rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 684 ONLINE 28 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
1 page1191 viewsPOST REPLY
Model Rectifier Corp . RCHover . RC-Direct

.
.
e-Lite Machines Corona > Swashplate Ball-Links tight
 
 
GeorgeP
Heliman
Location: St.Paul, Minnesota

Ok, I'm building a 120M and am up to page 7-3 where I'm putting the Ball-Links (that are connected to the Fore/aft Control Arm) on the Swashplate... They are too Tight. The Ball-Links were a binding fit on the plastic balls of the Swashplate. I did try slightly sanding down the balls and that improved things a bit, but they are still a "drag" fit. Checking the links with one of the metal balls, they are a nice loose fit. I did try the suggestion on page 7-3 to squeese the link with a pliers while the metal ball is installed. This did help a bit, but not enough, still a drag fit.

So, the links on a metal ball are a hanging loose fit, but when they are snapped on the plastic balls of the swash plate they are still a "Drag" fit.

What To Do? Keep one sanding the plastic balls?

Thanks for any suggestions, and YES, I am having fun!

George
12-04-2006 Over year old.
 
 
computerbob
Senior Heliman
Location: Westchester County, New York

George,

I've just looked at my old 120 swash and push rods and the links are rather tight on the balls, yet I had no problems flying. Why not give them a try as is. Is there a lot of flashing on the plastic balls? I wouldn't sand too much off the ball just in case you later find LMH links with looser tolerance. Maybe heat the plastic link in boiling water for a few seconds then work them around. However, I think you are OK with the swash links as is.

-Bob-
12-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
GeorgeP
Heliman
Location: St.Paul, Minnesota

Bob.... tnx for the reply.

No, there is no flashing (now) on the plastic balls. I'm going to let it go for now and see how it flies come spring as you suggest. When building the head they stress no binding, yet here they use the plastic balls and they were tighter than heck when I first put them on. Now after the sanding and polishing the fit is a slight drag, not the loose fit of the metal balls.

Anyhow, on the the tail boom and rotor. :-)

We're Havin Fun Now!!

tnx agn
George
12-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
vermontelectric
Heliman
Location: Vermont, USA

This is very common with all helis. Tight links are not good. Aside from slowing response, they cause unecessary strain on the servos and use more power from the battery.A properly working ball link arm will drop under it's own weight yet not slip off the ball easily.I hope you're not sanding the balls. It's better to leave them alone and size the links. Manufacturing tolerances with small plastic parts being what it is, I would try several different links and look for one that is looser. Another good investment is to purchase a ball link reamer tool or make your own. Take a spare ball link and create a burr on each side of it with a pair of wire cutters or something like that. Mount it firmly so it doesn't slip on the end of a dowel. Insert it in the tight ball and make only one turn. Test and repeat until the link swings freely on the ball. Some folks also put a very small amount of teflon lubricant on the balls so they move better.

Steve Roberts
12-07-2006 Over year old.
 
 
GeorgeP
Heliman
Location: St.Paul, Minnesota

Steve... tnx for the reply

Yes I have sanded slightly on the plastic balls. It's a odd thing, the plastic balls are a bit smaller than the metal ones since I sanded them (4.71mm vs 4.75mm) yet the plastic is a drag fit and the metal are a loose fit as you say they should be. I'm thinking that the plastic balls on the swashplate are rounder (fatter) than the metal balls used elsewhere and that may be why they fit snugger. I can't measure them from the side so I have no way of proving this one way or the other.

I may try making a reaming tool or the Teflon lube also sounds like a good suggestion. I'm not going to mess with the ball side any more, too expensive to replace that.

tnx
George
12-08-2006 Over year old.
 
 
computerbob
Senior Heliman
Location: Westchester County, New York

The two halves of the mold for the swash meet in the center of the balls, thus they are indeed flatter. Just a suggestion if all else fails: Cut off the plastic balls and replaced them with LMH's 3/16 metal balls. You can use 2-56 screws that will self tap into the plastic swash if you drill the pilot hole smaller.

-Bob-
12-08-2006 Over year old.
 
 
vermontelectric
Heliman
Location: Vermont, USA

Yes...metal balls...that's the ticket!

Steve Roberts
12-09-2006 Over year old.
 
 
1 page1191 viewsPOST REPLY
HeliDirect . 3D Heli Depot . JR-Spektrum

.
.
e-Lite Machines Corona > Swashplate Ball-Links tight
  UPDATE SCREEN   PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Tuesday, October 7 - 5:23 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie