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Tools and Field Equipment > Dreamheli / Dynatron battery holder

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

The studs in the Dynatron dont seem to be long enough to hold the Dream heli CNC Aluminium battery holder.

When you place the Aluminium end plate over the studs at the wand end, there's no thread left to take the domed nut.

Anybody else have this problem?

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-16-2007 09:44 AM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

Come on guys, someone must have a dreamheli battery holder!!

Ordered headbutton from Dreamheli, arrived today - it ROCKS!!!
Fantastic design and quality!

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-19-2007 07:26 PM

JuanRodriguez
Elite Veteran
Location: Rochester, New York

Have you tried giving getting a hold of them regarding the problem ??

11-19-2007 07:31 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

I have tried, said he had never seen the problem before.
I PM'd another member who I found through a search on dreamheli and dynatron and he said he had the same problem as me and had to shave off some of the plastic.
Not a very elegant solution.
Apparently there are 2 types of studs, according to another Dynatron thread, so I hoped to find a better solution.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-19-2007 07:36 PM

rtrickyjr
Veteran
Location: Drumore, PA (SW of Quarryville)

I have Dreamheli's battery holder on a dynatron, and my conversion went perfect, plenty of thread for the nuts. Also put one on their standard black and yellow starter, and had plenty of threads on it, too. Maybe they're using a different bolt assy. now, my starters are older ones.

-Rick-

11-19-2007 07:59 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

Mine is newish.
Some studs have fixed nuts at the back end, under the back plastic cover. Others seem to have nuts you can remove.
This at least according to the website selling Makita battery conversio kits.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-19-2007 08:39 PM

rtrickyjr
Veteran
Location: Drumore, PA (SW of Quarryville)

May-be you could get some allthread and use that in place of the standard long bolts?

-Rick-

11-19-2007 08:48 PM

JuanRodriguez
Elite Veteran
Location: Rochester, New York

Quote
May-be you could get some allthread and use that in place of the standard long bolts?

Good idea.....

OR,

You could solder a washer on one end of the existing bolts...... that will allow the "extra" thread to protrude out the other end and you'll then have enough thread to assemble the system in place. You only need thread on one end to tighten down the whole thing...

11-19-2007 09:00 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

I agree there will be more than one way to solve the problem, however, having purchased a nice shiny aluminium, CNC, blah, blah, blah - do I really want to botch it.

It is quite difficult for me to buy imperial threaded rod, everything here is metric.
The last time I took a starter apart, the brushes jumped out and I spent 2 weeks trying to put it back together before throwing it out and buying the dynatron. How do I know this wont happen again?
Is the dynatron simple to dismantle and rebuild?

In the end, unless someone knows something I don't, its going to cost more than the cost of the battery holder to get it to work, unless I stick it together with metaphorical selotape and string.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-19-2007 09:32 PM

JuanRodriguez
Elite Veteran
Location: Rochester, New York

Quote
having purchased a nice shiny aluminium, CNC, blah, blah, blah - do I really want to botch it.

Can't blame you there !!! There won't be anything botched up with the latter method I suggested.......and you won't have to dismantle anything or buy anything extra.......

Just take out one rod one at a time.......all they do is keep the ends of the starter together so one at a time won't hurt anything......

Solder (or braze) a washer flat against the end of the rod (ie, 90 degrees to the rod). That will give you all of the thread you need on the other end to assemble your piece. After soldering or brazing the washer on, you can wire brush it to clean it up and use a little paint to make it purdy......

11-19-2007 09:46 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

I know this is a slight change in direction, but should it not work as bought?

I started this thread hoping there was something, somewhere, I was missing, and I have still only heard from 2 other dreamheli users.

There is a what I believe is a fixed nut at one end of the threaded rod, the wiring end, therefore it can only be unscrewed from that end, and it cant be screwed in any further either. This means the washer would have to be soldered/brazed after the aluminium plate was placed over the wand end, and whilst in contact with the aluminium plate - whats that going to do to my nice shiny CNC plate? It also assumes I have the equipment/skill to solder/braze on to a fairly large threaded rod. Can I be sure that nothing inside the starter will come loose/misalligned when withdrawing one of the studs?

Unless somebody comes up with something more simple I will make up 2 stepped, knurled, (round), nuts, incerase the diameter of the holes in the wand end, end plate to the smaller stepped end of the round nut, and tighten by hand. This of course involves the use of a lathe and a mill, and I'm dependant on a friend to do it for me.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-19-2007 10:09 PM

JuanRodriguez
Elite Veteran
Location: Rochester, New York

Quote
I know this is a slight change in direction, but should it not work as bought?

Absolutely......but in the "real world" of this and other hobbies, you have to be able to "adapt" (pun intended

) when things don't go exactly as planned...... There is no way that the manufacturer of your nice shiny CNC adaptor could anticipate that Dynatron would use different length rods on their starters.....

Quote
There is a what I believe is a fixed nut at one end of the threaded rod, the wiring end, therefore it can only be unscrewed from that end

What looks like a "fixed nut" on the unit is what's called an "acorn" nut..... it is threaded and you can remove it from the stud .....

