lsnover Senior Heliman Location: Bath, PA
| Well,
I completed a complete head and shaft rebuild last night. Reprogrammed the CC10 Controller per the article in May RC Heli.
I will be putting the CF Blades on and fireing it up tonight. I'm sticking with the 9 tooth pinion. I'm hoping it was just the settings on the CC10 that caused the problem. I changed the timing to slow, and the voltage cutoff to soft (it was hard).
I put a GWS Direct drive tail on last night as well. Anxious to see how it performs.
FYI, those "Cold Soldering" units that run off 4 AA batteries are GREAT for working on these little helis. Radio Shack sells them for 19.99. I'm always dubious about things sold on late night TV, but this thing really works well.
The motor itself is not vibrating. Runs smooth. However, I noticed two things.
1. The basic plastic frame is very "springy" towards the front, not stiff at all. It's actually "designed" that way from looking at the way the frame is molded. This would seem to potentially cause the motor to change its mesh if there were vibrations.
2. The HDX300 motor seems to take a good blip on the throttle to get moving. It's very "notchy". It will sit there semi-stalled if you do not "spike it" to start. May be better with some mass, as this was off the heli. I would imagine this would just be an issue at startup, but it could be causing an initial spike in battery load. I would recommend what the guys do on the big REXES, and give the blades a spin, just before throttleing up.
I'll let you all know how it goes on the test flight tonight.
Thanks for your help.
Regards, Lee |