sorry, no one at my club/field flys swift ... and same applies for the a123s

cheers, khan
11-28-2007 04:41 AM
 
 
laughingstill
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, Fl, USA

Hi Wrath!

1. Yes there are cheaper motors. I used a Z-Power Z-30A 800KV motor in my Swift 550 Carbon. I know they are extremely hard to find right now but they are only $99 and have PLENTY of power. Mikado has their own line of motors which are copies of the Z-Powers so you might want to take a look.

2. Some have had success not balancing the cells and I am one of those guys. I was intentionally not balancing the cells to see how long they would work and they were always be in balance and worked well

3. Lipos hang around 3.7 volts when under a load and A123 cells are around 3 volts once it levels off. They start high and level but you want to aim for the leveled voltage for setups.

4. I got any where between 6-9 minutes with my 10s A123 setups in both my Swift and Logo. I am at the same level you are so I would expect the same for yours. Justplanechris said he got a flight of 9 minutes and 23 seconds before the battery would not keep the heli in the sky.

5. My Astro 109 worked fine at 6 amps on the car battery but I started the car and ran it for a little while while I was charging (Astro and battery on a table next to the car to avoid heat from engine bay)

6. If you arrange the batteries in a shotgun format (cells end to end) and in two rows (six on the bottom and four on the top) they fit fine. Justplanechris just took his out of the Dewalt pack and soldered ends to them and left them as they came and he is using it that was with success (brick style). He also says that you need the tall Swift LG or some of comparable height to clear the ground.

I hope this helps.......Ron

3DMP-E, Logo 6003D, Logo103D Carbon and Trex 450se Flyin Firefighter
11-28-2007 11:46 AM
 
 
Wheelhaus
Veteran
Location: Denver

Thanks for the tip Wrath, here's my input on A123's...

1: I agree with Ron, the Z30A-800/clones would also work great, but they aren't quite as efficient as the Neus. They will however, run cooler in hot weather.

2: I haven't balanced my 10s packs in over a year and they're still cranking after 250+ cycles (estimated). I will occasionally check the individual cell voltages with a multimeter (by making a tiny hole in the heat shrink with a 1.5mm hand drill). My packs are a 5x2 brick so this is easy to do.

3: I think 3v average is still quite a bit high. I'd expect 2.8v average. They are 3.15v nominal, but will sag to 2.5v under load.

4: I average 6 minutes with a flybarless setup using 550mm blades, so with a flybar I'd be getting closer to 5 minutes. A 5s 3700mah lipo (at 3.7v average using 80% capacity) has 54.76 watts/hour. A 10s 2300mah A123 (at 2.8v average using 90% capacity) has 57.96 watts/hour. Your flights may be shorter of you decide to use longer blades, it will take more watts tp swing longer sticks and the added weight will ahve an effect. Your flights may be shorter by .5-1 min I'd guess... Its hard to say.

5: I charge mine at 3-3.5 amps (1.3-1.5C). They can handle higher C charge rates, but it shortens cell life. From the car battery, I'm a little paranoid about getting stranded so I let it idle while I charge. Keep in mind that the car battery will put out ~12v. If the A123 pack is at 36v, that's a multiplier of 3x. YOU may be charging a 36v battery at 3c (7 amps) but its pulling 3x that much from the car battery. 36v x 7a = 252 watts (most chargers can't even handle that)... 252w / 12v = 21 amps from the car battery. That's quite a load! The newer Astro Li-Ion charger works great for A123 batteries (not so much for lipos anymore since its a CC/Pulse charger). If it has different software than the 109, it should charge 10s just fine (mine has some issues with low voltage detection choosing a too-low cell count and "finishing" early, very annoying). Recently I have only been using my TME Xtrema because its such a damn good charger.

6: The 5x2 brick will fit the swift just fine thanks to its large undercarriage. I'm using a 5x2 brick and though its not the best for CG, it does work fine. Its a heavy pack so you'll need a couple heavy duty velcro straps to keep it secure. If you want to reconfigure the pack, you'll need a few special supplies to resolder or build tubes, etc. The cells are aluminum and aren't very tolerant of heat so they need to be soldered very quickly and carefully with aluminum flux. If you're using the stock 5x2 config, the tabs are not aluminum and you can solder on your own plug leads using standard soldering equipment. I get my heatshrink from www.batteryspace.com and use the 5" wide (measured flat) shiny PVC stuff.

Other observations:
After a couple hundred cycles its hard to tell, but sometimes I wonder if the cells are getting a little tired. I'm getting about 20-30 seconds less flight time and the power seems a little faded. Any battery would have a noticable performance difference after a year and several hundred cycles so this doesn't durprise me.

..........
Dave
TT e620 SE and Mini Titan
11-28-2007 04:16 PM
 
 
oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

I agree with Wheelhaus re: the Voltage under load.

My EagleTree graphs show an average in flight volt/cell is 3.7 Volts on good brand LiPos. The readings using a friends A123 set up, showed the inflight volt per cell to be only 2.7 (a 1 volt per cell difference). NOTE: Both geared for a 1900 rotor speed - more duration can be had for gearing for lower head speeds.

