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Futaba-RC . A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings

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CAD - Engineering - Technical > Hardening of metals
 
 
Creep
Heliman
Location: Pretoria , South Africa

Greetings,

I need to silver-solder a bearing collar onto a pinion gear....for a 90 size heli.

Is there anybody with any advice regarding hardening ...should I quench it in water or oil ?.
I am not too sure how hard a pinion really should be. I should imagine not too hard as it would be very brittle.

Thanks,
Trevor.

Da Creep !!
06-04-2006 Over year old.
 
 
TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

Silver soldering and hardening are two distinctly different things.

TM
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
busted blade
Senior Heliman
Location: orlando,florida

unless you know exactly what the composition is of the material, you cant effectively alter its properties. if the metal pinion (im assuming steel) is running against a plastic main gear i wouldnt bother trying to make the pinion harder. what does bother me is the soldering. the pinion to shaft relationship is highly stressed. i dont think the solder will be reliable. i have been designing, engineering, and using metal related components (machining,fabricating,etc.) for 25 years.we can probably come up with a better solution.if your really in a pinch send it to me and ill make it right

bling bling, cha ching......... but honey
06-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Creep
Heliman
Location: Pretoria , South Africa

@ TM

Thanks for the reply...I realize that . It is just that by heating the pinion (if it is hardened)..surely I will be annealing it and it would have to be tempered in some way again.

@ Busted Blade

Also thanks for your reply ...and the generous offer. I am talking silver-solder here, not normal solder. My problem is the bearing collars start to slip on the pinion and just wears them away. I have tried to use 501 grade loctite, but it doesn't hold for very long. It is meant to be size fit and pressed on ... but is not machined that well.

Thanks again for the input.
Trevor.

Da Creep !!
06-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

I've got it. The gear has the root of the tooth machined into the bearing journal OD so it's wearing out right where it fits into the ID of the bearing.

For one thing, silver soldering isn't an option here. It won't hold. You would be better off using something like Loctite 290 or sleeving the gear and then pressing it into the bearing ID.

The Bearings are 52100 BB steel and are way harder than the pinion and eventually wear out the pinion at the journal.

TM
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Uplink Tom
Senior Heliman
Location: Boyertown PA

it'll work

I've been silver brazing for years.

from some website:


Note: While modern U.S. usage calls the use of these alloys silver brazing, obsolete U.S. works and many current British sources often use the terms silver soldering or hard soldering to describe the same process. This is a source of continuing confusion, since silver solder is a term also used to describe much weaker alloys used at low temperatures for plumbing work. To avoid confusion, try to refer to an alloy's composition, standardized classification, or melting and flowing temperatures. When in doubt, seek clarification.

Common silver brazing alloys contain as much as 60% silver or as little as 20%, with the remainder made up of metals including copper, zinc, nickel, and tin. Silver brazing alloys melt at temperatures as low as 1145F, greatly reducing the impact on heat treatment of bicycle tubing. There is still a heat affected zone near the joint, but the butting of the tubing provides more material here to make up for its reduced strength. Away from the joint, the lower joint temperature means less heat travels along the tubing, and the heat treatment remains effective. The skill of the brazer also plays an important role in reducing heat damage, since the longer a joint is heated, the more heat is available to damage surrounding material.

Often, silver brazing alloys also include cadmium, a poisonous metal with deadly fumes. Cadmium lowers the brazing temperature and improves handling characteristics slightly, but should only be used by expert workers with commercial grade ventilation equipment. Using it at home in your garage is asking for trouble, so if you want to do silver brazing, look for cadmium-free alloys. All the major manufacturers of silver brazing alloys produce cadmium free fillers.

Silver is also the filler of choice for brazing stainless steels. Most brass fillers will not wet the surface of stainless, and if they do they will produce low-quality joints. Brazing stainless steel takes more practice than brazing ordinary steels, and in some cases special filler alloys are needed to prevent corrosion between the filler metal and the base metal. A small amount of nickel is added to the filler alloy to prevent this sort of corrosion, which can otherwise cause rapid failure of joints continuously or repeatedly exposed to water.

