MJA
Key Veteran
Location: Cumbria-UK
| Marc,
How much cyclic to apply:
To start with use the lot,but do it up high. Also don't move the collective while you do it, in case the heli has any nasty pitching habits when lots of cyclic is used with too much collective movement at the same time
but to get the least rpm loss during the roll
The least you can get away with that still gives a good roll rate ,but also you don't want so little that the heli spends all day getting back around a half roll as the longer the heli is on knife edge the more the stored rpm will decay.
If you have a hot setup as opposed to an FAI type (heavier ) setup on the flybar, then probably half your available stick,but the effectiveness is linked to the rpm on the rotor head at the time.If the rpm has really dropped off and you panic then apply full cyclic to get the heli to half roll quicker it can have the opposite effect,the drag from the high deflection slows the blades even more.It's very much a fly ,try and experiment thing.
Definately tighten your blades up.The decision wether to abort or go for it can be a difficult one,you'll have to use your own judgement.If it's left really late ,perhaps only 10 or 15 feet after upright it is often too late to abort.If you have a motor that has a sluggish pickup (set rich) from idle to mid rpm the heli might still hit the deck anyway while you're waiting for the engine power to come back in.
If you have the height and don't like how it's looking rotor rpm wise always abort when you can,you can have a lot more goes that way but if you go for it and smack the boom and blades just once ,it tends to cut short the practise for that day
If you need to abort into idle up,go to 0 degrees and 50% power first if you have the time,which will give the engine a chance to pickup faster and lessen the load when the engine tries to suddenly drive the blades from nearly stopped ie less likely to fold back in the grips and easier on the clutch/drivetrain |
