RunRyder - Alignment of flybar paddles

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Gohbee Aviation Stinger 30-90 > Alignment of flybar paddles

tracvision
Senior Heliman
Location: Tampa, Florida

shake on spool up

Hey Cambo,

On the flybar,

make sure the metal flybar [without paddles] extrudes from the head exactly the same distance on each side. If it is within 1/2mm and you cant match it, shave some off one side with a dremel. Get it exact. Then weigh your paddles. scrape of some plastic from the heavy one and get them exact. Now install them on the flybar and measure from the head to the paddle. Get them as perfect as possible. This will most likely eliminate the shake on spool up.

09-26-2007 Over year old.

A. Gordon
Senior Heliman
Location: Farnham,Va.-USA

Shake on spool up

I agree,my friend had this very same problem with stock flybar paddles.He swapped them out with carbonfiber, and evenly spaced them out from the head. Problem solved. Forgot to mention stock paddles were also not equal weight.

11-03-2007 04:22 AM

Cambo
Senior Heliman
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Hi guys

I still haven't figured out this spool up vibe (and spool down BTW). I am swithcing over to a DX-7 so i am in the process of dissasembling, loctiting, and reasembling the heli. While dissasembling i found the the flybar was bent strangley. I ordered a couple new flybars. When i am rebiulding it i am confident that i will get everything measured out and aligned perfectley. The loctite is giving alot more confidence in this bird. I wish I had terred it down before.

I also ordered a few things for the tail. I grabbed one of those tail servo mounts and a carbon fiber pushrod. I am getting rid of the windy stock pushrod all the way into the radio compartment. I also order CF tail blades. I think the stiffer carbon pushrod along with the CF TR blades will give me much better authority. I am using some cheap century TR blades that flex like you wouldn't believe. The stock plastice worked great but i chipped them on the first flight. I have since switched to a longer (stiffer) tail fin should prevent the TR blades from striking the groundd.

12-15-2007 03:52 PM

Cambo
Senior Heliman
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

Update:

I am pretty far throught the rebiuld. I have already solved several problems. My gears a more properly aligned. Before i could feel the main gear get tighter and looser (not signifactly but noticable) as i turned it. I don't know what i did but taking the gears out and realigning them has goten them smooth as silk. Because I stripped her all the way down to the frame I was able to remove the engine mount that had a stripped screw. I cut the screw off and drilled it out. Because of that i was able to more properly align the clutch with the clutch bell. I also found that the factory had installed one extra spacer between the dampers and blade grip. This caused the blade grips to be very tight when moved. I removed the extra spacers and now the grips are smooth as silk. I bet that was causing an extra work load on my eletrical system. I hope it will also make the collective move smoother. Before it felt kind of sticky in the air. I am assuming it was from the tight blade grips. All in all, I CANT wait to fly this bird again. I am confident that rebiulding this thing will make it fly alot smoother. Just got to wait on those parts

Also, the DX-7 will finally alow me to run variable speeds on the gov. What HS should i run in normal, and idle 1. Idle 2 i will run 2000.

12-16-2007 12:33 AM

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Gohbee Aviation Stinger 30-90 > Alignment of flybar paddles

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