While each manufacturer has its own trade names for its alloys, most alloys sold in the U.S. conform to one of a number of specifications established by the American Welding Society (AWS). A common cadmium-free alloy used in bicycle work is AWS No. BAg-7, which has the same characteristics whether sold as Safety-Silv 56, All State 155, or Silvaloy 355. The alloy is 55 to 57 percent silver, 21 to 23 percent copper, 15 to 19 percent zinc, and 4.5 to 5.5 percent tin.

Nickel Silver Brazing
One final class of brazing filler that should be mentioned is nickel silver alloy. Despite the name, this is not a silver alloy at all, but mainly nickel and copper. It has a much higher melting point than genuine silver alloys, and should not be used on heat treated tubing.

On the other hand, nickel silver is stronger than brass filler, often much stronger, and some nickel silvers will work well on some alloys of stainless steel. All State specifically recommends one of its nickel silver alloys, No. 11, for brazing bicycle frames, and this alloy does make strong, reliable frame joints. According to his Manual, this is Tim Paterek's preferred fillet brazing alloy, too. It has a very wide working range, from 1200 F to 1750 F, and a tensile strength of up to 85,000 psi.

Heli's just mock me then crash.....C5, C30, B400, Q50, 9C
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

OK, I've been brazing for years and I would like to see a pinion silver soldered to the inner race of a 52100 bearing and still get it to rotate smoothly.

Are you going to use an induction brazer or a torch?

TM
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Creep
Heliman
Location: Pretoria , South Africa

Hi TM,

Sorry if I did not explain properly.

I want to silver solder a collar to the pinion ...not the pinion to the bearing. The collar then fits into the bearing. This collar is press fitted at the moment and comes loose on the pinion ...possibly due to heat or maybe just a bad fit. I have removed the collar (very easily)and tried loctite( green #501 as it is known here), but it still comes loose and the pinion then wears the collar.

Thanks for all your replies...I hope this has cleared the problem up .

Trevor.

Da Creep !!
06-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

My suggestion would be to machine the sleeve (collar) so that it is a shrink fit over the pinion shaft. Years ago when I fixed the Futura drive pinions this was the way that I did it.

By machining a sleeve so that it has to be heated up and then shrunk over the shaft, makes for a permanent fix rather than using anerobic adhesives that aren't suited for the job. If you want to use silver solder you can on this and I wouldn't really worry about annealing the pinion. Silver soldering won't get anywhere near the annealing temps required for steel unless you overheat the base material.

TM
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Creep
Heliman
Location: Pretoria , South Africa

Hi TM,

Thanks for your sharing your thoughts. Makes perfect sense. The easier way for me to do this would be the soldering route.

So....heat both surfaces to cherry red should be OK?.

Thanks,
Trevor.

Da Creep !!
06-05-2006 Over year old.
 
 
TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

I don't think you need to get them that hot to silver solder. Are we talking about brazing or silver soldering?

TM
06-05-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
R.J.
Senior Heliman
Location: SF bay area, CA USA

I would vote with TM on this. Best to machine a better fitting collar.

I would think Cherry Red (1650F) is too hot for silver solder. Stay Brite silver solder melts at 430F. Most silver solder melts at 1250F to 1350F which would be Dark Red at most.

Scale will start to form around temperature of Cherry Red and will make you wish you didn't heat your pinion so hot because it will be ugly when you're done.
06-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Creep
Heliman
Location: Pretoria , South Africa

Thanks for the input....I am a lot wiser.

I am sure the intention was that it was meant to be a good fit on the pinion...probably just bad machining.On the second pinion I purchased I tried to loosen it just with my hands ...and couldnt it seemed pretty tight......only lasted a couple of flights before it worked itself loose.

Mine is not the only one to work itself loose though...I know of at least another two.
Anyway ...like I said I will silver solder it together and will let you know if it holds.

Thanks,
Trevor.

Da Creep !!
06-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
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CAD - Engineering - Technical > Hardening of metals
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