So when selecting a pinion/gear ratio etc, take this lower voltage into consideration. (e.g. the 10 cell A123 under load would deliver about 27 or 28 volts, while a good quality 6 cell lipo would deliver 22.2V.
11-28-2007 05:25 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

excellent info !!!

dave or oldfart, do you have any eagle tree graphs you could share with us?

will really appreciate it

khan
11-29-2007 02:13 AM
 
 
JustPlaneChris
Heliman
Location: Austin,TX - USA

khan,

I am flying my Swift on 10S A123 with a Neu 1910/1.5Y. Right now I'm using a 9T pinion and stock woodies, at about 1900rpm. I set my timer for 7 minutes, but as noted earlier if I fly "to the dump" I get just over 9 minutes. You can see some pictures of my battery mounting here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...4&postcount=341

My AUW is 2839g, or 6 lb 4.2 oz. and it flies really well (to me, anyway!) and suits my flying style perfectly. I like fast smooth flight, with the occasional loop, roll or flip.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6WUoQ8y4-4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqtBBKWgZRM

-Chris

11-29-2007 03:55 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Wheelhaus
Veteran
Location: Denver

Nice flights, mr shaky hands!

Though smooth it doesn't really show off the power the A123's can dish out. The stock 520mm woodies aren't very safe past 1900rpm, so higher headspeed (10 or 11t pinion) and 550mm carbons would really wake that bird up. the 520mm blades will also have a higher disc loading because of the smaller surface area compared to 550's. If you're using 550mm blades and an 11t pinion, you'll need a pretty robust ESC like an 85HV, since the amps will be higher than your current setup.

..........
Dave
TT e620 SE and Mini Titan
11-29-2007 04:09 PM
 
 
JustPlaneChris
Heliman
Location: Austin,TX - USA

Thanks, Dave! I readily admit my current setup is "mild", but that's OK for now. My current skill level doesn't really need a lot more power, and my CC 45HV probably wouldn't be happy with anything beyond a 10T and maybe some 550's?

-Chris
11-29-2007 04:27 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Wheelhaus
Veteran
Location: Denver

Well, closer to sea level your blades get more bite than mine do up here at 5500ft in Denver. Your setup should be fine with 550's if you keep the 9t, but use a datalogger to see what its doing. Upping the HS with a 10t will definitely up the amps a bit, but you'll get a lot more responsiveness and authority.

It may be too much "traction" at sea level for a 550mm/2100HS/10-11t setup on the 45HV, but its worth testing. Right now I'm using a 85HV and its cold after every flight. Its not even being taxed, I think it's asleep from boredom the whole flight, hehe..

..........
Dave
TT e620 SE and Mini Titan
11-29-2007 04:37 PM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

from what i am gathering from everyone's feedback (thank you by the way), i was thinking of changing/upgrading the following:

550 carbon blades
9 or 10t
use my current 1907/1.5y
10s 123s
jazz 55-10-32

this should do the trick, right?

i realize the 1910/1.5y will give me more power, but i am sure the 1907/1.5y should do ok ... for now.

khan

ps for calculation purposes, are you guys using 2.8 or 3 volts/cell? if i use 9s setup, i could get away with my current jazz 80-6-18, or will it push it too far, and fry it?
11-30-2007 03:58 AM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

i will be getting my a123 cells tomorrow.

i know this has been answered couple of times, but on RCG they were a bit adament about balancing.

i really don't want to balance if i don't have to (and save time on soldering on all those little wires for the tap).

my final question before i take the plunge ... do i need to balance charge the packs first few times, or not at all ... just solder on the male/female and fly it?
12-08-2007 06:21 AM
 
 
Wheelhaus
Veteran
Location: Denver

I have not balanced mine at all, not statically or while charging. The cells all seem to rest within .05v, what they do under load is anyone's guess but they've been pretty consistent so far.

..........
Dave
TT e620 SE and Mini Titan
12-08-2007 06:24 AM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

well, i finally got to fly the a123 earlier today. i was a bit intimidated with all the added weight and took it easy. i didn't push it much since i didn't know when the battery might go out, so it was rolls and flips at relatively low altitude (so then i can hear the motor)

i am using the following:

a123 - 10s
cc 85hv
1910/1.5y - 10t
5975 cyclic, 401/54 on tail
spektrumized 9303
MS 550 carbon

i didn't tach the machine, but i am guessing the HS was less than 2000. didn't bog much at all, but then again i didn't try hard punchouts. i am not sure about the pitch even, just tamed it down a bit from my previous 5s setup.

i guess i will need to buy a 12volt battery now, any advice?

here goes the data i had captured on one of my flights ... towards the end, it came close to falling out of the sky ...

12-21-2007 08:53 AM
 
 
laughingstill
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, Fl, USA

Why do you need the 12 volt battery?

3DMP-E, Logo 6003D, Logo103D Carbon and Trex 450se Flyin Firefighter
12-21-2007 11:36 AM
 
 
wrathofkhan
Veteran
Location: LA, CA - US

to charge at the field. at my flying field, it is a bit difficult to use the car's charger. how did you charge yours at the field?
12-21-2007 03:55 PM
 
 
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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Thinking of switching over to a123 - need advice
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