Quote
This means the washer would have to be soldered/brazed after the aluminium plate was placed over the wand end, and whilst in contact with the aluminium plate - whats that going to do to my nice shiny CNC plate?

That is NOT correct.... all of the soldering (2 washers) would be done with the rods removed and would not harm your shiny aluminum plate once it's in place.....

Quote
It also assumes I have the equipment/skill to solder/braze on to a fairly large threaded rod. Can I be sure that nothing inside the starter will come loose/misalligned when withdrawing one of the studs?

Yes, that is an assumption but I would hardly call a 1/4 inch rod "fairly large" !!! If your buddy has a lathe and milling machine and knows how to use them, I'm sure that he would also have the skills to do the soldering/brazing job for you..... but if you're dead against the idea or don't have the skills necessary, then scrap the idea......trust me, I won't be offended in any way. It's just an idea and suggestion......

And no, nothing will come loose or misaligned in the starter when removing the stud...... As a double safety, you can tape the end caps to the starter body to assure nothing comes loose or becomes misaligned.....

Quote
Unless somebody comes up with something more simple I will make up 2 stepped, knurled, (round), nuts, incerase the diameter of the holes in the wand end, end plate to the smaller stepped end of the round nut, and tighten by hand. This of course involves the use of a lathe and a mill, and I'm dependant on a friend to do it for me.

Sounds a little more complicated than simply soldering or brazing a washer on the end of the existing rods but if you're friend is willing, I would prefer that method over my suggestion.....

Finally, here is one more suggestion...... return the CNC battery holder..... it does not work "as advertised" and surely , you're not happy with it.... You can do what I and others have done with our Dynatrons for a fraction of the cost, I'm sure..... (About $25 for the 18 V battery/charger combo)... I had the scrap aluminum laying around the shop.......

11-19-2007 11:19 PM

Ace Dude
Elite Veteran
Location: USA

I didn't have any problems with mine. Pics of mine are in my gallery, however, I have since sold it and am now using the Finer Edge/Makita setup.

11-20-2007 03:22 AM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

I know what an acorn nut is, we call them dome nuts, and I also know that it unscrews - give me some credit!
When you remove the "acorn" nut and take off the cover there is another nut holding on the backplate below the wiring - this nut appears to be part of the threaded rod and does not rotate without turning the rod.
You therefore can only withdraw the rod from one end, and would have to solder/braze right up against the Aluminium plate.
My friend has a mill and lathe, he shipped them over to Ireland from San Jose, but we haven't arranged for gas bottles yet.
I'll stick with the machined stepped nut, its far tidier.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-20-2007 01:39 PM

rtrickyjr
Veteran
Location: Drumore, PA (SW of Quarryville)

If you bought the starter used, could be someone else 'cut' off the rods. If you want to do it 'right', perhaps contacting Sullavan for new bolts is the way to go.

Perhaps talking to dream heli will give you a satisfactory 'fix'.

perhaps dropping the attitude would help others respond to your problem.

Juan has spent time trying to help you, perhaps you should give him some credit?

-Rick-

11-20-2007 02:01 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

Starter was bought new, got nowhere with dreamheli, (his head buttons are sweet though).
Not sure what you mean by attitude, I appreciate the replies, forgive me if I speak my mind, it was unforgiveable of me to suggest I knew what an acorn nut was, I apologise.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-20-2007 02:15 PM

Ace Dude
Elite Veteran
Location: USA

Another option you have is to simply order some threaded rods and cut them to length as necessary. I believe the thread is 10-24 and you might be able to find them at a local hardware or home improvement store or order on-line from an industrial supply house. Should only a few dollars.

11-20-2007 02:17 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

Its not easy for me to buy imperial threaded rod, and ordering from the US would probably cost too much in postage. I dont know if any of the internal parts the rod passes through are threaded or I'd buy the nearest equivalent metric rod.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-20-2007 02:21 PM

Peefor
Veteran
Location: St Albans UK

Pgrbff is quite correct with his interpretation of the problem. The studs are not reversable because the front plate is threaded and the rod body is fatter than the threads. The threads in the front-end of the starter could be drilled out, but that's not a good idea. (IMO)

I first came across this problem when designing a carbon frame for the dynatron. With a 2mm plate, there just about enough thread to fit the standard acorn nut. The neatest solution would be to get a couple of shouldered acorn nuts made up if using material thicker than 2mm.

The standard rods could be replaced with UNC studding if it can be located. With my latest setup I completely changed rods and nuts to all metric for the Finer Edge system, but would only suggest that if you are a real glutton for punishment.

Pete

11-20-2007 02:31 PM

pgrbff
Veteran
Location: Louth, Ireland

If you have a moment at some stage will you quickly explain how you went about swapping for metric? If its too complicated don't worry, I think I'm probably going to go with the stepped/shouldered nuts.

Proficient at turning cash and credit into noise!

11-20-2007 02:38 PM

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