DarkHorse1
Senior Heliman
Location: Gloucester UK
| I think you mean www.ms-helituning.com
All the ball links seem quite tight when new, ideally you want a good fit without slop and as drag free as possible. The flybar should be easy to move and get very easy to move after quite a few flights. If you over tighten and pinch up the beller hiller M2 mixer arm bolts the flybar will be ridged, just back up a 1/4 turn.
The blade grip bolts in the head tend to loosen if you don't use some kind of thread lock. It is important to spot the odd bad tracking characteristics that occur just before one blade lets go with a 150+ mph tip speed  . Be careful.
I also accidentally got thread lock in my blade grip bearings and they will never free spin smooth again.
> rubbing against the blade grips
Same here, the metal grip pitch arms are a couple of mm too big. The stock plastic parts fitted perectly. It might slow the roll rate a little in a full flip move but otherwise ok, the swash links seem to just twist around with out issue. Your picture looks fine once you get the servos in place.
Make sure the head damping is working evenly and pretty stiff so as to avoid boom strikes and flapping later.
Hacker B20-22S 4091 rpm/v would work with a 12T or 13T pinion (targets 3000 rpm at 11.1v), MS uses 64 pitch/mod0.4 gears.
> some good videos on setting up a Hornet?
There arn't any sorry. More info and links on my tips page.
Hornet X 3D Twister(Axi 2208/20, Tsunami)27T/180T ~2900 rpm, MS-116 ESC,
MS-044 gyro, HS-50 tail, 3x Futaba 3108s, KOK Extréme white blades,
3xTP1320 prolites ~15mins (cruising), AUW=363g. Futaba7C (see video)
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