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Bergen R/C Helicopters > clutch & pinion & engine questions
 
 
jdewer
Heliman
Location: Belgium

Hello All,

Quick questions first, explanations later :

Intrepid EB, 260PUH, 810 mm V-blades.

1° What pinion-option is best for a target headspeed of 1480 RPM ?
2° How many teeth does the main gear have ?
3° What would be the ideal RPM range for the 260PUH ?
4° Are the new mufflers in ?
5° Any beers left in the fridge ?

Problems : clutch overheating (again) and noise levels too high.

All input is welcome ! Especially cold beers for my fridge...

Kind Regards,

Jan Dewerchin.

oemèr, oeliver ! :-) Old flemish proverb.
05-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Pinion is a 12 tooth
main gear is a 90 tooth
gear ratio is 7.5:1
10-12000 RPM on the engine
Still waiting on mufflers
Drank all the beer last night, have to get more today....

Is this happening with no load being carried, or do you have some kind of underslung mount(what is the weight)?

Chris Bergen
05-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Gary Travis
Veteran
Location: Utah

Jan

I recently help someone that had a similar problem, he had set his headspeed to 1450 and all was good. He then attached his underslung mount. His issue was that when adding the weight of the mount and camera the load on the engine increased so he raised his throttle curve to try to get the headspeed back up. When adding the increased load it not only chaged the throttle curve , but also the needle settings.
Sett your needles and throttle curve with your mount and camera attached. On my camera EB camera ship I have everthing adjusted with the weight of the mount and camera attached and have not had a problem. This may be what you are going through
Gary

Bergen R/C Helicopters Duralite Batteries V-blades Magnum Fuels Wren Turbinesl
05-06-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
FLAP
Key Veteran
Location: Michigan

Jdewer,
If you have not gotten it yet, buy Gary Travis' video on setups. I had the same problem you have and completely eliminated it by setting up exactly as Gary describes. I was letting my two decades of 'I must know what I'm doing' get in the way. When I got rid of all my nitro type setup, and setup per video...all clutch problems went away. Just goes to shoe ya, you can teach and old dog new tricks...sometimes.
05-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
jdewer
Heliman
Location: Belgium

Thanks for the input, everyone.

My lovely wife has brought home the bare necessities to fill the fridge and so I can start looking for a solution for this.

I don't have a camera mount, nor heavy loads or anything.

The engine was running perfect before, BUT :

A couple of things are different than before.
1° Just recently I took the time to have the canopy painted and I had my first flights with it on.
2° The initial settings for the engine were done as per Gary's DVD, but : the temperature was a lot lower than now (lower 30s). The flight with the hot clutch was in lower 80s.

I've had a hot clutch before, due to to a too low headspeed and grease leaking from the bearing in the clutch. I cleaned the clutch liner, adjusted the headspeed, but apparently the clutch liner got hard due to the overheating.

I'm not sure that it's a good idea to try set the engine right again before I have the opportunity to look at the delrin inserts in the clutch. What do you think ?

Kind Regards,

Jan Dewerchin.

oemèr, oeliver ! :-) Old flemish proverb.
05-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Have you retuned the engine with the temperature changes?

Wouldn't hurt to look at the delrin bushings, but typically the main gear melts before the delrin bushings do, typically!!

The delrin bushings usually go due to a misalignment, engine to clutch.

Chris Bergen
05-06-2006 Over year old.
 
 
jdewer
Heliman
Location: Belgium

Hi Chris,

The main gear is fine. If it wears, it wears very even, so that alignment and mesh should be pretty good.
Now for the engine to clutch alignment : I think it's spot on but I have no means right now to really measure that. The feeler gauges are at a friend's house.

The engine needles haven't been readjusted. Do you think it would be best to start with the defaults Gary proposes in his DVD and redo the tuning from there ?

The reason why I asked more info on the pinion, main gear and engine RPM is to make sure that I have the right pinion option for the big 810's on the bird.

The pinion part number in the manual is 1307, the 14T pinion. The 12T pinion would be better ?

Jan Dewerchin.

oemèr, oeliver ! :-) Old flemish proverb.
05-07-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Physically count the teeth on YOUR pinion.

If your running 800-810mm blades it should be a 12 tooth pinion.

Are you using a governor?

With drastic temperature changes, you do need to retune the engine. Colder air is denser, as it warms up, there is less oxygen in a given amount of air (less dense), and the needles (fuel mixture) needs to be adjusted accordingly.

Feeler gauges are NOT necessary, visual alignment is good enough on the fan hub to clutch alignment.

Chris Bergen
05-07-2006 Over year old.
 
 
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