NYAmpDude
Heliman
Location: Babylon New York
| Beefcake,
Thanks . .! since the receiver is mounted behind
the rotor head, I'll usually put a small loop of slack
under the foam covering the receiver. Then the wire runs
down the left side frame though a pcs of (that weird glo
fuel stuff called ) fuel tubing, I tie wrap it to the
frame around the tubing--I think this can be seen from
the photo. So the rubber band is pulling the wire against
the fuel tubing, and then the full lenght back to the
tail. I've been setting almost all my machines -- most
using PPM receivers -- up this way for a while now and
as far as I can see its been the most interferance free
way to go. Don't think you could get it any further from
all the noisy electronic stuff.
On the paint, the stuff is really great, Krylon Fusion.
No primer needed. Just sand the surface with some 320
grit, Clean with alcohol. Spray as follows. 1. A quick
mist coat very light, enough to just show a mist on the
surface -- let this stand for about 3 minutes, this sets
up a good tackey surface so the later coats don't run.
2 . Next is a good full coat moving the can slow enough so the
surface clearly looks wet. Again wait 3-5 minutes .
3. Repeat 2. with another similer coat. Finally watch the
surface after 5 mins, bringing us to 4. If you can still see
abrasion marks from the sand paper spray a final full coat.
I have found that this is about right. too little paint and
the sanded surface shows through, too much an you'll get orange
peel effect.
After about 6 days the stuff is fairly hard but not solvent
proof. You'll have to clear coat it if you'll need that.
As far a adhesion I can tell you last Year I put my Logo 14
( see "show us you pics post" in mikado ) nose first into
the ground which banged up the canopy real good but the paint
was like part of the plastic, no chipping at all.
Best Regards
Barry
The ground came up and hit me !!! |
