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GrandRC . CanoMod . Futaba-RC

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e-Electric Batteries & Chargers > No voltage cutoff on helis like my Blade CP - Cheap DIY alarm
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

I put together a fairly simple circuit that sounds a buzzer when the voltage gets too low on my CP. Now I can fly without fear of ruining the LiPo battery. It starts to whine when the voltage gets close to 9V, giving me time to land it. It's just four resistors, two transistors, and a buzzer. It cost me nothing to build, but if you had to buy everything at RS, including a soldering iron, it'd be less than 20 bucks.

Obviously, if you do something wrong and your battery, helicopter, or self explodes as a result, it's not my fault. It really is easy but you shouldn't attempt it if you've never soldered a motor on before. I'd be happy to answer any questions if anyone needs help building one.

If you're good at soldering you can fit the whole thing in no more space than the buzzer itself requires. But don't just throw it together and fly; read the instructions first because you have to calibrate it.



The circuit goes in parallel with the 4-in-1 (or whatever your receiver is). Not in series. Vout and GND represent where the radio would go. You could optionally shrink it right on to your battery, as it's cheap. But don't let it get extremely hot, as it will cause the setpoint to drift.


The transistors are 2N2222's or any NPN Si transistor you have lying around. The buzzer is a 12V piezo buzzer. Make sure that you pick a true buzzer, and not a transducer, as the latter requires a driver circuit. If there is any doubt, just connect it to a battery. If it beeps, you're in business.

If you want, you can put a hi-brightness LED in series with the buzzer for a visual warning.

Don't forget to do this! You have to pick R2 and R3 to select the point at which you want the buzzer to come on. On mine, it just happened that it beeps at exactly 9.5V, but depending on the transistors, buzzer, and whether it was Friday at the resistor factory, you will certainly have to do some experimentation to find the right crossover point. If you want it to beep at a higher voltage, make R3 bigger or R2 smaller. Do the reverse to select a lower voltage. 9V is the extreme bare not-guaranteed-to-save-the-battery-anyway minimum.

You can ignore VAm1 and VAm2; they're in there so I could check the power requirements. The whole thing uses only about 10mA when the buzzer's off, so it won't shorten battery life. You can also ignore the ground symbol; it's necessary to prevent error messages in my software.

-fox
05-22-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

Here's what it looks like before potting if anybody's interested.



-fox
05-23-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

hey, I really want to build this, can you dumb it down for someone like me. I can solder it no problem, but I can't read the schematic.
05-26-2006 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

I'd be happy to do a writeup with instructions. It'll take me a day or two but I'll put it up here when I can. Thanks for the interest.

Rob_T gave me some info on the temperature drift, too, so I'd like to test mine and make sure it's safe for the battery on a hot day. It looks like flying in cold weather is not a problem. I'll add anything I find to the writeup.

-fox
05-26-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

cool, that will be excellent, if you happen to be able to get it up before the end of the weekend, that would be awesome as I'll build it this weekend. But whenever will be fantastic.
05-26-2006 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

Okay, please be wary of mistakes. I think this is correct though:

http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/ftp/fox-buzzer.pdf

You can also use this schematic, it's a little cleaner, and those tiny green dots were almost impossible to see:

http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/ftp/fox-schematic.png

I'd like to write some more complete instructions but I'm getting ready to go on a trip, so I won't be around this weekend. I'll hopefully get back to it in the near future.

2k and 200 ohms are unusual values for resistors. I used a 2.2k for R2, and 220 ohm for R3. That makes my alarm come on at 10V. Some people like the alarm to come on earlier than that. If you want a higher voltage, make R3 larger. It's a good idea to breadboard this circuit first and make sure that it's activating at the right voltage. Then you can go to the trouble of assembling it.

Again, I haven't tested the effect of temperature on the set point, but on a hot day, it should come on about a quarter of a volt later. The difference should not be so dramatic that your battery will be destroyed if you fly in the middle of august.

If anybody spots any problems with the instructions, please let me know so I can fix it. Good luck!

-fox
05-27-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

instructions look great, don't know if anyone can answer but can I use a potentiometer in place of the 220 ohm resistor.
05-27-2006 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

Absolutely. You can in fact replace both R2 and R3 with a pot by wiring one end to +, the other to -, and the center wiper to R1. You should probably use about a 5k linear pot for best results.

BTW: there is at least one typo. Step 5 should say "to the collector of Q2."

-fox
05-27-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

yea, I caught the typo, directions are well layed out, appreciate that, don't really understand the part about the potentiometer and how to replace the resistors but I got a call into my friend and he's an electrical engineer so hopefully he can explain it to me.
05-27-2006 Over year old.
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

okay, got it all soldered. The wires to the battery/ESC can be real thin right or do they need to be thick? I used servo wire for the positive and negative off the device, will that work? I haven't put on the buzzer because I want to use LED's instead. I got two 5000 mcd led's from Rat shack but they are 2.4 volts 20ma so I need to use a resistor or something so they don't pop. I have no idea what type though. My friend is supposed to figure it out for me but if anyone knows, let me know.

Thanks
06-03-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Cameron
Veteran
Location: St. Johns, Florida

Im doing this thing for sure. Hey, what program did you use to create the PDF? Thanks, Cameron
06-06-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
coolice
Key Veteran
Location: Northamptonshire, England

Hey,

If someone can post instructions & parts list to make a 6 cell version I'd be grateful

Have made 3 cell ones in the past from plans and know a little about electronics, but not enough to work out whats needed for 18volt detection.
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Ian Contessa
Align Robbe SchluterUK Sponsored Flier
06-07-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

Well I finished it and it works, I didn't use a buzzer though, two led's instead. I'm gonna try the potting thing with silicone, I hope silicone is okay to use.
06-09-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Cameron
Veteran
Location: St. Johns, Florida

I did mine with the buzzer. Its not really loud, well not as loud as I expected so I think I am gonna do a Led one. Or one with an LED and buzzer. I potted mine with some 5 min epoxy
06-09-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

unfortunately I didn't have the expoxy, I hope the silicone holds up, maybe I"ll add some epoxy too if I find some. The LED's worked okay I don't know if they will be bright enough outside though.
06-09-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Cameron
Veteran
Location: St. Johns, Florida

I would think Silicone would be fine. Its parallel with the battery, right? So I can just buy another connector and just add itto the circuit
06-09-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

silicone isn't working, I may try some goop tonight. the leds need a resistor so they don't pop unless you find some high voltage ones.
06-09-2006 Over year old.
 
 
efliernz
Senior Heliman
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand

This is the one I build (and sell to those who don't have time....)

90dB peizo and 3 ultrabright (16000mcd) red LEDs. Adjustable from 9.4 to 13.5v to suit 3 and 4 S with a trimpot. No more guessing about resister tolerences. Now running on 20 Trex's in 5 countries

Any queries, just PM me - more details in my gallery. If you can build your own - go for it. Very cheap insurance for your batteries and heli.



Pete, Trex500, Trex600E, Streched 600, DSX9, DX7, Low-volt alarms - check the gallery for my alarms
06-13-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

Quote 
No more guessing about resister tolerences.


You just have to guess at the right pot setting.

-fox
06-16-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
robl45
Key Veteran
Location: Deerfield Beach, FL

well I just followed the directions from stickyfox and used the resistors he suggested, we shall see how it works in flight. I just soldered it into the controller and plan to try it tomorrow morning. I used led's instead ofa buzzer so I hope I can see them during the day.
06-17-2006 Over year old.
 
 
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e-Electric Batteries & Chargers > No voltage cutoff on helis like my Blade CP - Cheap DIY alarm
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