d_wheel
Veteran
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas.
| Raptor head flipHello Buzzin,
Although a picture is worth a thousand words (and the ones from ColeopTer are great), it looks like there may be few points that are not obvious. Here's a step by step for doing the job.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Flipping the Raptor head.
(Before starting, measure and write down your pitch settings.)
1) Remove the head bolt (Page 12, No. 1).
2) Pop the oval links Page (11, No. 25) and mixing rods (Page 12 top, No. 4) loose at the bottom.
3) Pop the wash out links (Page 7, bottom, No. 8) off of the swash and remove the wash out subassembly. The links will have to be modified slightly. If you look closely, you will see they are beveled inside the “y” on one side. Use a file or sharp knife and remove enough material to match this bevel on the opposite side.
4) Turn the wash out subassembly over, and slide it back on the shaft. Pop the wash out links back on, push the swash all the way up and tilt it to it’s full left/right/fore/aft position making sure the wash out links do not bind against the arms (Page 7 bottom, No. 7). If they do, remove more material as noted above. When everything is working freely, pop the wash out links and oval links back on.
5) Remove the lock nuts from the feathering shaft (Page 11, No. 27), pop both double links (Page 11, No. 26) completely off, and remove the blade grips. Rotate the grips 180 degrees and reinstall the grips and lock nuts.
6) Modify both double links as follows. Remove a link from one end of each and replace with a standard length ball link. In every case I have tried, these needed to be installed with CA glue as the new links were a little loose on the threads. After modification, pop one end back on the blade grips.
7) Loosen the flybar control rod set screws (Page 11, No 4), rotate the control rods 180 degrees, and re-tighten the set screws. Since these are now not on the flat area of the rod, you will have to be careful to keep the arms and paddles aligned while tightening.
8) Remove both mixing levers (Page 11, No. 22), flip over 180 degrees, and re-attach to the opposite end of the flybar seesaw hub (Page 11, No. 21). Don’t forget the loctite. Pop the double links and long linkage rods back on.
9) Install the head on your Raptor and re-attach the wash out links and long linkage rods to the swash.
10) Reverse the direction of the collective servo.
After double checking that everything is tight and installed correctly, you are ready to re-do your pitch settings and fly.
-----------------------------------------------
As a side note, the extended blade grip balls shown in the pictures are not addressed in my procedure, and probably are not necessary if you decide to perform the flip. I have tried these and found them to work by themselves (without the flip) for stopping woof, so doing both would be overkill (IMHO).
The best cure for woof is good blades. I have been using SAB's for over a year on stock heads without any problems at all.
Later;
D.W. |
-.jpg)
I afraid I dont get that part. Do you mean the flybar control arms or something? If so I will be useing the aluminum stabalizer set from TT. So how would this be done with that? I am assuming that you mean to put the seesaw arms on backwards as opposed to how it is done in the manual. Please explain.
