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Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies

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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Brushless tail help???
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

Thanks. I'm gonna try hooking up the Gy401 this weekend. Maybe it will get rid of that slow left turn I seem to have going lately.

flying is simple, electronics is hard
10-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

irush: Any time I get a slow turn happening, I can correct it with a small rudder trim adjustment. I am using separates with a G90 gyro...

What are you using that you cannot correct a slow turn?
10-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

The GY401 is going to operate like a dream compared to the G90 - You're definitely going to be glad you upgraded

The only reason I own a G90 is because my GY401 wouldn't work with the
3-in-1 unit and I was uneducated and unconvinced at the time that going separates would be worth the hassle compared to just getting a G90 that's made to work with the 3-in-1 - Wisened from experience and spoiled by performance I now consider the G90 a complete waste of money
10-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

tutlar, I always seems to a sight left turn out of the heli, I add plenty of trim, but it always seems to come creeping back. More of a annoyance than a real problem. Micro, I agree. I do think that the G90 is great deal better than having nothing, and I am sure that it would work great with a stock CPP. However, I do believe that I wasted the money, because I got the GY401 for the same price off ebay that I did the G90. I thought the G90 would be cheaper at the time. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

flying is simple, electronics is hard
10-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

Especially on a stock BCP I think something of equal performance at half the price would be a smarter choice - I think in addition to the E-flite name it's the digital mode that makes it twice the price as similar gyros and the digital mode won't even work with a stock BCP 3-in-1 - But yeah - Live and learn
10-12-2007 Over year old.
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

I am having success with the G90 in the following configurations:
1. stock 3-in-1, stock main and tail motors
2. stock 3-in-1, stock tail and BL main motors
3. all separates, stock tail and BL main motors
4. all separates, BL main and tail motors

All with Lipo batteries, with stock or DX7 radios...

What combination are you using that is causing the left creep? (perhaps a tail motor starting to go bad?)
10-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

Hey guys, I havent posted on this issue in a while but Ive tried all the settings on the Dx7 that you have suggested both mixes and no mixes and I can still not get this motor to stop spinning without lots of left rudder. Is this possibly a good indication that my G90 is bad or having problems? It seems to work when I use my three in one with a brushed DD tail but according to some of your previous posts it seems like the G90 doesnt seem to make much difference anyway. I think I might just invest in another gyro. Is the 401 the best choice over the 240 or is it overkill for a little bird like this? Thanks for all the previous help.
10-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

My G90 drifted requiring trimming throughout every flight with all the configurations I've used it with from totally stock to brushless - Usually had to trim twice per flight - Once at the beginning and again half way through - By the time it needed trimmed a third time it was time to land anyways - The gyro works ok just not like I'm used to with GY401s - The constant drifting/trimming was quite annoying to me - I think comparing the G90 to the GY401 is kinda like comparing nervous 72mhz to locked-in 2.4ghz if you've spent time on 72mhz and made the switch to 2.4ghz to know what I mean - The feeling is kinda hard to explain

I know it seems like I'm on some anti-E-flite compaign lately - But I'm just stating the facts as I've experienced them - A statment I made elsewhere seems to be a constant in all stages flying and modifying this heli - The less E-flite there is on my heli the better it becomes

h8gravity
Look at you're channel display screen and watch what's happenning when you activate the mix - The rudder channel should go to 100% or more left at neutral stick depending on the mix - The full marks toward each end of the graph indicate 100% channel output and the areas beyond closer to the ends of the graph indicate excess of 100% channel output - If the cursor doesn't move to somewhere in that area when you activate the mix then there's something you're not doing right

The $120 GY240 is a good gyro but just like with the $85 G90 vs the $105 2100T for just $20 more or $15 less you can have better - The $140 GY401 has remote gain and digital servo mode and the 2100T also has these features and performs well too - I just prefer the feel of the GY401 myself
10-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

Micromaniac: Based on your enthusiasm, I may have to put my GY401 in to try it....
10-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

Fellas,
I have two 401s (one in my t-rex because I don't like tearing into helis every time I want to fly). I got mine new on e-bay for 98 bucks. It is an internet store and they throw one or two on there all the time. it works great by the way. Such a difference. I'll check my receipt and see what company it was.

