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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Feigao Re-wire required ==> Instructions added
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

One of the wires that go into my feigao DD tail motor has worn through the insulation and broken the wire (the casing is sharp in this area).

Does anyone know how I can open up the motor casing and re-wire the motor leads?

Thanks!
08-29-2007 02:55 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

I e-mailed Feigao and recieved a response within minutes.

Motor end bell is now off. I just have to solder on new wires and I'll be good to go...

VERY HAPPY with the service I received from Feigao.
08-30-2007 02:19 AM
 
 
futuramille
Veteran
Location: SC USA

Had the same senario with my first motor after dozens of crashes and over 150 hours. It was not as easy as they mentioned. for $35 I just replaced and put the bad one in the bits box. hope you have better luck and skill than I. stuff in that can is tight! wishin all the best, hope you get it...truly!

If you pull it off, please reply with tool tips and pointers.

thx



------------------------------
.....I need more batteries!!!
08-30-2007 03:14 AM
 
 
Micro-Maniac
Elite Veteran
Location: Pasco,Washington Formerly: Captain Chaos

I think the wiring is coated and that you'll have to scrape the coating off before it'll solder - I believe the ends of the wires come pre-tinned for soldering to connections and that this is the reason
08-30-2007 07:13 PM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

The wires that come out of the housing are the ends of the actual windings - so they are coated.

I will submit some photos of my repair as I progress.
08-31-2007 12:10 AM
 
 
tutelar-rcVeteran - Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada -
How to Repair the Broken Wire Lead

This photo shows the location of the broken wire. The edge of the motor housing rubbed through the insulation and caused the wire to break – this is normally caused by a poorly balanced tail or bent shaft extension.



Removing the End Cap

The key to removing the end cap, is to establish a method to push the shaft straight back, so the shaft does not become bent.

I modified my pinion puller by drilling two holes in the main housing as shown.



Notice that I made the right hole into a short slot to accommodate the slight difference between my hole-to-hole center and the motor screw holes.

Screw the motor onto the pinion puller and assemble the pinion puller.



Note: I cut off all wire leads at the point where they enter the motor housing
– DO NOT DO THIS! Leave as much wire on the motor as possible. Working inside the motor housing to solder the remains of the wire is difficult.

My recommendations:
  1. Only repair / replace the wire lead that is broken – leave the other wires intact.
  2. Remove the insulation from the wire to allow the wire length to be as long as possible.


A couple of turns will pop the end bell off the motor housing. This requires very little force.



The motor housing is now open providing access to the wire leads.



Soldering on New Leads

As noted above, it is quite difficult to work inside the motor housing to solder on new leads. Only replace the lead(s) that are broken.

There are 2 winding wires that extend out the end of the motor to become the motor leads. When you solder on the new leads, make sure you connect to both of these wires.

I re-used the wire leads that I previously cut off, to solder back onto the winding wires.



Hints to get a good solder connection:
  1. the winding wires are coated, so the coating must be removed – I used a small piece of sand paper to scrape the ends of the wires
  2. I then used tweezers to gently twist the 2 wires together – too much force, and you will break a wire
  3. use a small amount of solder paste and a small electronics soldering iron to “tin” the wire leads
  4. when both the winding wires and the new leads are “tinned”, put the wires together and use the heat of the soldering iron to join the wires together
  5. you do not need a lot of solder for a good joint


Finishing Up

Use heat shrink tubing to insulate the leads. Make sure that the heat shrink tubing goes all the way over the solder joint, butting right up against the motor windings. This will ensure you do not get an electrical short.

Place the end bell back on the motor housing and press back into place. I used a small block of wood with a hole drilled in it for the motor shaft to go through. I then pressed it on in my vice – again, only a small amount of force is required.



The finished repair, just waiting for the tie-wrap around the motor to hold the wire leads in place.

Improvements

To reduce the risk of the insulation wearing off and the wire breaking, I suggest that you:
  1. use a small amount of silicone around the wire leads where they exit the motor housing,
  2. tie-wrap the wires around the motor housing to reduce movement of the wire leads
09-08-2007 04:50 PM
 
 
futuramille
Veteran
Location: SC USA

Outstanding post. Well done and well illustrated. Nice....thank you!

Looks like getting the end cap off was the catchy part. Your solution was ingenious and resourceful as well. I take it the pinion puller is still able to perform its intended purpose.

<hat off>
<deep genuflect>



------------------------------
.....I need more batteries!!!
09-08-2007 05:13 PM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

Pinion puller is unaffected for pulling pinions...
09-08-2007 05:17 PM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

BTW: my repaired motor is still going strong - with frequent crashes.

I didn't think it would hold up so well (I already have the new replacement sitting on the shelf waiting for this one to die).

Happy, happy, happy. Sometimes, I amaze even myself on how well a cobbled-up repair works!
05-06-2008 03:47 PM
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

I had my feigao brake right at the fwd cap. The first time there was no damage. and I glued it back together. The second time, I destroyed the bearing in the cap. I was ready to throw the little motor to the curb, but I noticed the bearing is the same as the Cp main shaft. I ground the old bearing out with a dremel and pressed a new one in. I also lost the bushing that slides on the end of each shaft. I used the bushing from a blade grip. This was a little shorter than the original, so there is a little play fore and aft, but not much. Been working like champ ever since.

05-09-2008 03:15 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

Wow. Didn't know they came apart there. Thanks for posting the bearing replacement options.

Did you consider putting in a head shim washer to take up the slop?
05-09-2008 12:51 PM
 
 
irush
Senior Heliman
Location: Greensboro, NC

Damm! No I had not. But, that is a real good idea. I don't think I am not going to crack it back open till the next smack up

flying is simple, electronics is hard
05-10-2008 01:50 AM
 
 
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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Feigao Re-wire required ==> Instructions added
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