flying is simple, electronics is hard
10-13-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

irush, Id really like to get the name of that internet store when you come across it. That price sounds pretty good to me.
10-14-2007 Over year old.
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

the company was InetSoho LLC. Basicaly I got on ebay and searched for GY401, and they popped up. It was a bidding thing, so, all the gyros started out at five bucks and went from there. I think they put two two up a week. I watched them for quite a while and would only put in a max bid of $100. I believe the shipping was 12.95 for me but I am accross the country in North Carolina. You might have to bid for a while on different ones for a few weeks, but you will get a good deal if you stick with it. I get a lot of stuff off of there, usually only new electronics, but some used stuff too. I go to http://www.eboyztoyz.net/ too, they have good prices for Blade stuff and trex stuff too.

flying is simple, electronics is hard
10-15-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

Hey everybody, Just wanted to thank all of you for all your imput. I finally got my bird flying today with full brushless seperates. I couldnt have done it without all of your great advice. I ended up running a GY240 on the rudder and it is absoulutely rock solid. I dont know if my G90 was bad or what, but she flys like a dream now. I still get a little tail motor after the tail esc initializes but not enough to cause any movement. It is a pain though because I have to hold left rudder while I unplug the battery. I still have a little programming to fugure out. I guess this is where the remote gain of the GY401 would come in handy because I could power down the tail with TH as well. But as far as flying goes its great. Ill still probably throw a GY401 on eventually. By the way thanks IRUSH for that site. Ill look into that. Happy flying everybody.
10-16-2007 Over year old.
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

The remote gain feature is not what will correct the problem. Just ensure you have the following programmed into your DX7 (from Micromaniac's post above...):
Code 

[INPUT SELECT]
->AUX2 GEAR
AUX2 GEAR


and:
Code 

[PROG.MIX2]
AUX2-> RUDD
RATE: +50%
0%
SW: HOLD
OFFSET:-100

This puts the rudder to 100% Left for arming/disabling in throttle hold.
10-16-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

With that mix the Aux 2 switch does need to be in the 0 position for the Throttle-Hold (Hold-/Rudder D/R) switch to kill the tail - If the Aux 2 switch is in the 1 position the tail will still operate normally whether the Throttle-Hold switch is active or not
10-16-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

Hey guys, I realized right after I posted that last entry I probalbly needed to do it with a mix and not gain. But why do I want to do it on the aux 2 switch instead of Rudder>Rudder? Also when you had mentioned these mixes before you said to set the rate to 100% and offset to -100%. Why does it now change to 50%? Please keep the great advice coming. Thanks
10-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

A RUDD->RUDD mix would be much simpler and you can use it if you prefer but hitting throttle-hold will always disable both the main and tail

The AUX2->RUDD mix provides the extra option to only disable the main and leave the tail enabled when you hit throttle-hold for the ability to perform auto-rotation landings or to disable both the main and tail for arming/crashing/etc

I think when I mentioned +100%rate/-100%offset that was in a RUDD->RUDD mix which should move the channel to 150%? left and not let it go to the right past 100% left - Not sure how arming at 150% left would effect the operating range of the ESC though as I haven't actually experimented with any of these

A mix that holds the rudder at 100% left and doesn't let it move from that position at all would probably be most ideal but I don't think I've acheived that yet and don't think it can be done - maybe at 150% left but as I said I don't know the effects of arming at 150% vs 100% - My BCP is shelved at the moment and I'm not really motivated to actually tinker with it right now
10-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

Micro-Maniac, I completely understand where youre coming from. And thank you for the mix lesson, that helps more than youll ever know.
10-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

I don't know about lesson - Thinking aloud perhaps - And it's tutelar-rc's fault by actually coming up with his own mix rather than just copying someone elses like the rest of us - I was fine with the odd simple mix I was using until I seen his and was curious how it worked and differed from the one I was using
I'm going to get a mH auto-gear and shoot mini auto landings for fun now
10-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
h8gravity
Heliman
Location: Florence, Arizona - United States

Where did you guys first learn about and how to use these mixes. I know the menues are right there on the tx but I wouldnt dare do anything with them until you guys helped me understand them a little bit.

Now I understand the purpose and for the most part function of them, but you guys lose me a little bit with the percentage ratios. I understand the offset part of it but not the rate. And how a given display actually represents a different amount. How can I understand this better?

Thats the thing I love about this hobby. Just when you think you really start to figure things out you realize youre newbie all over again.
10-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
4 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )     4     NEXT    >> ]2013 viewsPOST REPLY
Model Rectifier Corp . RCHover . RC-Direct

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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Brushless tail help???
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